MickD

My CCS for the 5 level MF70 is 452/77. The ML XF will be lower in power, of course, and where the action angle will end up is a question, but it should be at least 75. At the time I took these numbers my biggest likelihood for errors was in the action angle. I've not seen any other blanks faster than this 77 measurement. I really love my 70MF SC5. St Croix 's are a little more powerful at ML than most other makers ML's .

It is possible to do CCS quite accurately without a board taking up all that space. If you are interested in what I did, a setup that can be put up and down easily and that takes up much less space, e-mail me.

With all due respect for Ghoti, who I know is a fine rodbuilder who knows his blanks and rods, I think you will be disappointed in the walleye rod for your use. The blank will cast what you want to cast well, but the issue is, in my opinion, in the hook set. I think you probably want to be able to do a fairly aggressive hook set, and I don't think this blank will give you that. But as I said before, you cannot have too many rods. If it doesn't do this job well, it will be a nice Ned rod.

My son has a Crestliner and loves it. I have a Lund and I love it. Both are high quality boats with good features, excellent build qualtiy, excellent structural feel. There is one difference of consequence to me, and that is the Crestliner has a welded hull and the Lund has a riveted hull. I used to have a Monark welded hull boat. Both my son's boat and the Monark would "wander" at speeds just above a troll, like the speed you use going out a long entry to the lake. My Lund does not do that. It tracks straight. I asked a Monark engineer one time why the Monark had no keel and he said the keel is only necessary at low speeds to keep the boat tracking well, and if it tracks well enough, they don't put a keel on it. These two boats do not track well enough for me. I think the welded hull gets the keel because it is necessary in the construction of the boat, probably the boat's backbone. My Lund also has a nicer live well, no post-it has a plug in the bottom and the overflow a screened port in the side of it. One thing I've done when not sure of a big purchase is I insisted on a try-out of the boat/tractor/car/etc before the deal is complete.

Make sure your tiptop is not missing its ring, and while you're at it check all rings for cracks by rotating a Q-tip inside them. The cracks will catch the fuzz on the Q tip.

Oh, I think I get it, you're suggesting that when the screw eye is turned into the Devcon it have a thin coating of vasolene to allow it to be removed later? I would use Devcon without the vaslene, but it makes more sense now that I've figured it out.

I use the walleye S72ML built as a spinning rod, and it is a nice blank for Neds and for its intended use, jigging walleyes. But I don't think it will do well for what you intend. I think you want a more powerful rod with a faster action. While this blank is called a fast action, I CCS measured mine and the action angle was found to be 65, typical of a moderate or moderate-fast action. I believe my data are correct based on observing its curve under load. I don't think this is the right blank. Its power was found to be 190 grams. I would shy away from the Bass ML power S72ML unless someone comes on with some real experience as it too may not really be a fast action. And ML may not be powerful enough. The 610 extra fast is rated at its low end for lures right about where you will be working, and an XF action would be better for finesse, in my opinion. But I have no experience with either of the latter blanks. If you could get some CCS data on the latter blanks, it would be great. Based on my other rods I've tested for CCS, I think you need a fast or extra fast action with power of 325 grams or slightly more. Based on a couple builds of Point Blank blanks by Anglers REsource, I think the blank you are looking for is the PB691MLXF, 6 foot 9 in, medium light power, XF action. The lure recommendation is 1/16 to 3/8 oz. Keep in mind that different makers rate power and action differently, but CCS gives objective data. This rod will be about 370 grams, action angle about 76 degrees, definitely an XF action. Point Blank blanks are terrific blanks, more pricey than Immortals, but the fact that you have pretty good objective power and action numbers, it may save you a build if the others with no objective data don't work out. Regardless, you will be really pleased with this blank for other uses if it's not quite right for this build. You simply cannot have too many rods. Come back and let us know what you built and how it works. I built two PB691MXF's for my son, built as casting rods, and he loves them.

$150 or a little more won't scare me off. Lures from 1/4 oz. Of course, but some are a heckova lot better than others. Current reels are Curados and Revos, prefer the curados. Less than $200 max. Or close.

