CJ

Sorry,forgot to read the rules.I don't use mono anymore.

Seaguar for flouro P-Line for co-polymer I voted other as well

Welcome to "THE" board! I like DD22 and DLN.Sometimes you will get one that needs tuning.

Bandit 100 Cotton Cordell(not sure of the model # but it's the smaller one) RC 2.5

Welcome von!

On my way to work(commercial construction site).When I got there one of the electricians had a TV.He made an antenna so we could get the news.Didn't get much done that day. Good point raul.

;DThanks for the laugh! ;D

Thank you,Matt-Fly!I agree with your post 100% and believe every bit of it.I don't doubt your or CATT's ability.Though I may dispute statments I read.Maybe it's how I read them?Maybe it's how they're wrote? On Ky.Lake current is the #1 factor as to how a fish relates to the structure,it also helps to determine their active status.This year we had the worst drought on record.Water generation was little.In the early 90's F&W killed off all of the vegetation on Ky.Lake.In the past 3 years it has made a great comeback!Ledges that were once loaded became empty.I'm not saying all of em'.Where I used to target rockpiles stumpbeds,and man-made brushpiles.I now target submerged vegetation. BTW,best of luck to you,Matt.I hope you get em'! Rolo,just glad to see any thread interest you enough to squeeze some of that knowledge!Great add!I've had better years results wise,but learning new techniques. Chris

Well me and Whittler use an Iwata HP-C.I don't think it is as important to buy a top shelf brush.An Iwata Eclipse is a great brush for the money.A good compressor is just as impoortant,I use an Iwata Smart Jet but there are many others that work just as well.If you are sure you want to get into painting cranks I would take a close look at what features the brush and compressor have.I would subgest a dual action brush.A single action works fine but you will be limited to it's use.Take a look at www.airbrush.com.You'll learn alot of basics there and alot about the equipment.Good Luck CJ

I like Rolo's:It's not about "who"is right,but"what"is right.

I didn't say it does't exsist,but I find it hard to believe. I guess every tournament you fish you simply run to that spot? Where do you draw the conclusion that a certain structure holds big fish 24-7,365 days? Maybe Toledo Bend is different,but on Ky.Lake schools of big fish will and do migrate.I have drawn this conclusion from "on-water experience".Sure there are structure that is known for dinks and structure that is known to hold toads.There is structure that renders big bass for consecutive years,but they all play out at sometime.If mother nature doesn't cause it,then man will.

CATT,you sure do alot of assuming!How do you know what kind of structure I fish.It's not prime because I don't anchor on it?BS!I may not have been fishing for 35 years but I'm still no idiot.You don't have to define prime structure and I've never seen any that has big fish on it 24-7.Results from structure vary year to year,hour to hour.You should quit thinking the people on this form fall short of your glory!

5/0 offset shank worm hook,X-Point.

Rolo,nice to see you come around and another educational post,I wouldn't expect less. Really a thought that keeps dawning on me is that I have fished different fisheries in different regions.WTS,I have noticed that angler's techniques,no matter what it is,vary.On Toledo bend anchoring may be the preferred technique of a majority of the angler's.It may have something to do with more compressed "sweet spots"?On Ky.Lake bouys are what a majority use if there isn't a simple vortex for the submerged structure. Just because one's way is right,doesn't make another's wrong!

I like a 10" worm for my home lake and bigger.There other places I have found a smaller worm to produce better. Some food for thought: Quality bass are usually looking for the most efficient,fulfilling meal.Now there are times smaller lures work better and on different bodies of water and in different regions. I say give em' a try!

Yeah,I missed that post you made bassnleo but just read it.

Way to go!That is a nice fish in any neck of the woods.I'm with RW,that's a toad for up north!

Well guys,the Cards got swept by the DBacks.That hurt....really hurt.Tony screwed up!I know Franklin has been lights out,that was until he got to Arizona.He needs rest. The Cards are off to Chitown for a make up game with the Cubs.Cards lose tonight and it may be over for them.To many injuries!

:

I agree that color doesn't make alot of difference to the fish,however making your lure more visible to the fish does.Water clarity has something to do with it,IMO.I favor dark colors most of time because I fish worms deep.Plum,green pumkin,and pumpkin green flake,just to name a few.I go with darker colors for stained or muddy water and natural colors for clear water. All that said,I was playin' around one day fishing ledges,I caught fish on 7 different colored worms.The water was slighty stained that day.Black to chartuese motor oil and the rest inbetween.

Looks like this guy has purchased a bunch of plastic animal toys from some dollar store and put hooks on them.

Glad to see ya'll survived the day.It was windy out yesturday,I thought about ya. Reading your post made me even more "landsick"!I love the moments,waiting for my boat number to be called. BTW,you two better leave my pets alone in Lick Creek!J/K

That will open the eyes to whoever reads it! So true,so true!

I use a similiar method with deep cranks.First off I set my drag very light.It doesn't take much to set it off.When a fish takes the lure I use my thumb as a manual drag.I can mannually adjust how much drag I let the fish take immediatly.I do this because of the light line I use for deep cranks to help get them down.It takes time and experience to get it right.I wouldn't subjest it for begginners as RW mentioned.Again I only do this with deep crankbaits.

Everything Whittler said....oh yeah,BEWARE IT IS VERY ADDICTIVE!