Upnorth

Although it makes for a rough run, windy days are the best for big smallies on the great lakes. I carry two drift socks and work the trolling motor to control the drift. Like the other guys said, the wind really breaks up your profile, especially in the crystal clear water we have up here. Even on our inland lakes, fishing the wind is more work, but well worth the effort.

I agree with all the advice. Natural colors, lighter line, fluorocarbon, etc. I would add that reaction baits are another key. Spinnerbaits, traps, etc any bait that you can burn. Make sure to burn the bait to the boat, this prevents the fish from getting a clear look at the bait and forces them to react. Try big, bright spinnerbaits and reel as fast as possible for some big smallmouth this spring.

Ditto on Decal Connection. That is where I get mine. Great to work with.

I have a few of Bob's Senko molds and they are top notch. I also have some different molds from Del and his molds are great also.

Not getting paint on the wire or hook is tough. I use a small makeup brush. Dab the brush in the powder paint, then dab on the spinnerbait head while it is hot, works great.

Fishing Hot Spots makes a good map. It is water proof and tear resistant. When I get into town, I hit a local tackle shop because they will usually have local, more detailed maps.

I got my chatterbaits a few days ago and they do not spin, line twist will not be a problem.

99% of the time I can get my bait back if it is just hung up. Its the @#$% pike and musky burn me. On St.Clair, its not uncommon for the musky to take your bait and the smallmouth that was attached to it.

Aluminum molds are worth the extra $ IMO. I'm not a big fan of silicone, I do have a few molds I've made from resin.

Gotta love the smallies, they are a whole different animal. I love fishing in late spring/early summer when they will chase a Zara Spook all day long.

Great book, liked it a lot. Covers much of what has been argued on this site recently.

My Yamaha VMax is like newbe said, the hours are stored in the motors computer and can be accessed by your dealer. They can also tell if your motor was broken in properly with this computer, it keeps track of more than we know.

Match the hatch! Its a good place to start.

First class!! Nice work.

I use Calhoun hand pour. It is a soft plastic, but I still add softener. I would recommend adding softener anytime you use a good amount of salt.

If you dropshot, you know that it is difficult to store and those dropshot weights with the clip either snap the line or fly off on the cast. I tie a simple overhand knot with a 1-2"loop on the tag end. This way you can secure the weight by threading the loop through the eye of the weight, then drop the weight through the loop, but it is still easy to change. When you are done dropshotting you can slide the loop over the butt of your rod handle, reel up the slack and it is secured for storage. The loop is not a strong knot, so when you snag, the loop will break. You will lose the cheap weight, but save your hook. Also, if you dropshot in grass, use the cheap "walleye" style weights (BPS has them). They are thin and do not have the grass grabbing clip that a standard dropshot style weight has.

I have had Yamaha Jet Skis, Dirt Bikes, and my current boat has a 200hp VMax. If Yamaha made a truck, I'd be the first in line.

Those are some great suggestions. I'd be on those main lake and secondary points, especially those that intersect a channel too. Smallmouth usually will relate to rock and gravel over timber and grass, especially in prespawn, although 46 degree water would still be called winter in my book. The good news is they should be pretty schooled up. I'd try a dropshot on 6# flourocarbon, a jigging spoon, or dragging a jig and pig after I found some rock off a point on the finder. Also, once that water gets into the mid 50's, the smallmouth will be the first to start to move up. I'd start looking on the flats close to deep water with jerkbaits and lipless cranks.

I'd stay with the dropshot and add a jigging spoon, shakey head worm, and a jig and pig.

Never thought of that! Thanks for the math lesson. It doesn't change the fact that the guy's whole story is BS.

Read the article, Mike Long found the fish and it involved scale samples. You also said it was caught last year, that fish in your picture was caught in May of 2003. Plus, you are off on your weight, it came in at 21.70

Sorry Frank, did some more checking. That fish was caught in May of 2003. Mike Long caught her April 27, 2001. She weighed 21.70 and was confirmed found dead. Here's the article, with the same picture you posted. http://www.seewald.com/california_state_record_largemouth_black_bass.htm

That is Jed Dickerson, that bass was the same one that Mike Long caught a while before. They identified it by a dark spot she had. Sorry to pop your bubble, but that fish was found floating shortly after she was released. Also, didn't Jed catch that like 2 years ago? Don't take my word for it, go read the book Sowbelly, its all in there.

Congrats! I got my first bassboat when I was 17. It was a Tracker TX-17. You are well on your way.

We drag tubes and dropshots all summer long up here on the Great Lakes for smallmouth, and believe me, it would be impossible without a couple of good drift socks. I also use the Cabela's Advanced Angler series socks. I would recommend getting two if you fish in some heavy winds or big water. One sock off each cleat really keeps the boat stable and under control. I also would recommend going with 1 size larger than is suggested for your size boat. This way you can shorten up your rope and keep the sock close to the boat. This will help prevent a fighting fish from getting tangled and still provide you with the drift you are looking for. This also makes taking them in and out a little quicker.