flyfisher

Bass pro is pretty good about returning items well after the return window. I had a abu garcia veritas snap at the second eye on a hookset after owning the rod for probably 3 months and they took it back and exchanged it for me no problem and also provided me the option of taking it in the form of a gift card if i wanted something different. just go in there and talk to them and be honest about what you are seeing and they should help you out.

I have fished the delaware and neshaminy creek back when i was a kid and i would go with a kayak myself. For one they are easier to maneuver and much easier to paddle upstream should you do a paddle out and float back type of trip. Others have posted enough info so you can make a good choice on your kayak but my .02 would be go with a native redfish in either a 10 or 12' model and you will not be disappointed. I had the 12' as my first kayak and it served me well on rivers and lakes for a season before the kayak bug truly bit and i sold it and picked up a few other boats

I'll second the MHF endorsement. I have a mojo and a rage series in that power/speed combo and for heavier cover and jig fishing i like the MHF. It also doubles as a pretty good buzzfrog rod as well.

I don't think so because all the rods are given the once over and then donated to various youth organizations.

yup, i'll second the waiting for hte spring sale. They usually have a trade in special for rods and reels. Last year i traded in a reel and with the shimano rebate was able to get a citica for $60...can't beat that price.

i think it is hard to do any type of business, no matter what type of business sense you have, without math skills. They are integral for every aspect of a business. I would say look into teaching if you are so inclined. You get to teach people what you love and have summers off

Only one way to find out........go give it a try and there is always something in a creek even if it isn't a smallie i am sure there will be something to put a stretch in your line.

We all have. I became pretty proficient at teh chuck and duck technique when i was a poor college student and only had 1 4wt fly rod that i used for everything from trout to bass to carp. I broke the rod probably 4 times from the weighted eyes hitting the blank and knicking it and eventually breaking it. Hence the reason i always say a warranty on a fly rod is a huge part of the purchase because it is not if you break the rod it is when you break the rod.....

And i know i will anger the fly fishing purists out there but i have been known to thrown Zoom tiny flukes and 4" yum dingers on my fly rod Works pretty well actually if you have a heavy enough rod to throw it without playing chuck and duck all day.

That truck should serve you well....and for my first car it was a 1986 toyota minivan or as i liked to refer to it as the mid engine roadster since this was the model that you sat basically on top of the front wheels and it was a manual with rear wheel drive. I did my fair share of burn outs and 360's in that van and even went off roading a few times too.

Yeah i think she was 10lbs but i don't carry a scale so all i got was a board measurement. The fight was pretty good and as i was trying to get a picture with my hands all shaking from the adrenaline she flopped out of my yak and into the drink...oh well. I plan on going back next year cause i know where she lives I would say stick with your standard floating weight forward line. Unless you are fishing really deep or in really strong current you won't need a sinking line. I personally like the Scientific Anglers GPX lines myself but there are a lot of nice lines out there with Rio being my second favorite. If you need to get deeper and are using a floating line there are a few things you can do. First is throw a heavier fly, second would be use a flouro leader as it sinks and third would be get a sinking tip line

I have been looking at the Lew's as well since i am looking for a LH low gear ratio cranking reel. As far as spinning reels go i use both baitcasters and spinning but like has been said, you can't fish certain techniques as effectively with a baitcaster. Also i know some people can do it but try skipping weightless plastics under boat docks or overhaning vegetation with a baitcaster then try with a spinning rod and i am betting you will have a spinning rod jsut for that technique should your area warrant that style of fishing.

