Turkey sandwich

If I'm allowed 2 colors for any topwater, they'd be black and white. If I get the choice of a third, it'll match the color of the primary forage in the body of water I'm fishing.

When the water is super low, and especially this time of year, just try sliding back a bit from the super shallow water. The areas where those super fast runs transition into deeper pools can be fire, especially on smaller rivers. On larger rivers, that transition area where the fast water opens up to depth is usually excellent as the water temperature falls. As for the movement to winter "holes", it's likely not happening for a while in most places and a lot of guys get very confused because of the term "wintering holes". In the winter, fish will stack up in protected areas with little/no current, but this doesn't necessarily mean super deep water. If there are protected points or oxbows with some depth near faster water, that's where the majority of local fish are going to be headed towards. So, if you're finding fish all summer along fast runs that just happen to have a protective point or oxbow just a few hundred yards away, you don't have to worry about traveling miles to find fish in the transitional seasons. Just pick apart the water in between points A and B.

I can't speak on any Ohio rivers, but from my experience, those days tend to be killer so long as you have decent water clarity and the river level isn't totally screwed up. If I didn't have a wedding this weekend, I'd be out and targeting a lot of areas in and around fast current looking for active fish. The heads of fast moving boulder fields, tail outs, and the heads of runs should be on fire now. Other areas that are worth time are creek mouths, and any channels with fast current dissecting islands (especially the heads, tail outs, and any hard cover in these channels). Also, this is a season where weed patterns on rivers can really come into play (finding good grass means finding grass that's still alive. Get away from the clumped dead stuff, it decays, generally sucks oxygen from the water, and is rarely good). I like it because bait fish are bigger, and I can throw larger reaction baits as opposed to fishing "power finesse" with grubs, Senkos, Ned rigs, and tubes. Crankbaits, eratic jerk baits, spinner baits, and heavy tubes are amongst my favorites this time of year. Over my next few trips, and as I'm getting more into throwing flies, I'm probably going to be throwing big minnow and sculpin patterns in all of the areas I just mentioned to see how they perform compared to jerk baits and swim baits this time of year. Hopefully I'll be able to get some good notes.

I'm a big proponent of anything that takes the slack out of the line, and if using mono, compensates for the stretch. I think @WRB's comment is pretty spot on.

Great smallie! She seems like she has some girth, but without a measure its tough to guess. At 21", I would expect her to be over 5lbs.

My concerns with this are the same as above. I generally use a uni to uni for most applications, and have gotten it to the point where I can tie it well in under a minute. Another very simple option that takes less practice, though I don't typically use it with braid, is a surgeon's knot. It's very fast to tie, very simple to tie, and most of it can be done with your eyes closed. 2-4 wraps is pretty common for mono, FC, or copolymer, though I've seen it wrapped 6-8 times with braid.

I'm a big fan of civility on the water and have very rarely run into issues with other anglers. The ones I have, have typically voiced the "well, I spent money on a license..." logic. The problem with this logic is that you could extend it to whatever end and use it to justify all sorts of crap behavior. Arguing a "right" to interfere with someone's work on the basis of paying a small fee for access to public water is akin to standing in the middle of a road, during a parade and justifying it by means of paying taxes and it being public space. As much as it sometimes hurts to suck it up and move, the logic against it is crap and largely serves to justify being a jerk. With that said, pros also shouldn't act entitled to locals. I also think this "problem" is a matter of perspective. Is it more important to you to not back down and puff out your chest, or do you look at fishing as an opportunity to learn? (obviously this is if you aren't also competing in a tournament that day) If I'm on a spot, and pros start pulling up, it's reinforcing my strategy and giving me an opportunity to watch their technique from a distance understanding that they're likely better than I am at what they're doing and I'm going to take a bunch of notes and appreciate a free learning experience. Might this keep my line out of the water? Sure, but it's going to make me better. I am not fishing to fill my freezer, whereas that guy is fishing to fill his freezer, pay his mortgage, put clothes on his kid, etc. Frankly, the misconception that pros make a fortune only makes this problem worse. Half that field, or better hardly make real money after you take into account travel, housing, maintenance, etc. These guys likely guide every free weekend they can muster just to cover entry fees. Most folks don't realize how financially backwards fishing tournaments are run. Most of the prize money doesn't come from a sponsor, but from massive registration fees. The sponsors may cover production and logistical costs, but those anglers are all PAYING thousands of dollars for each tournament entry. So, imagine if you work in sales and pay for your leads, and on them, the old school Domino's Noid shows up and destroys your presentation. You probably aren't going to make much money, and you probably hate the Noid. Don't be the Noid.

