livin2fish

It has been my experience with 15 lb. braid and 8 lb. co-polymer leader, the more wraps over 12 (a up and a down being one wrap) leads to a knot that is only partially tight. The last 12 wraps will bite into the leader and the first wraps will be progressively less tight. Seems like those less tight wraps passing through the guides, over time, cause the tight wraps to loosen. I've tried as many as 24 wraps and could never get the beginning wraps to bite down as well as the last 12 wraps. I had almost given up on the FG until realizing that less is sometimes better than more, to a point.

I have Fins on all my spinning and half of my baitcasters, and love it. Thanks WRB

A late friend had a problem with a weasel. It or they got into his coop and killed all of his half dozen exotic chickens. Weasels seem to kill just for fun, and can get through most small openings.

Congratulations on all the hard work you have obviously accomplished. What comes at the end of the 100 days? I know almost nothing about medical profession requirements. Is it a residency, surgery, private practice, or something other? Very best to you going forward.

I only read the first page of responses, but to answer your specific question, I can't tell the difference between 30# and 40# braid. Either will work fine. However there are differences in brands, and all suggestions you have received will have merit.

I have one baitcaster with 40# to 8# leader. Like it except for the durability (fuzzies) issues mentioned. Tried it on spinning but wind knots were the problem. There are better options so probably will not buy more.

If I were to use this tool, I would take the line off the tool after the first two half hitches and finish without the tool, finally adding a rizzoti (sp?). The mono half hitch is a new one to me also. Maybe that is needed to keep braid knot tight so braid tag can be released from the clamp? Wild guess.

Was wondering, what level of water (full pool number) allows a boat to pass under the bridge?

Congratulations! Hope you have a nice day planned.

Sweet rig James!

"smalljaw" has some videos on YouTube for beginning jig tying, and I think he addresses the braid he uses and the glue as well as the "tools". And welcome to the Forum!

We're pulling for you. Want you back soon.

I had a Pflueger (sp?) President that was doing this. Upon close examination it was the bail flopping at a particular point in the turn. No idea how to fix it. I just ignore it.

I'll probably never make it to a weigh in at a bass tournament, so for me it is who has the best TV coverage and the most action, big fish or little fish, I don't care. This thread started out with a question regarding the teaching of the sport. Many new anglers are speeding their learning of the sport watching videos and TV, and participating in forums like BR. When they can spend time on the water they are better prepared. Those who are learning from their parents and mentors who take them fishing at an early age have an advantage, which is as it should be.

Where in his post did the op say braid was on the baitcasters? Not knowing the age of the line or how it may have been mistreated, I would put new line on them, just to be safe.

I am fortunate to have ethanol free fuel available. However, the two strokes get Stabil treated gas before freezing temperatures set in, and are run enough to get the treated gas through the carburetor. During the winter, every couple of months, they (mower, 2 weed whackers, two chain saws) are started and run for a few minutes to keep them from gumming up. This has worked for me. Being in NC, the 2 stroke Yamaha outboard is used several times per month and kept in a heated garage. No problem there.

I like my Wileys polarized prescription with small bifocal at bottom. Old sucks, but better than the alternative?.

If the spool needs to be removed, mark the spool to the frame, so it can be replaced in the same position. Lew's reels for some reason are particular. Words from Lew's customer service (I didn't know and had a problem). I think the brakes are on the handle side of the reel, so may be no need to remove the spool, unless for cleaning.

Seems like it has been mentioned that cork is a limited resource and alternatives needed to be developed. Guess I'm off the op's question. I do not find one has much advantage over the other.

I haven't the words either. ^^^What he said with prayers.

Thanks Tom. May be just the option I'm looking for.

More information: Brand: "Slider Pro Heads" On back of package "Pro Snagless Heads" These are offset hooks (worm bend?) Didn't know the worm was meant to slide down. Learned something new. Always thought the offset was supposed to help keep the worm from sliding down. Learned some other things from other posts below. Using only Zoom Finesse worm and Roboworms (very thin) both 5 inches or less. No fat worms. I have tried running the hook all the way through and skin hooking, and just running the hook through enough to leave the hook point embedded in the worm. Just the opposite of my thinking, but makes sense. Hook sliding easier through into the bass should help. The worms I'm using are not ribbed (much). Will have to look for some ribbed slider worms. Thanks for all the comments. I have some things to try.

When a bass bites, keeping the finesse worm from balling up on the hook shaft of a slider, is a continuing problem for me. I believe super glue probably is the best way to solve the problem, but I do not like dealing with super glue. Are there other ways to keep the fish from pulling the worm down? On t-rigs, a small swivel works. I'm not a tournament fisherman, so time is not a problem.

This^^^^

I have a small variety of rods and reels, none top dollar. I enjoy fishing all of them and have no true favorites. Each has a purpose, which fluctuates from time to time.