Koofy Smacker

Whats your prop look like..

Oddly I have both on my boat. I have had an HDS7 Touch for about 2 months now and personally I would never want to go back to buttons. Extremely user friendly and very very clear. Now just for the funds for the second one

magic

Still not a bad idea to change your impeller. I do mine every two years. It actually seems to push the water a little better once the ears get bent over under the metal impeller housing but thats just me. No reason they should go bad under 2 years. If you do there is something else wrong

9x out of 10 this is true. Cant tell you how many times it has just "disappeared" and turned out to be a big girl. The ones that jump like marlin are usually not even keepers

I loved the grips and the feel of them as well when I messed with them in the store. Then I really looked at them and the fit and finish on the ones that I was looking at was absolutely horrendous

Ah ya that could throw a wrinkle into things. Seems pretty silly to do all the planning just to have it bought out from you though

? What the heck does pure fishing have to do with Dobyns

I noticed this a few times on my reels. Without knowing it my thumb was actually touching the line at some points stopping it from going it to the one side giving it the illusion it was only spooling on the other side

From the pics I have seen of this motor, it appears to be a lot thinner than other motors on the market now, including the original E-Tec. Not sure why, but I kind of like something big hanging off the back?

For general info for everyone, grease should be used in high wear areas which are also somewhat protected like gears, as it deals with the abuse much better, but it also attracts dirt, sand and other grit. Oil is better for "speed", it lubricates (although it is easy to overdo this) and helps keep an area clean but is easily pushed away during high stress events. There is also heavy and light oil but thats another topic. Although many saltwater reel manf's use heavy oil on bearings and their freespools can go for upwards of 2 minutes, so "speedy light oil" isnt always necessary. For the worm, completely clean it first, then put a small bead of lighter heavy oil along it and just spin it till it works in. Will last a long time and helps with the wear on the worm and the pawl and actually makes it run truer through the grooves

Bearings should each have a drop of oil, worm should have a thin coat of oil, gears should have grease throughout. I prefer spool shafts completely dry and any oil on them will be from some coming out of the bearings. Don't mix the two up or itll feel terrible Reels used in saltwater should follow a slighly more "overdone" approach

I forgot the keys to the ENTIRE boat. Including that for the outboard, and all of the compartments with all my tackle, clothes and rods in it. U-turn it was

If it doesn't do it in free spool your bearings are fine. Does it click in a consistent spot as you turn the handle? Or does it do it many times in one handle rotation? The first would hint towards a problem with your main gear, second being a pinion gear. I don't have the bantam schematics in front of me as I'm on my phone so I can't say for sure if there's anything else in there.

Not a problem at all. Keep in mind that most of the reels I deal with are salt water based, so misalignment can be increased exponentially with the addition to salt and sand. Most tolerances are designed with this in mind but when a substantial freespool is in question they are usually tightened up quite a bit. In the past week I saw two different reels with seized bearings on the left sideplates and both spool shafts were chewed beyond belief. So that is where I am coming from. I understand we are all freshwater here, but misaligning tolerances on purpose in my eyes can only lead to problems.

Great idea in theory, but may low profile baitcasters have such tight tolerances in their bearing settings that being misplaced by even a few thousandths can cause it to chew the spindle apart which a sewing thread can do. I have had to replace parts before only differing in 5 thousandths to make reels work correctly, bearings are no exception

I am a tech for a big reel manufacturer (prefer not to say which one). While it is possible you will be able to use the reel for a few outings without any adverse effects, it is not recommended. The retention clip holds the bearing in its "cup" and the spool spindle will hit the sideplate before it can actually touch the side of the bearing which can cause it damage. If the bearing is free riding on the spindle it could start rubbing and causing issues not only affecting the bearing but also the spool or sideplate

Ya its fine. If it hits a rock it will scrape along it until it either slips between them or hits soft bottom. It can scare the **** out of you if you arent expecting it though

Start by fishing anywhere you see that looks "fishy" If that doesnt work, fish everywhere. Run the banks and when you get a bite note the type of area you were in and just build off of that by trying to replicate it around the lake

If you have the jack plate you'll be fine with the jack plate adapter plate. No reason to pull the motor and install should literally be less than half an hour with no drilling What jack plate do you have?

If you have a buddy who has a motor lift for landscaping or garage work they work great. Thats how I did mine. Gave him a case of beer, pulled the motor, sealed everything and put it back on. Probably took 30 minutes to get it on there

The two on the far left arent smallmouth

Pricey and not durable. That being said it has been one of my favorite dock pitching baits for the past 2 years

I have a cabin just outside of Monroeton It'll be a good weekend

A MH casting Veritas is too heavy if thats what you are buying it for. It is a stiff blank they use. I have that exact rod and actually love it for carolina rigs and heavy jigs in 20-30 ft of water. Definitely go with the Medium if you want to throw senkos on it.