spartyon8

Thanks for the info. I was actually thinking about doing the cheaper bfs as the first rod to practice with. I am going to rebuild my omen rod first to practice with guide wrapping as it needs 1 replaced anyway along with the reel seat.

MickD and DVT, does this mean that you two tend to avoid NFC solely for the finish quality then? I am a firm believer in setting one up for success rather than failure. With that said, failure is a part of the learning process. I would hate to fail because of struggling with a "quality control" or lack there of and fighting it. Would you suggest I get one cheaper blank from them before purchasing a bunch to see how it goes or just look elsewhere? I was planning on starting with D or C thread solely to learn wrapping techniques. Would you suggest I start off with the finer A/B sized thread instead? I know it gives a tighter weave and a better looking product but was reading it is not the best to begin with as it isn't forgiving like the thicker diameters.

Awesome! I'm glad I am on the right track. I am also thinking of a basic, all around bfs build as well. That might have to wait a bit.

Thanks for the information. I was just thinking a couple from the sale would be a good way to get into making my first couple. I wasn't planning on them for every rod. I was confused by the sheer number of options they had and wanted a second opinion to see if I was reading the models correctly. I am enjoying some of his videos. I like to stablize scrap wood for knife handles and he had a video of making wood trim rings. That might be a neat way to merge my two hobbies! Thanks for the link!

Long story short, I have been into fiberglassing and epoxy work for a few years now through woodworking, car audio, restoring a bass boat, etc. I broke a guide on my Omen rod and never gave a second thought about replacing until recently when the reel seat broke. As one who loves the learning process, I have replaced the guide and am currently taking off the handle and reel seat to replace. This got me thinking about a recent rod order that was canceled due to low inventory and no rain check on the sale. I am wanting to dive into rod building. Currently, I am compiling a list of materials and tools to jump into this hobby and am getting excited but overwhelmed as well. North Fork Composites (NFC) is having a sale right now and I thought it might be a good idea to get in on it for my first few blanks. My problem is that I "think" I picked out rods that would be a good starting point but wanted some help double checking my mental work. The power and action ratings I listed for my groups are open to suggestions. I am not planning on purchasing all of them, more likely 3-4 blanks to start. Here is what I have so far: Small Crankbait Rod (MH - Moderate) CB 704-1 (SM) MB 736 Deep Crankbait Rod (MH - Moderate) CB 704-1 (IM) Jerkbait Rod (M/MH - Fast/Extra Fast) MB 664-1 (IM) Worm/Jig/Carolina Rig Rod (MH - Fast) MB 705-1 (IM) MB 805-2 (IM) Chatterbait/Spinnerbait Rod (M/MH - Moderate Fast) MB 765-1 (X-Ray NEO) 7’6” Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Many people who restore boats say to drill small random holes in floor, stringers, and transom to make sure wood is solid and then fill holes. At least take a hammer and listen. If you hear any hollow sound on transom, it will need to be replaced. Soft floor (movement or bouncy) will needs replacing as well.

Fingers crossed you are right. However, being outside for 7 years in Georgia, there may be a lot of hidden rot in this boat. These 80s era glass boats tend to be like this. After I tore into mine and researched a bit, it seems to be the norm. I strongly would advise you to test the transom, floor and possibly stringers before making a decision. Again, I hope he lucks out and it is all cosmetic.

Oh...the beloved S&W Model 59, how I love thee! It all started when I was a little kid and my dad would take me to the range to shoot. He was an officer in the 80s and 90s. His carry pistol was the model 39 and that was the first gun I learned to shoot. He eventually moved up to the bigger mag, model 59. During his time as an officer, he was also an FFL on the side. S&W would do promotions for their FFLs where points could be put to new guns. That brings us back to this post. I have shot a 39, 59, 459 (my favorite of the bunch and own), 5904 as well as a 5906...thanks, dad! Needless to say, I love these guns. I shoot everything but +P ammo in mine and they are only used at the range and then stored. In comparison to today's EDC options, this one is not fun to lug around. As far as ammo, I do prefer the 124gr but 115gr is perfectly fine. I only shoot brass casings in mine btw.

