iabass8

there are numerous people that give classroom lessons during parts of the year. i'd start by attending these. for some classes you just bring in the blank/guides(sometimes they will have these for you), and special grips/cork you want. they will, if they are good teachers, walk you through each individual step and be very meticulous in their details.

in a nut shell, that fluorocarbon has probably some of the worst reviews of any fluorocarbon on the market. there are a lot of issues with break offs, knot failures, etc. i admit i pay the higher price tags for fluoro. some line sits on my reels for months at a time w/o being changed. i have some that is from last fall that is still going great. the occasional spray of line and lure helps. no issues with line failure or breakoffs as long as i check my line. i only change it when i can cast/pitch and the knot hits the line guide.

the 765 is more sensitive but remember it's a flipping rod so it has more of fast/mod fast tip. the 735 savvy has an Xfast tip. it isn't to say the flip won't work for frogging because it will but the savvy 735 is better suited towards it. for an all around meat stick for punching/flipping/pitching/frogging i'd look at the dobyns chamption 736. or 735 you can get either in full or split. grip.. the savvy isn't as "sensitive: as other rods in its price point but it isn't a slouch especially when coupled with braid. the different between the dobyns champ xtreme and savvy is night and day though. so there is a huge gap. the gap between the savvy and champion is larger than the gap between the champ and the champ extreme if that makes sense.

x2. i have no issues paying more for a quality topwater bait. it's absurd how well certain baits outproduce similar looking baits. i throw LC cranks but only in certain situations.

I prefer subwoofers and rage craws. Both produce equally well but the subwoofers, albeit barely, seem to be a little more durable. The trailer doesn't need to imitate a fish. the action of the trailer is more important on a swim jig.

i don't use anything you mentioned but the *** black rods seem to have the strongest following in the 100$ price range. i'm tall (6'3) and use 7'1 and a few 7'4s for jigs and plastics. the 7'4 feels much more comfortable to me and i'm fairly accurate with it. as for the reel, either would be a solid choice. they are both in the upper middle to high class of their reels. just make sure you get one that's comfortable in hand. personally nothing is more agitating than an uncomfortable grip trying to palm a reel. as for the power of the rod, if the lighter baits are your primary choice, a M action rod will due fine. if you fish any sort of sparse grass/wood/etc a MH will be more well rounded and still be more than applicable.

Fluorocarbon-Sunline FC sniper and Seaguar Tatsu Braid-Suffix 832 Mono-Trilene XL I don't use copoly

i use curado51s, chronarch 51 and 51mgs for almost everything with lines ranging from 12# fluoro to 20# fluoro. love the way these reels feel in hand. the few 200s i have left i use for frogging and swim jigs.

for what it's worth, with both 15# and 20# tatsu and the same 16# fc sniper, (these lines see the most use out of any of my rods) have been on my reels all season lonh since roughly march (snipers been on since last fall) and used on average 3-4 days a week. sometimes more sometimes less. i used line and lure conditioner on the initial spooling. maybe a few sprays here and there during the spooling process. i've maybe used it less than a handful of times since then.(trilene 100% i had to use it,not religiously, but enough that it was a hassle in 12 and 17#) the lines are very manageable. the only time i really use it is if they are on my deck in the blazing sun and that's really just for line longevity. all these lines are used on 51 size shimanos curados/chronarch es/mgs and dobyns dx743/744/745 and nrx 854 with the jig, texas rig, senko, w/e hung on the hook keeper after each trip. i always retie the knot the next day or whenever i go again but the line doesn't kink at the top guide at all. i use both the shawn grigsby knot and san diego jam. no issues with knot failure. i think it has honestly been roughly two weeks since i've sprayed the reels more than once. good in depth review rockchalk. out of curiosity, why did you go for a 9 wrap knot for backing? I usually use two wraps and call it good after i can tug it w/o a slip.

if you aren't going to be fishing any sort of moderate cover, the 733 would be fine. the 734 is more versatile. do yourself a favor and wait for the sales this coming week and up to the champion series. the 733/734 champ both come in split grips and full grips. you're given the option for one or the other upon checkout. the 733 is the perfect 1/4oz or 5/16 oz + trailer swim jig rod as well as a 3/8 oz spinner bait rod. if versatility is something you are striving for and not a specific or two technique, get the 734 champ.

if it is a very minimal amount of play that isn't unheard of and is most likely normal. A few of my E curados have very small amounts of play and i don't pay any mind to it and never notice it. they are smooth as butter.

opinions will vary on this one and most will come down to personal preference. the best fluoro i've used is Seaguar Tatsu. it's very pricey though. Sunline FC sniper and shooter are also top notch. you really get what you pay for in fluorocarbons.

you most likely put the spacers on in correctly that are below the drag star on the shaft. there should be 2 spacers that you put on first that should be in the shape of an oval ( ) followed by a spacer, then the drag. if you put these on incorrectly, when tightening down the drag, the drag won't tigten down as far as it should. there should be a gap on the elongated sides in between the 2 spacers. i know after cleaning too many reels over the winter and the course of the season, i do this from time to time as well. the circled red spacers are what i'm talking about. also make sure you have a very minimal amount of grease on the drag washers under the handle side plate. too much will cause it to slip.

well the 1.5 casts like a bullet and is very easy to cast on casting gear. 30 yards is more than sufficient distance to get the squarebill to it's running depth as well. 30 yards is longer than you think. are you using line conditioner with red label? the line isn't the best for manageability but it also isn't horrible either. a small treatment of KVD line and lure will make it behave for a long time. From personal experience, that line if left untreated on your spool and exposed to sun will cause it to "dry" and it can become a headache. What rod are you using? if you are using too heavy a rod, the lure won't load up causing insufficient casting distance. ceramic bearings are most likely a cause of your backlashes as well. these bearings really zip and w/o proper breaks or a trained thumb, backlashes can be a nightmare. loosen up on the breaks and EASE the cast while thumbing the spool. don't go for the hailmary cast. you will cast further than you think with an easy cast and a trained thumb. the bearings are meant to make casting easier. try sidearm casting as well. overhead bombing a lure can creates more wind resistance against the cast which will in turn slow the lure down but the spool is not slowing down resulting in a backlash if you aren't careful.

