bigturtle

Aside from debatable difference in sensitivity, 2 piece rods do not distribute the load as evenly as a 1pc. Due to the nature of the joints, they are unable to flex in the same way as a 1pc rod, therefore building up extra stress in that area. This seems more relevant in lighter powered parabolic rods, but can cause problems in more power rods as well, which may lead to breakage above the joints.

You lose that many fish fishing barbless? thats due to your sub-par technique im afraid.

I crush barbs on everything. having a barb increases the surface area of the hook that must be driven through the fish. less area = less force to get the proper hookset. on topwaters, barbless trebles helps even more because chances are, the bass would "slap" your bait, and not properly engulf it like a jig or crankbait. more chances of the bass hooking itself with barbless hooks.

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3 rods to do it all: 7ft MH Fast 8ft XH Mod-Fast 6ft11 M Xtra-Fast

Tatula has an impressive amount of power for its weight. If you want a heavy rod, try tatula

3 of each type of soft plastic i want to fish that day, with 3 of each type of hook i intend to use.

I dont bother matching jighead colors to trailers. I match trailer to skirt color, but dont care about actual jig head color

Braid with 4-5 feet of mono or fluoro leader

Smooth braid reduces line noise, but they dont cut through vegetation as good as 4 carriers such as PowerPro original. If you hate the noise, or fishes very minimal cover, go for the 8 carrier. Apparently they hold knots better too, but i dont know this for sure. If you punch, flip, pitch or frog in heavy cover, 4 carrier might be better, simply due to the better serration to cut grass and whatnot.

I palm my reels without any fingers above the rod, in front of the reel. I have a tatula and a TWS Zillion. I dont have any problems with palming.

Been doing it for a few years. It gives you more power to set the hook so why not.

I just noticed that the new Metanium DC has different setting than the Exsence DC, which is the DC reel im used to. I highly doubt it will make any meaningful difference in distance, especially for 1/4oz lures. If you are casting 1/2oz+, then it might be worth it, but at 1/4oz, no.

DC spools are NOT meant for light lures. they help with heavier stuff, but with lighter stuff, its not worth it.

Curado I are very solid reels, no matter how you look at it. I personally dont own one and will never buy one, but thats simply because I like my Daiwa reels a bit too much. I have used one, and they are very very good reels for their price. Being underwhelmed simply means your expectations were too high. This could be a number of reason, but the 3 most common are either: a ) used to much higher end reels b ) marketing got you nice and good c ) people who are used to lower end equipment, and expect too much out of a higher end one. Just remember that price of fishing equipment rise almost exponentially in relation to gain in performance. At higher prices, say $500+, you have to pay a lot more, often $200+ just for a very small gain in performance, yet in cheaper equipment, say $30-70, you can simply pay $50 or so and get much better piece of gear.

Some kind of spinning rod and reel, 6.5 foot or 7 foot, medium-heavy power, fast action. Thats the most common starter combo specs. Some people choose medium power over medium-heavy, but since you mentioned catfish, i imagine you mean channel cats or something that grows over 10lb? medium-heavy might be better for you. As for the actual rod and reel, we need a price to work with.

Anyone know how the action of the new BDJ Jerkbait compare to that of the Vision 110?

Expensive lures can be expensive for several reasons such as: BLING BLING! Is it hand made? Is it imported? Does it use high quality/expensive materials? Is it time consuming to make? Does it have a very unique action? Uber durability? Size? Paying for brand? Uber realistic finish? (Megabass anyone?) Rarity? High tech? Versatility? Innovation? (Kamooki Smartfish vs regular lipless?) Why you might want to spend more: BLING BLING! Unique action Uber realistic finish Why I spend more: BLING BLING!

well, if its got a super short handle, im assuming you cant use it to horse a big fish with it due to the lack of good leverage/grip? if its stiff, just use it as a close quarter jig rod for remote ponds/lakes when you hike, or just keep it in the car for emergency fishing.

maybe if you tell us what you dont like about the Orochi XX, we can help you better.

If its anything deeper than 20ft, go with straight fluoro for increased bite detection. Fluoro sinks so it reduces bowing of your line Anything shallower than 20ft, go with braid with fluoro leader

Straight braid with tape. Want the spool to be as light as possible to cast lighter baits.

Aetos has a titanium insert guide.

Have an uglystik thats been used with 30lb powerpro braid for 3 years, no signs of any damage. Then again, you probably dont fish the same waters as i do so who knows?

Purchase process? Step 1: look for the Shimano logo Step 2: buy it Haha i kid.