If the guides are ok, but this is a consistent issue, it likely comes down to 1) the knot to your lure 2) braid not being super abrasion resistant and taking damage from rocks/trees/etc 3)super thing diameter line digging into your spool and causing havoc 4) casting form being off. I think the easiest fix is to upgrade to 30lb line and see if this corrects the problem. It's much less likely to dig into itself while fighting fish or during a backlash. Also, if you're tying straight to the lure, make sure to use a knot that isn't going to slip like a Palomar knot. If this is happening after hours or days of having the same lure tied on, there's a good chance the braid is getting thrashed on cover, and a leader is a very simple solution. The last, and a big contributor to these kinds of issues has to do with not feathering a spool/setting your brakes properly, overpowering your cast, shocking the rod when you cast (not a smooth acceleration and release), etc. This is fixed with some simple back yard target practice. If I were to start, I'd look at the knot first, then check the line for abrasion near the lure (solve with leader), next cast in the yard or field for a while and pay attention to backlashes, and finally, if you still have this problem, get 30lb braid on your reel so the line will be more manageable.

Early fall is basically everything right up until the water temps start dropping below 50 or so here. During that stretch, fish are still going to be at the heads and tailouts of runs in moderate current, around large boulders in areas of fast current, and sitting on ledges. These are all areas that you can fish with fast moving baits most days, so spinnerbaits, crankbaits, swim jigs, tubes, and grubs are going to be big producers, but really, anything is fair game leading into fall. Late summer/early fall typically means super aggressive fish, and usually a great time of year to pick up bigger fish. Fish, especially larger ones, need to pack on the calories leading into winter, and to me, that means fish will not just be generally more aggressive, but will be feeding actively for a larger window than any time other than maybe pre-spawn.

Thankfully you were rocking 2X tippet! if that were a dry fly on 6x, I would imagine myself floating screaming "oh ****! oh ****! oh ****!" the entire way to that rock bar. That is one seriously memorable fish! Also, you are braver than I am wet wading in cold water without waders.

There are some really good posts above. I've been wading rivers since I was 11 or 12, and I've learned a lot over the years. It can be a great way to fish without having to worry about a boat when the water is shallow. However... my $.02 Prep - know the water gauges, the water temp, and the weather before anything else. If the water is high and especially high and muddy, get in a boat, or stick to flooded areas you know. Surprises on the water suck, and can prove dangerous, especially if the water is cold. Gear - ranges a lot depending upon the stuff I mentioned above. In the summer, and if it's a warm water fishery, I'll likely just wear light UV pants and shirt and a pair of Keen wading shoes. If you don't burn as easily as I do, a pair of board shorts and fast drying T-shirt can work just as well. Once the water gets colder, breathable stocking foot waders are a must. I can't stand neoprene because it'll make me sweat inside the waders and thus spend the day miserable. Breathable waders cost more, but they're worth it. Mine are Orvis, but virtually any company that makes quality fly fishing gear makes a great set of waders from $150 - as much as you want to spend. Also, waders aren't going to keep you warm on their own, so layers of breathable base layers and 1-2 pair of wool socks can make a big difference. This is important to remember when buying waders since you're going to need the room in the feet for bulky socks. I have a pair of Cabelas wading boots that have removable lugs/studs and a felt bottom. I like felt, but @jimf is spot on about being careful around slick grass, muddy banks, etc. Know the conditions and know the water. Lugs can help, but they can also rip up a boat or your car if you aren't very careful. Remember, being comfortable is super important because if you're too hot/cold, you aren't going to be able to focus on fishing. (I dressed too light over the weekend for a trip to the upper Delaware with air temps in the 50s-60s and water around 50 degrees. I was not casting tight loops for most of the day and was all over the place because I wasn't comfortable. ) Dry clothes and a towel are good to keep in the car in case things go bad. As for storage, I have a Simms sling pack that works great, but made due with a backpack for years. A lanyard for pliers, nail clippers and a spool of leader material is a good idea, as is a magnetic release for a net. Learn to read water - this will help you find fish if they aren't rising, but more importantly, it's going to keep you safe. I strongly suggest learning this on days with clear water so it's easier to see what's around you. Pay attention to what you see nearby on shore, but also realize that changes in current usually indicate a change in the bottom, be it depth, structure/cover, etc. Walking in current - staying sideways/pointing a shoulder upstream creates less resistance and will make moving less clumsy. It will make moving in fast current 100x easier. I also don't use a wading staff, but they aren't a terrible idea if they make you feel more comfortable.

I've had a weird year this year also, but I can't say bad. The Susquehanna has been inconsistent because of the rain, but I've fished a lot of new water and did OK on the days I wasn't fishing chocolate milk or weird weather. Still, not a lot of size. One 18" smallie, and a number of largemouth between 15-17", but nothing really big, and a lot of work to get them. I've skunked a lot more this year than I'd like to admit, but I'm going to chalk most of it up to practicing with the fly rod

Great smallie!