The Dobyn's Savvy series is a great, well balanced rod for anything except those light bite bottom contact presentations. It isn't that the rod isn't sensitive, there are just better options in your price range for sensitivity. I could be a bit biased fishing mostly the DX(dpbyns chamption extreme) line for bottom contacts but the savvy just kind of leaves you wanting more in the bottom contact area. I've was curious myself about the sensitivity about them and having had them for a while, never bothered putting them to the test. I took my swim jig rod (savvy 733), a 3/16oz tungsten weight pegged and unpegged /w a smallie beaver and pitched it around a while. This is one of my few rods that uses straight braid so my experience was obviously "heightened" with the no stretch line. I could honestly feel rock/sand trasitions for the most part and the majority of bites were very distinct but there were more times than I would have liked I didn't feel a light pick up at all that i normally do with a DX/fluoro set up. Not the worst situation in the word but it just leaves you wanting more. They are my favorite swim jig/spinnerbait/frog rod. Fantastic for these things. perfectly balanced with a 200 series curado. I don't use Powell but they have a decent enough following that they deserve a good consideration. If you can find a Gen 1 cumara that would be a great choice as well. the Phenix M1 or recon 2 would be a much better bottom contact bait rod than the savvy as well. The labor say sales are approaching within the next week and the dobyns champion series on sale will run you right into your price range. i'd strongly recommend the champion 734 or 733. I love the DX743 for any weightless baits and the Champion 733 would be more than idea for any sort of weightless fluke/senko type bait. the 734 would be the best all around rod they make and can be used for really anything. If you end up ordering either of these, make sure you choose the SH(split handle) version as the champ goes in both full and split grip. The legend tournament bass 7'1 MF would also be a great option. sensitivity is great and the 7+M/F rod could arguably one of the finest multi purpose rods on the market. If you don't go with the champion, this would be my pick. this would also be in your price range when the labor day sales start. bass.tackle.depot usually runs 20% off sales as opposed to most 15% of others.

the argument is comparing varying powers and actions within the same blank. not two different blanks. so before this gets all been there done that my st. croixs are the best ever, skeletor is in a nutshell correct. while i'm no "expert rod builder" i understand the basic science the OP is asking about and i'll let skeletor expend on his comment. OP i PM'd you a link that will probably help a little bit.

i use the xtreme 69mlxf. it's not quite a M power rod but it is a tad more powerful than typical ML rods. if you know anything about the nrx 822, the powers are comparable but the tip action of the st. croixs XF is faster than the loomis. I don't think there is a company that makes a faster action xf than a st. croix though. i use mine mostly for 1/16-3/16 oz shakey heads and casting DS. it gets the majority of it's use throwing 3/32-5/16 jig/plastics for walleye in the spring/fall. it has as much "meat" as you could want in a ML spinning rod after the tip. it's handled 5lb bass as well as 25lb sheep head who you basically drag in after they give up. fun rod to fish with. i'm sure you know the elites and xtremes use the same blank so you know you're getting a fantastic scV blank. i'm you're worried about ripping baits away using weightless grugs/worms , i'd opt for the 7'mlf. i handled a custom 7'mlf xtreme last fall and really like the extra length for casting but i prefer xf for the stuff i fish.

they aren't saying the dunking made it gritty. the sand itself getting into the level wind and gears makes it gritty. dunking it in water only worsens the problem and washes the sand deeper into the reel.

if your only experience /w st. croix bass rods is the triumph, more than xmas is coming. enjoy the new rod. you will love it.

Quality of it..no. you can use the cheapest mono around and be fine. as long as the line isn't digging into the backing the quality of the mono won't have anything to do with it if you are casting well above it.

black friday is my favorite time to buy. late winter/spring seems to hold the best discounted prices /w shows going on and the classic beginning. Bass.Tackle. Depot seems to have the highest % discount most of the time but some reels/rods aren't always on sale. TW will usually price match though and their shipping is top notch.

there's a video somewhere on TT where a guy nearly spools some diawa reel standing on a shore of a pond. maybe somewhere on here knows what i'm talking about. that's the farthest cast i've ever seen. i've witnessed a calais DC in action and those reels really bomb lures. me personally, the majority of my reels are 51es and 51mgs but i have a couple 201e7s that were supertuned and for some reason just obliterate any casting distance my 51s make. it's unfair how far i can throw a 1/4oz swim jig the jdm diawas and some usdm diawas have lots of spool upgrades that will enable you to throw a variety of baits further than you could need to.

I fish Brovarney's swim jigs in blue gill, white/gold, white/blue/silver and black/blue. the trailers i use are rage craws, subwoofers, paca chunks, 5in single tail grubs. i'm almost always throwing them at some sort of cover and running into it and killing it or fishing them through lily pads. i rarely throw them in open water unless there's a special dock /w grass.

the 2500 is the best all around size spinning reel they make. i have zero knowledge of any sort of sea fishing but 2500 for bass will handle really anything.

probably nothing. the frame isn't plastic.it's the material used on the original ci4 but supposedly much stronger. there's very few on the water tests/reviews for anybody to draw any sort of conclusion about such a new reel. wait a few months for more to come out.