I have been to the one here in the richmond area for the past two years and i never bought anything actually. I won't restate what everyone else said but i did learn a lot about various fishing techniques in the seminars and to me, that was worth the price of admission. Oh, and drooling over the boats and kayaks was nice too since it was where i first saw the Jackson Coosa and was able to sit in it and check it out.....bought one two months later

you have a great set up in mind for smallies. I like my 7wt for smallmouth because you can throw pretty much everything. It is hard to turn down a topwater bite on a fly rod and honestly there are days that is all i will throw because they seem to hit flies more readily on top than conventional lures. As far as techniques go i usually take three fly rods with me when i go out and plan on using the fly rod. One will have a topwater of some sort usually a popper, the second will have a streamer like an EP or the CK baitfish fly and then a bottom bouncer which last year consisted of clawdads almost exclusively and the occasional mad tom or clouser thrown in for good measure. I have found that some of the best fish i have caught are when i dead drift the fly through likely looking spots. This applies for all areas of hte water column but i can't help myself and strip streamers in. I also just got into flyfishing for largemouth last year and i love it but it is a little more dificult being it is flatwater. Where it does shine is in the spawn and you are hitting beds and also in lilly pads or other surface vegetation. With the fly rod you can literally plop the fly down in the pockets twitch a couple of times and if nothing hits move to the next one without having to reel in. For spawning bass i think the flies just look more natural and i caught my personal best off a bed on my fly rod after she wouldn't hit anything....measured in at 26" and fat as can be On a river you can easily go flyfishing exclusively without problems but on flatwater i always take both fly and conventional gear with me in case there isn't a shallower bite going on. Also as far as rods go, the old sage bass series rods are on sale pretty much everywhere and are worth every penny...i have the newer series largemouth model and am probably going to pick up a smallmouth and a bluegill model this spring.

Yellow PP with the last bit colored or a leader occasionally for my spinning set ups and then i go with Yellow for any bottom contact baits and green for everything else. Brands vary but right now i have all PP on there but i may switch to the PP super slick this season.

Dinner tonight for me and the family....after I cook it of course.

Small levels of deet like 20-30% you'll be fine but if you get the strong stuff like the 100% bens it can eat through nylon. Really isn't a problem in small doses because the stuff is so strong you only need a very small amount, like a thumb print worth on your neck. I am pretty lucky that skeeters don't bother me to much but it may be from working outside for a long time I got used to them.

Sedona but you can still get last years Sahara for 50 at cabelas. Great reel for the money

I throw mine weightless Texas rigged or on a shaky head. Never tried the Carolina rig but I don't see why you couldn't.

Flukes are an awesome bait. I have caught fish on them every month of the year. I actually do not like the lighter colored flukes by zoom. The plastic is different and more rubbery. My favorite colors are moccasin blue and watermelon candy. I prefer mine on spinning tackle with 6'8" or 7' rod in MF or MXF action. The key is to allow slack in the line right after you twitch otherwise you deaden the action. You can work them fast or slow and I don't think there is a more weed less bait out there. The fish in my avatar was caught on a fluke deep in the Lilly pads and since I use 25lb test braid I had no problems getting him out of cover. Watch your line and if something moves even a little a quick snap set will do the trick..... Oh and one last tip is to use the smaller versions nose hooked with a gammy octopus hook on the rivers and you will be pleasantly surprised.

Pierogis are good..... Polish raviolis

I have noticed that lakes that are relatively shallow the fish tend to go shallow more often in the winter. My guess is the water temps do not vary that much throughout the lake so when it warms up they can feel it and it makes them want to eat.

Saw that video a few weeks ago, completely crazy but pretty awesome.

Confidence baits bird looks like that too. http://confidencebaits.3dcartstores.com/Birds_c_10.html

I can't speak to everything but I disagree that shortening the tip slows the rod down. Each rod has a given flex point with faster actions being closer to the tip and moderate flexing the entire blank. If you cut the tip the flex arc remains the same but there is less tip to flex hence speeding up the action. I had a 6'6" mhf that I broke 6" or so off of and I replaced the tip. This rod now has very little tip flex now so the action has sped up accordingly. Your theory on picking up your line on the longer rod is correct. It is about the amount of rod from the fulcrum point to the tip which creates a longer arc hence pulling up more line.