Long story short, no. Unless it is a sentimental project then I would avoid it. This is my 1986 Skeeter Starfire 75HP project. I took the wife out on our 4th date and the motor was very bouncy when I put it on the trailer...sure enough the transom was gone. Upon further exception, stringers and all the foam had to come out as well. This tends to be typical from my research of restoring a boat in this condition. 2 years later, I am still working on it. I just put in the front floor and am now moving to the back half of the deck/compartments. The only good thing that I have found with this project is that I can rebuild however I would like within the given parameters of the hull. I added 2 larger compartments up front, extended the deck, and was able to put in a flush mount trolling motor pan after raising the deck up almost 2 inches. The biggest thing for me (teacher and family) is money and time. So far, I have about $3,000 dollars in material (wood, fiberglass, resin, etc.). The disposables like gloves, buckets, brushes, acetone, etc. sure add up quick and weren't something I planned on much in the beginning. If I hadn't come this far and spent that much on materials already (also pre-boom in material costs), I would not have done this. In the end, you will still have a small 1980s boat that really doesn't have any resale value given comps to newer used boats.

I messed around with 30psi and thereabout for a bit. I found that it sprayed a lot of paint, fast. Not to fond of that. Thinning and spraying with my Patriot was way more comfortable and easier to control around 15psi. It’s difficult to remember which paints need more thinning than others. I guess it will all come with more practice.

Puke from Bass Pro brand with tails dipped? Looks like the puke tube I throw.

Thanks for the info!

I just wish there was more consistency along their paints. It makes it very annoying when you mix one with a lot of reducer because it’s thick and the next color is too thin. Just a pain. I am looking for more consistency in paints across the board.

I just ventured into airbrushing lures and have been using createx/wicked colors as I can get them locally from Hobby Lobby. However, I am not enjoying them. Some need little thinning, others need lots of thinning. Some always clog while others will just spit. I originally thought it was my cheap harbor freight gun so I bought a Badger Patriot. Same thing even though the nozzle/needle (.5) is larger than the HF (.3). Then I messed with air pressure thinking that was it but nope. The Badger runs really well from 10-15psi while the HF likes it from 20/30psi. I am left thinking it is inconsistency in the Createx paints. A quick search online and a lot of people had the same complaints. I still need some colors in my stable like a moss green and a true chartreuse. What brands do you guys run and/or like? btw…here is my latest. It’s supposed to be a pumpkinseed but it came out too brown (hence why I want a moss green in the group).

I like to think of it as the other way around. However, I dare not tell her that!

Man, I can’t seem to leave the garage. This is quite addictive, in a healthy way or so the wife says!

Here are my takes on a wild crappie pattern. The one on the left is supposed to be a black crappie variant but it came out too bright I thinks. Next time, I might reverse the “scales” so lines are white and scales are black then shade a bit. This is fun!

I spent the morning painting four more squarebills. My takes on white crappie (not pictured), black crappie (not pictured), baby bass and chartreuse/yellow black back. The last two are picture. First is after paint. The last two are with a coat of epoxy. Man, a guy can lose track of time doing this!

Thank you! I found the whole process very therapeutic.

My first attempt was painting one of my carved cedar blanks (the other one fell and chipped). It turned out “okay”. I decided that I wanted to practice on some cheap blanks. I am pleasantly surprised with the results. I used 30 min epoxy to seal them and couldn’t be happier with the end result. Now, down the rabbit hole I go!

Tree on the right. Eyes are glowing.

I just got into carrying a pocket knife since about Christmas. My most carried is a Kershaw Cryo II and will occasionally rotate it with a Boker Strike. I recently scored a Benchmade Bugout from an estate sale but am unsure of the feel. The reduction in weight is way different than the heft of the Kershaw I am becoming accustomed to.

I have been heavy into woodworking over the last 3-4 years. I was sitting in the shop with a lazy attitude and decided to try my hand at carving. I took some scrap cedar to make some square bills. They are drying from a dunk in polyurethane. I am going to do some subtle airbrushing just to highlight the color of the cedar.

A la Brava (local company here in NC)

So far, I have found General Finishes Arm-r-Seal and Osmo Polyx 3043 to be my favorite finishes. The Osmo is what is on that table. It is meant for floors so it is quite durable. It is also easy to touch up. I tend to stay away from stains and paint as I love natural wood.