Koofy Smacker

Never knew that. Does the inner race disconnect from the bearing itself? Im in learning mode here. Ive redone my trailer bearings a few times and it was just the outer races and bearings in the hub with nothing else. Im guessing the inner races come as part of the bearing assembly itself?

Pardon my confusion, but races are pushed into the hubs which then have the bearings sitting between the race and spindle. How is the race stuck on the spindle? If the race is stuck in the hub then I would just replace the whole hub assemblies with new bearings races etc. Inspect the spindle for any damage and if there is some youll want to replace it.

The Deptford store has one of the best selections for freshwater gear along the East coast in the dicks chain. I'm friends with one of the managers there. Dicks as a whole got some new buyers in corporate which is why the selection is now what we actually want.

Fast gear ratios, sturdy gears, a good drag system and nice large knobs are the main characteristics I would look for. Any of the reels you mentioned will be good. In your situation I would find somewhere that you can throw them on the rod and see how they feel. If it was my choice out of the bunch it would be the Tatula Type R. Ive fished it a bunch, love it and the 8.1:1 ratio is great for covering a lot of water

I fish tubes an awful lot, mainly for smallies so take my advice with a grain of salt because most of my reasoning for rod choice is based around the fact that 9 times out of 10 I am using it for smallies. I usually throw them on 2 rods, a 6'8" MXF which acts kind of like a fast action and a 7' MF. I prefer the fast action over the extra fast because when they jump, (and for some reason on tubes they LOVE to jump) you can keep a much larger bend in the rod to keep that pressure on the hook which lowers the spit rate a ton. I use a bunch of high end rods, but actually prefer the Mojo Bass series over them because the lower tonnage graphite has a little more give in them which aids in what I just said above. A tube bite is usually pretty ferocious so having any lack in sensitivity doesn't come into play that much for me.

It seems like it was more or less designed for tiny jon boats, canoes and kayaks. But even them I think it is way over priced for what it is. It is just too close in price for the real thing which doesnt require you to: a.) buy a pole b.) store the pole somewhere in the boat when not in use c.) remove the pole when running down the lake or trailering.

I went through the same thing. Ended up waiting for a sale from TW and got my 8' Talon through them for 1200 and change. I needed a mounting bracket for either of them and the Talon was a much better choice for my needs. For reference it went on a G3 Eagle 175 with a 60hp

One of the main differences is actually how it will sit on the bottom if you are yo yoing it. The Livingston will sit standing upright on it's nose while nearly all other lipless cranks lay on their side flat on the bottom. Several ice fishing guys have caught good fish on them so far this winter while it is just sitting down there chirping away

You can touch each hook hanger after wetting your fingers to connect the circuit and get it to go off and do a cycle. Also, the chirps are magnified 10x when actually in the water. It IS faint in air but throw it in a fish tank and youll hear it

The prototype bait that he was using which didnt have a name at the time was just renamed the "Howeller Dream Master Classic" since his win. It is part of the new Team Livingston series of cranks which have not been released to the public yet but will be later this year. The bait he was fishing was also a true 6-10ft diver which falls right in line with the DT6 and its color is called Guntersville Craw with the same EBS technology found in every other Livingston on the market today. It is true that he culled every fish except for that first 7lber which he caught on the DT6 and upgraded almost 6 pounds which put him in the winners seat for the classic. To the responder about the battery, it is guaranteed that it will last for at least 200 hours of in the water time to keep working. There are several baits that have been tank tested for 300+ hours which do still work.

Ive used a uni to uni a lot the past few years and have had nothing but stellar success with it. Usually 10lb braid to 6lb fluoro

Your not dreaming at all. There are several tell tale signs of abuse of the life the boat has lived before you got it. All really comes down to how much you want to spend and how patient you are in finding the right boat. I personally am always tinkering on something on my boat, not because there is anything wrong but because I am always looking for ways to improve something.

Bobby, I was working the Livingston booth at the Oaks, PA show. Saw you walk by a few times and meant to swing over and say hi but we got so busy over the weekend I never got a chance. Gut feelings have a way of working into things and it depends on who you are as to what you attribute that too whether its god or just intuition. Randy started catching them on a DT6 and culled up using a new Livingston bait which has a different bait design to it which runs shallower than the DM14

I dont mind the timing, however they really shoot themselves in the foot with having choices of venues to go too. Like Rangerphil said, it completely eliminates everything pretty much from Virginia north. Even though some winters we may not have ice this far up they still cant count on that to be the case and then will never come up. It would be nice to see them change it up somewhat and go out west so Arizona, Nevada or California. Wanna talk about some big sacks take a trip out to Clear Lake during prespawn

I dont even think I know what mine means... Started about 6 years ago on a freezing cold morning striper fishing along the beach when my buddy yelled the wind was Koofy Smacking him. No idea where it came from and that kid has the personality of a ping pong ball but it stuck

Right with you here. I usually retie after every decent fish, every 15 minutes or every few casts if I feel my line getting nicked around rocks or structure. I used to snap a lot of fish off and very very very rarely happens not that I retie so often. Do it a bunch and it only takes 10 seconds to do.

I believe these are what he was referring too

Thanks, I fully got it now. Don't know why I kept thinking that they had to go on the stopper nuts

Ahhh so you put the lock onto the guidebar itself which once tightened won't let the unit slide out? Am I seeing that correctly? I completely overlooked that location to put it

The setup that I have is a sandwich mount with the provided transom mount attached to it in which the Talon slides into. I know how I can lock the transom bracket to the sandwich mount, yet Ive been trying to figure out how to lock the actual Talon to the Transom mount and cant for the life of me figure out how to do it. One bolt undone and the whole unit slides right out. I emailed Minn Kota several times and they keep responding giving me instructions on how to attach their security locks to jackplates, regular bolts etc, yet none will tell me how I can lock the Talon itself to the mount which only has the top upper and lower sliding stopper bolts. Has anyone figured out a way? I only need one for the bottom bolt since you cannot slide the unit down and out, only up and out. If nobody has a way I am going to have to fabricate something myself. Thanks guys

I was working the Livingston Lures booth today (Saturday). If I happened to talk to any of you guys I apologize for not knowing you were going to be there! I was the one wearing the white hat and probably way to talkative haha

Minn Kotas props are much better through the veggies than MG. Youll see a lot more guys down in florida running MK for that reason in the heavy weeds. Open water they are both pretty good

They are both good. Only real reason I went with the Talon is because there was no chance that I could fit anything else in my battery compartment even though the PP hydraulic pumps are relatively small. The talon is all electric and I just had to run the wire. It doesnt matter what trolling motor voltage you are running also. It hooks up to your cranking battery which is always 12v

Slonezp is right. I wanted to mount directly but the configuration on the inside of the boat had foam cavities surrounded in aluminum which prevented any access to the bolts from the inside of the boat so I was forced to use the sandwich bracket which worked like a charm. I know it works in the driveway, now if I could only get to some water thats not covered in 5 inches of ice

Thats not entirely true. On their sponsor boats which the pros use on the last days of competition they are a direct split between Mercury and Evinrudes. Heres a picture I took at their Champlain tournament 2 years ago. It looks like there are more Evinrudes in the pic but they were split exactly 50/50 down the row.