It does, but a good leader knot should be fine. It is extremely rare that I have braid to leader problems fishing microguides.

thats a monster! congrats!

The above posts about drag and lighter powered rods are good. I tend to keep my drag on the tighter side anytime I'm fishing more than 8lb leaders. 4-7lb leaders require a lot more TLC. Line rarely gives on it's own, though. This is another reason to use abrasion resistant leaders, retire often, and make sure to check knots. As for size, a 3lb fish in the Susquehanna or Delaware is going to fight harder and do more damage to line than most 5lb fish in lakes.

1/8-3/8oz are the most common for me, unless I need to get through really heavy vegetation. I've gone as light as 1/16 oz pretty consistently in the past and had great success.

I'm watching now. This is ridiculous. It's amazing that no one has a cradle or musky net... Or in the 49 minutes thus far that in the age of cell phones, no one called anyone with one.

I don't think there's any right answer. To me, cork just feels better. I also have different preferences, I guess, for different techniques. If you look at my kayak, you'll see a little of everything except Winn grips. It isn't that I don't like them, so much that I've just never fished them.

I was wearing my GoPro on my hat a few months back and forgot it was there. I went to adjust my hat and of course the GoPro went flying.... and so did I after it. It amazes me still how GoPro can make an incredible waterproof camera, but every cell phone I've ever had so much as touches the water and it's finished. The most recent cell phone died after a brief dunk in Pine Creek that may have also resulted in some soggy waders. I guess, if it's not an adventure, it just isn't fun.

I haven't had a lot of luck night fishing for smallmouth in general. That said, the low-light hours right up until it's pitch black can be on fire. During that stretch, I like walking baits a lot, but I'm starting to replace them more and more with Whopper Ploppers under most conditions.

I am not a fan of party boats. They can be more like a circus than an enjoyable fishing experience. Part of hiring a charter is the experience, the ability to learn, and actually having some input in the trip. On a party boat, you're just a number along for the ride. As for the size and what you catch, that's up to you and the captain. The captain should be able to give you some options and help you build a trip based on reports that would allow you to choose what it is you're fishing for. I've hired charters for shark, and for a canyon trip out of Cancun. Neither trip would have been doable on a party boat.

I've waded farm ponds that were too difficult to drag a boat to as a teenager and have caught 5lb+ green bass doing this. I've also caught smallmouth up to 19.5" wading the Susquehanna. I've also caught some pretty sizable carp waist deep in the water and have seen some pretty big pike taken this way near oxbows and flooded backwaters. Fighting carp while standing in the current on underpowered gear is a trip.

probably going to miss a bunch, but: LMB, SMB, rock bass, striped bass, bluegill, white crappie, black crappie, pumpkinseed, green sunfish, redbreast sunfish, (no idea which other sunfish species), yellow perch, walleye, chain pickerel, northern pike, musky, common carp, creek chub, fallfish, quilback sucker, white sucker, red horse sucker, yellow bullhead, brown bullhead, channel catfish, rainbow trout, brown trout, tiger trout, brook trout - off the top of my head. I guess that's 28? I've likely also caught sauger and saugeye and mis-identified them as walleye.

Lots of good advice. Almost all major manufacturers now have great kayaks, but it comes down to the individual. Storage, transport, paddle/pedal, weight rating, speed, and stability can all be really important. For me, the biggest factor was the seat and level of comfort moving around in the boat. I had a major neck and back injury that makes a lot of boats very uncomfortable very quickly. I settled on a Feelfree Lure 13.5. My thoughts on the Lure: Super stable, can pack a ton of gear/weight, the best seat available, and makes fitting a sonar very easy. If only it were a little faster, it would be an absolute dream river kayak for me and it's big enough to load out with A TON of fishing and camping gear. It also has tie downs and a very helpful wheel in the keel built in. Also, there is an electric motor/pedal drive that should be available early 2018... only 2 years after after it's "introduction". The negatives - it's very big, difficult to car top for any distance and is straight up dangerous vertical car topping in the wind/at speed. It is not fast, nor is it particularly maneuverable (expect this out of all large/wide kayaks). To keep it tracking straight and moving efficiently, a rudder kit is suggested for another $200-300. I can't comment on it's helpfulness because I've been trying to get one installed since the spring and their customer service has been a mixed bag and they went so far as to block me from their owner's group on Facebook for complaining about it. This left a very sour taste in my mouth. I'm hoping to install the new rudder kit (hopefully without half the pieces missing) this weekend. Without an electric motor of pedal drive, it would not be my first choice for most salt water (nor would any other 34-38" wide boat), but it is a solid boat for rivers, medium sized lakes where you won't be paddling 10 miles a day, and fishing/camping trips that do not require portage. I also really, really like what I see in the new Bonafide kayaks. Also, if you're looking for an electric drive for a yak that doesn't currently provide one, the Torqueedo looks fantastic.