mudcatwilly

I have a 1990 Suzuki 85 hp 2 stroke strapped to the back of my 16-foot, 1975 Lund trihull. The motor runs well. I was looking at some magazine ads for those hydrofoil stabilizers that bolt on just above the prop. I guess they are supposed to increase your hole shot and eliminate porpoising (which my boat likes to do when too much weight is in the back). Do these things work like they say they work and if so, what is the best one out there?

Thanks Cart: The previous owner put in new deck carpeting. In your experience, do you think if I pull up the carpeting I will find a hatch that will let me see into the area between the deck and the hull? It's a '75 Lund tri-hull.

I have a 1975 tri-hull that I recently bought and noticed that after the first time I had it on the water, I pulled the drain plug and about a gallon of water came out. This is a 16-foot boat and I was on the water for maybe 4 hours. There are no obvious leaks in the hull that I can see. What I did notice was that the paint is worn beneath the front "points" of the hull and that you can see the fiberglass in the worn areas. Also, the previous owner sealed some hull penetrations with household caulk. First, how much bilge water is to be expected for a day of fishing and second, where is this water coming from?

In my first boat, a '75 Lund trifoil with a reel touchy throttle and no hydraulic steering, I had all kinds of fun trying to trailer the boat. I was in the CA Delta trying to drive the boat onto the trailer. The trailer had raised sideboards and I backed the trailer a little to deep into the water. There was a 20 mph cross wind and every time I tried to get the boat on the trailer, the wind blew me over the side board. I backed up and tried time after time, slamming the back of the boat into the launch pier while people on the pier stood and watched. After 5 or 6 tries, I finally threw a rope to my friend and we pulled it onto the trailer. I got a mock round of applause from the onlookers. An embarrasing moment, but I learned a lot about trailering in a cross wind that day.

I have a 1990 Suzuki DT 2-stroke (85 hp). Today when I took it out on the water, I would have the throttle set at maybe 3/4 full and all of a sudden, I would hear the motor rev and the boat would slow down. It was like all of a sudden, the gears weren't catching to spin the prop. I moved the shifter back and forth a bit, then the prop would catch and the boat would cruise fine. For what it's worth, on the way back from fishing, I set the throttle at 3/4 full again and it ran great. Has anyone had a similar experience with this type of motor and if so, what may be the cause? Also, the shifter is a bit touchy. In reverse especially, you can hear the teeth of the gears clack unless you really slam it into gear. It does it a little less so when you first shift to forward. Please help!

Tahoe Q4 fish/ski retails for about $22K with basic package. Nitro 189 Fish/ski is about the same, but with better fishing features. Of course, motor upgrades are going to get you into the $25-$27K range, but these are good boats. There are a ton of reputable fish/ski models on the market in about the $25k range. I have done extensive research on this because I have been lookig for the same thing. My top choice in that price range is the Nitro 189 FS

1975 Lund trifoil with a 2 stroke 85 HP Suzuki. With 2 guys onboard, I can get 42 mph, which is a little scary for a boat that doesn't corner well!

OK, so I just bought my first boat. A 1975, 16 foot Lund trifoil with a 1990 85hp Suzuki 2 stroke outboard. I'll be honest. I know how to operate a boat, but I don't know the first thing about outboard motors. I'm pretty handy and can figure stuff out pretty quickly, but I don't have a clue on how to properly maintain this motor. It runs well now and I want to keep it that way. I couldn't find much on the net on proper 2 stroke maintanence. My plan is to take it in once a year for a diagnostic checkup, but in between that time, what are some things that you guys do to keep your 2 strokes running strong? Any help would be appreciated since I know nothing now. If it helps, the carbs were recently rebuilt and it was given a new aluminum head. I have to mix fuel at 50:1 in the tank. By the way, what is the best 2 stroke oil to use? Thanks

Thanks for the replies guys. I ended up passing on the boat and buying another one. Instead, I bought a 16-foot, 1975 Lund trifoil with a 1990, 85 hp Suzuki 2-stroke. The guy fired the motor up and it sounded, well, like a Suzuki motorcycle, and loud. Sounded pretty good though. He recently installed new aluminum heads. The boat is much wider than the Larson and came equipped with 4 fold down seats and other fishing extras. My wifes a little nervous because the boat is a little ugly and has some cosmetic blemishes here and there. Otherwise, the hull is in good shape and the motor is running well. I would like to patch all the little screw holes in the interior fiberglass and fill in the interior gelcoat cracks and then repaint the boat. How hard is it to do that stuff, or should I take it into a boat repair place?

I am looking to buy this boat. It's a 1975 Larson 1500 Saber and has what I think is a mid-80's 50hp Merc outboard. Couple of questions. 1) Does anyone have or have had this kind of boat and if so, how do you rate it's overall performance? 2) The seller says that he just bought a new battery for it and that the carbs were overhauled last year and that the fuel pump is new. He said that it had been running fine, but when he recently tried to start it, he heard a clicking noise and couldn't get it to turn over. What might be the problem with the motor?

