masterbass

I prefer 7.1 for jig/worm and 6.4 for moving baits in general.

I use fluoro leaders to braid and always use the alberto knot. It's easy with practice.

I only use it on fluoro and I believe it does make a difference.

Can you tell me what you mean by the "drag broke?" It may be something you can fix. I used to have a t3 ballistic and really liked it, especially the 3d brakes. I put a 1016 spool in it and it turned into an absolute casting/pitching machine.

The only issue I've had is passing leaders through is a pain so I use shorter leaders.

I'm also pretty careful with my rods. I took a few combos on a camping trip and when the guys saw the rod socks and reel covers they laughed their butts off. Little did they know how much one of the combos ran me.

I'm wondering if your reel needs cleaned and the bearings flushed in addition to you needing more time using it.

Ned rig, 1/8 shakey head with trick worm, flick shake, 1/8 jighead w/ 3" grub, etc. I guess the term "finesse" has many definitions to different people. IMO I think of lighter stuff, but everyone has their own definition.

I throw all that stuff on standard casting gear. I don't consider it "finesse." I do have finesse casting gear as well that casts 1/8oz.

The jury is still out for me on fluoro. I've been using braid w/leaders for everything, but I'm giving fluoro and copoly a try this year. I fish a lot of senkos and light t rigs so I would think fluoro's slack line sensitivity and sinking properties should be perfect. I rigged up a steez 103 with 10lb sniper and I swear I couldn't cast without fluff or all out overrun. If there was the slightest breeze in my face or if I did any type of slinging cast it got ugly. I got frustrated enough to remove it and spool up some 30lb pp. The steez was back to being happy again. I'll keep fluoro on the sv spool though because it was much more tame. Does anyone have any tips on using fluoro on a steez 103? I guess the spool is just too fast for me.

Japan tackle has some in lefty right now. I'd shoot Jun an email about when he's getting righties in stock. Gear changes are really easy. Just open the reel and replace the parts with the new ones.

DVT sounds like one of the most honest guys out there. I haven't sent anything to him yet, but I wouldn't hesitate. He's always so willing to give free advice as well.

The tip is an easy fix. Go to walmart fishing section and they should have a rod tip repair kit that has tips of varying sizes in it.

I don't think you should do your "high speed test." It will damage the gears/pinion. It is not necessary and it doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with your reel....yet.

Are you spinning the handle and engaging the clutch and stopping with the handle? I hope not because it will strip or damage the gears/pinion.

Alphas SV would be a skipping machine for about $200.

Do you like it more than the older aldebaran?

Someone please give a review.

I don't do much flipping, but I do pitch a lot. In heavier stuff I use my megabass xx perfect pitch.

There are lots of great choices. If you pitch weightless plastics or finesse jigs then I suggest you get a reel with a light spool. It enables low trajectory pitches because the spool starts up faster. Heavier, deeper spools are great for casting heavier stuff, but for pitching I like that lighter, shallower spool. You don't need a lot of line capacity for this technique either.

I have casting set ups: pixzilla on a klx finesse rod and scorpion xt w/avail spool on a imx cr 721. Fun combos.

Try a short leader, maybe 18"

Everything, but deep cranking.

6.4 should work for general cranking. The mojo bass glass rod is good crank rod for the money. Also the bps crankin stick.

That mojo is way too stiff for a crank bait. Use the other rod for cranks and loosen the drag a bit. Use the mojo for t-rigs, jigs and maybe spinnerbaits. If you do happen to pick up another rod, then maybe get a crank bait rod. You can use your field and stream rod for plastics. With those 3 rods, you'd have the basics covered.