I've never owned a Daiwa casting reel. I love their spinning reels and would like to try a casting reel. I'm not interested in a top of the line, but more a reel in the "sweet spot," at the top of the price range where spending more doesn't get much more functionality but spending less costs significant functionality. I know, not very definitive, but I think you know what I mean. Which reel for fresh water bass fishing, casting ease without backlash is a priority. I like braid. thanks,

This post is good testimony in support of your "The true facts of fishing are neither believed nor desired."

Thanks for the clarification, ghoti. I thought they were closer together.

Thanks, I'll try your method. I've been practicing for the last hour , and what I have found is that the suggestion to tie it "long/loose" is giving a much better looking knot than I was getting as the wraps end up alternating cleanly rather than some being on top of each other. I settled on 6 wraps each way. One thing I did which I think will prevent unraveling is putting the tag end through twice before tightening, then wet it, and progressively tighten it while gently pulling on the tag end now and then to prevent a loop in it from being trapped. In the end, the tag at the end of the knot is tightly trapped. I also am probably now pulling it tighter than I did before which has to be positive. It takes me longer than a double uni, so I'll use the Alberto when I need a more compact knot and don't want to spend the time tiying an FG. I hope I don't come back with "Well, that didn't work either." By the way, once I tighten it very firmly, then give it a bunch of hard jerks, that tag end is going nowhere, not a mm.

It may be bulletproof for you , but it's obvious it isn't for everyone. I've never had a palomar fail, maybe because there is hardly a way to do anything wrong. It's a "robust" design. I've tried for a couple years to do the Alberto following the diagrams, and still there is something going wrong. It's a "fragile" design. Even you admit to "give or take an extra wrap or two." Why, if it's such a robust knot when tied according to the diagrams, would you ever add an extra wrap or two? Not trying to cause trouble, but just pointing out what appears to be a logical discrepancy. I'm looking forward to trying some of the ideas presented. Might make it more robust for me.

I've been having trouble with hook sets using chubby swim baits like those shown. I think it is because I have been running the hook through the middle, cutting the effective hook gap too much. Run the hook very close to the skin to avoid reducing the hook gap very much.

Any decent oil that is not red. Plus any decent grease that is not red. I don't use moly because it's so easy to get black stains on anything it spills onto or touches. It is fine lube; I just don't like the staining. Clear oil, like sewing machine oil or 3 in 1 works just fine without any problems.

I really have to take exception to the suggestion to put vasoline on the threads. If they are stripped, how can that help? If one plans to put epoxy on to fix it, vasoline will interfere with the proper cure of the epoxy. You're kidding, right?

Pretty interesting responses. For the last year I've heard from many on the forum that the Alberto was THE line to line knot, "bullet-proof," no problems mentioned, no glue necessary, and now it looks like I'm not even close to being the only one with problems with this knot. It is supposed to be the "improved Albright," but it looks like it's not improved at all, at least with the pound tests used most in fresh water. Seems to me that the "improved Alberto," with the features suggested by all of you, should be given a new name and be considered a new knot so as not to mislead those who just look up the instructions for the Alberto and have it fail on them. Who wants to name it? :-)

Thanks, guys. A lot to try, will do it. I was using 15 pound braid and 15 FC and using 6 wraps. I think more wraps, pulling tight before wrapping back up, then the 3 extras after the initial tag through the loop will be my focus. I use the FG most of the time, but it's tough in the boat so I'd like a faster, reliable knot. My double uni is bullet proof, but too big for some micros.

I would appreciate some help from Alberto knot enthusiasts. I have never found a way to tie one that didn't unravel after a while. I tried again a few days ago, was careful of getting the tag back through the leader loop the way it came in, and yet after about 1/2 hour of fishing, it just unraveled. I find it very difficult to do the wraps down away from the leader loop, then back up in a clean way. And this may be a problem, since the wraps are nothing like the illustrations which show them so well aligned going down then back up. Do you have a tip that can make this knot work every time? There must be, because there are a lot of fishermen that swear by it. thanks

Leader material is actually stiffer and tougher than normal mono or FC designed to be line as opposed to leader. No problem with knots if done right (as with any line/leader), the stiffness is not an issue on leaders, and can actually be an advantage as it keeps lures that are aggressively jigged, like blade baits, from fouling as often. I try to use it, but when it gets lost, I just use whatever FC line I can find. IMHO, FC leader material is better than FC designed to be line.

