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Welcome to bass resource!

Sounds and looks like you had a great time!

Easiest way to reduce the tag end.....a nice pair of clippers!

I upgraded to led's for I believe just over $40. Before you replace them though, I'd look at the fuses on your vehicle first. I believe I had the same issue on my old trailer and it turned out to be a fuse.

Not sure what kind of material it is, but it might be worth trying one of the magic erasers on it as well.

I would give the Pro-tec products a try. I haven't used them yet, so I can't say for sure how good they are, but I found their site earlier this year and from the before and after pictures and videos they have, it looks pretty legit. I'm planning on trying it on my 97 Ranger later this year when I get some time. Their website is protecproducts.com

They look pretty sweet!

It depends on what type you get. As far as I know, almost all the automatic models have a water soluble bobbin that holds back a spring loaded device that punctures the Co2 canister. These can be affected by moisture no matter where it's found, storage included. The rearming kits are fairly cheap, and as long as you're somewhat careful with it, you shouldn't have too many premature inflations. There may be others by now, but the high end Mustang inflatables use an automatic inflation system called H.I.T. It uses hydrostatic pressure to release the puncture device and must be completely submerged in 4" or more of water before it will inflate. I can attest to the fact this system will not fire in the rain. I've fished in multiple downpours with it on and I'm still on the original arming kit. The down side to them is they cost a bit more to begin with, and the rearming kits cost more, but overall that's offset some by not needing as many. Either system has an expiration date when the critical components need to be replaced. So to answer OP's question, you probably don't need a bag, depending on what type arming system yours has. If it's a HIT model, you don't have to worry about it being in a storage. If it's a normal automatic, unless you storage is truly a dry storage, you might want to get one. If it's a manual inflatable, you again have nothing to worry about.

It's supposed to help control the spread of invasive species. They won't allow you to keep bait either unless it has been in a water source other than the lake so if you have one of the minnow buckets you put in the water, it must get dumped out at the end of the day if there are any remaining minnows. In the state of Wisconsin, it is no longer legal to transport live fish. Your livewell must be drained or in the process of draining when you leave the ramp. Pretty much a joke, because I'm not going to transport invasive species by keeping my fish alive until I'm home and then emptying the water into my yard.

A trolling motor would not be going fast enough to complete knock a blade off on a prop. More likely than not there was another issue there. To answer your question though, the cheapest place to buy one would be to buy used. There are tons of people out there who don't actually try before they buy and end up with a prop that won't perform on their boat so they sell a prop that's almost new for not a whole lot. Places like craigslist or ebay will have some good deals on props if you look long enough. As for which prop is right for you...that's a tough one. Each hull and motor combination will need to be propped for best performance. Those performance characteristics will also be based on what the user is looking for. Unless we know what prop you had before, the rpm it was turning at WOT, how it performed, and also what you want it to do, it's pretty much impossible for us to tell you what you should be running.

I've got a pair in the 580G Green/Amber lenses. I don't have that issue.Like Vol said, it sounds like you picked a style that doesn't fit you face correctly, hence the light allowed behind your lens. You might want to look for a style that narrows that gap you're talking about, or completely eliminates it.

I'd probably have to buy another Mojo if I had $150 to spend.

There's a lot of money tied up right there. If I remember correctly, buying a new Ranger Trail trailer is in the 3-5 grand range. Heck, the fenders alone go for 1500 to 2 grand. They probably plan to strip it and sell the pieces individually.

It's easiest to keep them alive in the livewell. That's now against the law here so you are supposed to put them on ice.

Haha yeah I don't know what's worse, just getting cut off, or pulling in a frog that looks like pulled apart string cheese. I've been able to salvage most of mine with some careful super gluing, but I've lost some that way too that either don't fish the same or they become more glue than plastic.

I'm ok with both, but if I had to choose I'd rather have a little on the tough side. I'm in the same boat as gardner and blue, I just don't seem to hook the pigs when it's a slugfest.

Congrats on your winning streak! I hope it keeps going and you continue to improve. Confidence is a huge part of fishing. I see so many people come into an event hoping to scrounge out a limit, or not get skunked. You can't come in with that mind set. You have to believe you're going to win or at least believe that you have the chance to win. If not, you're just wasting your time.

I'd probably go with either an Avid M/F or MH/F or an LTB in the same powers and actions. Length will be up to you and what you feel comfortable with. If I had the choice, I'd go with the LTB, but being that you're trying to stay on budget, it depends on how expensive of reel you want to run.

I think you're making a good choice with the Avid. I've had nothing but positive experiences with all of my St. Croix purchases and I think you'll feel the same when you get your Avid.

No need for a leader on a frog even for those in waters with toothy critters roaming around. Unless you get into the upper # test of the fluorocarbons, (40-130lb test) it's no match for razor blade like teeth, especially when you really crank on them on the hookset. If the line is in their teeth and you pull you might as well kiss the frog goodbye.

The Dual Pro's won't overcharge your battery. Plug them in and you'll be good!

Mine has a small bend in it. Nowhere near as drastic as what it sounds like you're describing. They can get it fixed though. If they can't get it straight without breaking it, they can just cut it off and weld on a new one.

Rapala DT 10's and 14's are good as well as Bommer Fat Free Shad. Also, if you're fishing in that depth range invest in a lure retriever. I suggest the telescopic kind as they pay for themselves the first few uses. The one I have extends to 24' I believe and I've lost very few baits due to hangups since I got one.

If you want to stick with the Avid line you'd want the 7' H/F. You could possibly get away with a MH/F depending on cover, but I think it's better to have a little beefier rod because it still does just fine in the lighter cover, and when it gets heavy you are still good to go.

I'm not overly confident in them. I hear people rave about them all the time, and I have caught fish on them no doubt, but I've never had the incredible success that some people claim to have on them.