I have a 14-foot boat with a 25hp evinrude electric start 2 stroke motor with forward throttle and steering. It also has a 67-pound thrust trolling motor, a small live well, and a fish finder. How many batteries do I need and how do you suggest I wire them, meaning what components should I wire to each battery? I suppose I will need to get a charger. I don't even know if a two stroke motor (older model) has an alternator. This is my first powered boat and I need some advice.

I'm buying an older (early 80's) fiberglass trihull, 14-foot duck hunting/fishing jon boat witha 25-hp evinrude. It has controls from the front seat (the seat is in the center of the boat). On the right, it has an evinrude simplex throttle with two shifters. Just to the left of the seat, it has a stick that steers the motor. I have a few questions. 1) How old may this motor and control system be? The seller doesn't really know? 2) What do the two throttle levers control? 3) Has anyone ever controlled the steering with a stick and how difficult is it? 4) Can I convert the two lever throttle control to a single lever like a modern boat? 5) Can I convert the stick steering to a steering wheel and maybe build a little console for it?. This is my first boat and I am excited that I can control the boat from the front seat, but I don't know how difficult it will be to manuever in tight spaces when I have a stick in my left hand and two levers in my right hand. Oh, one more question. The boat has a 67-pound thrust trolling motor. That seems like overkill for a 14-foot boat. Can I effectively control a small boat with a trolling motor that powerful?

When I get skunked or catch one dink, I suck. When I catch 12 fish in an hour, I am great. You're going to have good days and bad days. As you learn how to locate fish, your good days will increase. Even still, you can be right on top of them and they won't bite. It doesn't mean you suck. I see it as the fish suck that day.

It's a feel thing. Jigs get bit in different ways, depending on how you fish them and what type of cover you're pulling them through. I've had them get pounded and at other times, I've felt a slight line twitch or a mushy feeling when pulling it through weeds. When in doubt, swing hard. You'll get the feel of it after awhile.

I'm in northern California, home of the lunker. I am fortunate enough to be within 2 hours of scores of lakes that produce big numbers and monsters. I am also 30 minutes from the California Delta, which is a bass mecca. In the spring, all of the lakes are great. In the summer, you head to the delta and have your choice of hundreds of miles of waterways to catch LMB and smallies. We also have the added bonus of great striper, salmon, halibut, and sturgeon fishing.

I am buying my first boat this weekend. It's a 14-foot fiberglass jon boat/hunting boat with an electric start 25 hp evinrude 2 stroke. It has a livewell, fishfinder, trolling motor, and even 2 360-degree swivel seats. It's like being 16 again and getting my driver's license. I am so fired up! I would sleep with it under my pillow at night if it would fit. Maybe I'll just sleep in it. Then again, if I use it too much, my wife may make me sleep in it anyway Look for me on the water. I'll be the one high-fiving myself!

What was your best fishing day? Maybe you had a 100 fish day. Maybe you caught your personal best. Maybe you caught 10 and 3 were over 8 pounds. Maybe it was the first time you caught a bass on a lure. I just wanted to get a sense from the salty veterans what you best fishing day was like.

I am considering purchasing a 14-foot fiberglass hull fishing/hunting boat. The best way that I can describe the hull shape is that if you look from the front, it kind of looks like two upside down "U's" going to a point in the center of the boat. Then the hull tapers to a fairly flat bottom. I don't exactly know what this hull shape is called. Has anyone ever had this type of boat and if so, did you find it more stable for moving around in than a curved bottom or Vee hull type small boat? From what I understand, the flatter bottom boats tend to plane well. This one has a 25hp 2 stroke.

Let's say I buy a jon boat with no motor. Also, lets assume that I get a non-tiller motor. How difficult is it to install a simple console, steering wheel, throttle lever, and wiring?

I am considering buying an aluminum jon boat and then buying a used motor separately. Let's say I get a 14 or 15-foot boat. What do you think is the largest motor that I can put on a boat that size. I want maximum power, but I want the thing to be stable. I have an opportunity to buy an envinrude 90hp, but I think that will be too heavy. Can I at least get away with a 50hp motor?

I have fished Lake Anza in Berkeley several times. I have gotten bit on 5-inch watermelon and red flake senkos, T-rigged with light bullet sinkers. I have also been bit using a brown/black 1/2 oz jig with an orange craw trailer. This lake is cooler than most lakes this time of year. I have had the most fish caught on the side of the lake opposite the spillway. Just fish that senko slow, hopping and twitching in the weeds. You will get bit. That lake is my little secret spot and there are some lunkers in there.

Zara Spooks and Poppers. That will get those jumpers.

Find where the thermocline intersects bottom structure. In my lake, thats at 30 to 35 feet. Deep points can be hot spots. Fish slow

I live in Vacaville, CA and am in need of a bass club. Can someone please point me in the right direction. I am getting tired of fishing by myself. Talking to myself while fishing is great, but I've already heard all of my own jokes

In northern CA, we've had sustained temps above 113 in some places with lake temps in the 83 degree range. The last report I read on my home lake is that the bass are nowhere to be found. This lake is deep, up to 240 feet. I know the bass are deep and hard to catch, but they still gotta eat. It has been miserable. The air is too hot, the water is too hot, and the bass are hiding and this is a huge lake. I'd like some insights from you big water bass anglers on how to target these deep and seemingly sluggish bass.