If you can see the fish in a clear lake, they can see you and will not bite, both smallies and largemouths. That's my experience, anyway. But they, as others have said, are instinctive, avoid unpleasant experiences, are not in the usual sense, intelligent. I do think that if they see the same lures over and over, and have been taken on them, they will tend to avoid them. Obviously, no proof. My theory is that fish react instinctively to lures. they are not thinking "wow, that looks like a perch, better eat it." In clearer water, lures may have to be more "realistic." In less than clear waters fish react to sound, motion, and color more than shape. What makes them react to a certain combination one day and not the next is their secret, for the most part. For example, largemouths in a local lake are pretty predictable in summer as to location. You can almost always find them, and they are catchable with swim jigs and trailers. Some days they hit on the fall, some days they pick them off bottom, some days they want them just slowly pulled, some days they want them hopped off the bottom. Same for color, except for the visibility things we know about clear vs. cloudy water (dark vs light, shiny in the sun, etc). The largemouths in the lake some days prefer dark green, some days black, some days black with blue, etc. And it's a wonder that many times they all seem to get the same message from somewhere, like "OK folks, it's junebug today, slow and easy." If it is "match the hatch" with appearance, then a tube would not catch anything. But they do, both smallies and largemouths, pike and walleyes. IMHO, it is action and color more than appearance. ONe day my son and I were catching smallies on rocks and using the exact same tubes and he was outcatching me about two to one. I looked at his lure and found he was using a 1/8 jig, and I 3/16. His was falling slower. I changed and started catching more fish immediately.

i prefer a bullet head jig-seem to rotate more freely with the swim bait. I'm sure many fish have been caught on this type, though, so if it works, fine. Also, with some swim baits it is hard to put them onto the jig without reducing the hook gap a lot. Leading, IMHO, to missed fish. They strike but within a few seconds are off. With a bullet head you can put the swim bait on sideways and it still seems to "fit." Sideways you can run the hook close to the surface minimizing gap reduction.

There is no reason to use the specs on a rod to select line or leader pound test. You can go as high as you want if it optimizes what you are trying to accomplish. You control the "effective" pound test with the drag, and remember, if you point a rod at the object you're pulling, it simply won't break. Rod handling is very important. It is very easy to break a rod with line of lower pound test than its recommendation. Just point it to the sky and lift and reel. Don't stop, and most will break. This radical "experiment" is very close to what some people do when lifting a fish into the boat. The high modulus/high performance blanks are especially prone to this. The pound test rating on a rod is a decent relative power rating when comparing one rod to another. If one is 10-17 and one is 12-20, most likely the latter will be a little more powerful. Combine that with the recommended lure weight for another relative power indicator. If you want to get objective with power and action ratings learn the CCS system. It is pretty easy to cobble up a test rig to test blanks and rods. Here is a very good article for both beginners and vets. http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/rodusage.pdf Info on CCS: http://www.common-cents.info/

20 can be used as a leader as allowed by the guides. The length is up to you, many different opinions on that. I usually start at about 5 feet and cut it off and start over when it gets to about 3 or the knot shows significant wear and tear. If you are getting knots hitting the guides so hard as to limit distance you are in danger of damaging the guides. A little tick or series of ticks as the knot goes through is all you should be getting. If you use 15 pound braid and 20 leader, and are not using micro guides, then a double uni should work. If it doesn't go down to 15 pound floro on leader and I expect that will work cleanly. If learning the Alberto, keep in mind that direction the tag goes back out as the last step in the knot. Go the wrong way and the knot will unravel. At least that has been my experience. With the FG, search for internet videos, try a couple methods, and practice practice practice. One thing good about the FG is that it is so small it doesn't get damaged by the guides. So tie a good one in your living room, and it will last a long time. Usually not necessary to tie one in the boat. The braid most likely will get scuffed up long before the knot fails. Use condition of the braid to tell you when to retie. When you say "these two lines," exactly what line types and pound tests are you referring to?

If the finish is damaged without any fibers in the blank being cut then feel free to use it at least short term as is. If the fibers are not cut, simply refinishing the area will fix it cosmetically and functionally long term. But do not use epoxy. Too soft and heavy, hard to get a good finish. The right material to use is Lumiseal, pemagloss, or some other water-curing polyurethane. They cure almost immediately , so apply thinly with a foam brush or similar tool, and work fast. Others recommend auto clear coat, which is glossy and flexible, dries fast, and easy to apply.