EvanT123

I had the same thoughts man. I have a 1000 size shimano that says it will hold 270 yards of two pound mono but only 95 yards of 10lb braid. 10 pound power pro supposedly has the same diameter of 2lb mono so what gives? I dunno how they make those recommendations but honestly I wouldn't worry to much about it put 75-100 yards of braid on and go fishing.

Jrob, I'd like to see your grips and tools. Gareith, I don't think you will have EVERY tool you will need when you sit down and start. A trip to the hardware store is going to be inevitable. I would take my time with the build. I started with the handle and I glued up my rings on an all thread rod like jrob. I used titebond3 to bond them you can find that at Home Depot. I turned the handle on a lathe that me and my co-worker build basically a corded power drill turned upside down with a 1/4 steel rod chucked into it. Used sandpaper to form the grip and a vernier calipers to measure the diameter. For reamers I used some pieces of a rod blank with plumbers tape wrapped around them and round files chucked into a power drill again a corded drill the battery powered ones didn't have the power to do the job. It's important wether it's reamers or files to try and get something that closely matches the taper of the blank. There's a bunch of guys with a lot of experience on here and are very helpful. So you don't have to go it along. Good luck!!

My first bait cast reel was an abu garcia orra s; my second was a chronarch 200e7 and too be honest there was not alot of difference in the overall functions of them. They both cast the same, felt smooth, and had good drags. Where the shimano won me over was ease of operation. When people say it's set it and forget it that is the honest truth. With the other brand I found myself putzing with the cast control, brake weights and side plate. Not a problem with the shimano. I might have to adjust the spool tension but only if there was a drastic change in lure weights say 1/4-3/4 I'd look for a used e series or if you got the coin get the new one; it does look very nice. Anyways I had the same questions as you op and the only way to answer that question was to buy one.

This is a great thread. There seems to be opposite sides on weight but the same result. Personally I dont fish much water deeper than ten feet and 1/8-1/14 works for me(most days). The guys that fish deeper like these jigs with a heavier weight and that makes sense; to keep the bait down. Guess there is no wrong way to fish a tube.

Baby Raiders archnemises

I fish 1/8 quite a bit. I like to use a light action rod and really wait for the bait to get down. I find a super slow retrieve also helps me feel the tube crawling along the bottom. I also generally use 1/8 when there is little to no current. Add in alittle current and bump it up to 1/4.

"I can get a good look at a T-bone steak by sticking my head up a bulls ass but I'd rather take the butchers word for it." That's a line in regards to warranties from one of the funniest movies of all time. I'm not buying rods based on warranties. I buy them because I feel they can serve a purpose and they have a power/taper I find desirable for a tecnique I like to fish. If a rod is defective it's going to break pretty early in its useful life. Maybe I'm rougher then some on my rods; banging them off the Celling, laying them on rocks, dropping them etc. I don't know. I don't think there is a definitive time period you can go by to judge a rods useful life but if I know I have put it through its paces actually catching fish and it breaks. Then I did something to cause that break. On that note I've only broke 1 rod by testing it's durability after a few cold ones. The shimano warranty and many others are nice but they are not a deciding factor in my purchases. Current brands in rod rack(abu garcia, shimano, daiwa, gloomis, powell and st.croix)

Mothers milk stout.

Regardless of brand this is crucial. I like carhartt for my winter gear though.

Just watched the episode. Some good info right there and you can't ever go wrong for the entertainment value. I'm being optimistic and hoping we're a month and a half from ice out. I'm going to give back reeling a try. Worst case I lose a few fish and switch back to the drag.

Lots of good information here guys thank you. I like watching videos of these old time fisherman. I try and look for ways I can incorporate some of there old school ways and techniques with today's techniques and technologies.

Not trying to be a DB but no.

Looked like Charlie caught some decent fish though.

If you like river fishing go with the stcroix medium light.

Caught every smallmouth? I don't know why your looking for anything else.

I'm not one to preach anything however I always try and eat a balanced diet the reality is different though. When I know I'm going to be fishing the greasy food is off. A nature bar and water works for me. No one wants to drive home and feel like they are going to pass out lol.

I was watching an old video of Charlire Brewer today. He talked about back reeling instead if using a spinning reels drag. This is something I've heard about but never put into practice. Anyone back reel? Tips? Advice?

Don't know much about megabass. You could look in the loomis spin jig line. Imx 782 or 783. It looks like there is a new line coming out you might be able to get the older ones at a discount.

Sorry for your loss a-jay. A beautiful dog and even better friend. My condolences.

Thanks. The blanks retail for around 100 and the factory rods retail for 190-200. You are correct if you factor in the tools, time and materials that go on the rod your coming out behind. I was able to get 3 second quality blanks for 100. So that blank cost me 33 and change the cork and guides ran me about 35 bucks. I don't factor in the tools since I can use them again and again but I spent around another 100 on all the tools. The benefit for me is I can build these rods how I want. I have a 7'0 factory avid and I don't like the long rear grip on it. This one the rear grip length is perfect for my forearm length. You won't find a tennessee grip on a factory rod or the guides placed to optimize casting for a specific reel. I didn't really get into this to save money but more to build the rods how I wanted them and to keep me busy in the winter.

I believe I have a PAC bay. I bought it off that auction site. You can also make one with a card board box and phone book. I'm not in a position to give much advice on this. I would check out the site I mentioned in my post. Do some searches there. You can literally find everything you need to know.

Thanks guys. Jrob using a straw to blow on the epoxy seemed to do the trick. I didn't get one fish eye or bubble in the finish. Thanks again.

Started watching YouTube videos about 3 months ago and figured I can do this. Slowly accumulated tools and materials and read then read some more. I was able to source a few st.croix sc3 "second quality" blanks and the fun began. The handle This was turned on a lathe built by me and my co-worker Fred. The guide train and thread/epoxy work The blank is an sc3 7'0 mf and I plan on using it as an all purpose rod. The picture quality hides the many imperfections on this rod. As I've learned rod building combines artistic, technical and problem solving skills all of which I need vast improvement on. Over all the rod casts like a dream and I can wait till the snow is gone to catch a fish on this thing. I'd like to thank jrob78, the many people on rodbuilding.org and my co-worker Fred. Besides the skills I learned building this rod I learned many people are willing to share their time and experience help others archive goals and that's what I love about the fishing/outdoors community. Thanks for looking!