MickD

The site below is a very well run site with many experts viewing it every day, and it specializes in rodbuilding, no lures, jigs, spinnerbait building. It has a list of sponsors along the left who can provide whatever you need, like the sponsors on the right at this site do so well with mostly lures. http://rodbuilding.org/list.php?2 You can ask the simplest of questions on it without any abuse or condescension. Everyone starts at the beginning, and most all the builders on this and that site understand and respect that.

There are a ton of great blanks out there, and you've been told a lot of good names, but not much about the power and action you should be using. I concur that for first few builds, use a reasonably priced blank and guides. All guides will handle all lines; it's more about what you want for finish, and it's about using the smallest, lightest guides you can use for max sensitivity (important in all fishing, but really important for drop shot). Your running guides should be the smallest you can use that will pass the knots you intend to go through the guides. I suggest using Minima guides, light, handsome, not expensive. Use a SIC tiptop-that is where the wear from braid will take place. For a blank you want one with med or med light power, IMHO, and extra fast action. A good blank that gets high reviews is the Revelation line from Rainshadow/Batson, specifically this one: REVS610MXF-SBDrop Shot/Shaky head 6'10" 6-14 3/16-1/2 0.425 4.5 X-Fast 1.78 M $58.22 This was copied from Getbitoutdoors web site, but many carry them. This can built into a rod of about 3.6 - 3.8 oz (split grip) and will work wonderfully for drop shot. Go to the Batson and PacBay websites to get tips on guide placement if you're not sure of that. Mudhole.com has good instructions on rodbuilding techniques. Keep it simple for your first build. One advantage custom rods of any price have over commercial rods is that you can do a much better job on the structural integrity of the grip and reel seat. You don't want to skimp on epoxy like they do.

Be sure to use enough of the working line to fully bury the line to line knot so it doesn't interfere with the casting. Double unis, if that's what you use, can leave a significant lump. The double slave reel is the best way to get it right, and it's nice to find a use for some of the old reels we used to use. I think casting reels are the best because you can do the middle transfers without worrying about inducing twist. Reel the lines on normally, take it to the first reel by taking it off normally, with the bail open, move it to the second caster, then reel it normally back onto the original spin spool. That gives one off, one on with the same spinning reel and should be the most reliable way to avoid twisting. I don't know that using spin reels for the temporary storage would induce twist, but not all of my spinning reels recommend spooling the same way. And it seems like they could induce twist.

I've been thinking. . . I know, dangerous. Since you are leaving an old glass rod and transitioning to a modern glass or blend rod, which should, if you pick the right glass, be much lighter in the tip than the old rod and should not present a balance problem at any butt length. I still would try it before I cut it.

Good explanation above, in my opinion. One thing about St Croix is that their power ratings are usually a little conservative, meaning that their medium power will most likely be a little more powerful than most other rod ratings that are called medium power. I think their action descriptions are pretty accurate and consistent with most people's expectations.

My late great reel service person would charge extra if the reel had hot sauce in it. My experience is that it won't migrate because it goes solid. You can do a lot better.

First, are you sure you want to cut it off? If you want to use two handed casting, you may not want to. I wouldn't want a grip/handle so short I couldn't easily and comfortably do two handed casts. The only reason I've cut off grips is when I screwed up early in my building of rods and I used too long a grip and it got caught on my clothing. What's going on behind your hand doesn't really matter, does it? Until you want leverage in fighting a fish, and it becomes advantageous to have some length back there. Be sure before you cut. You cannot uncut. If you are just cutting the blank, then the Dremel will be your best bet. High speed and fine teeth will prevent splintering. Taping will provide some added insurance. If cutting cork + blank at one time, I have found the best bet is a fine toothed carbide tipped blade on my table saw works very well. Cobble a rig to hold the rod securely as it is slid through the blade. If using a radial arm saw, just get it aligned properly on a cobbled jig and slowly cut it it. Slow is good. I suggest before worrying about balancing systems, just try it as it is. Keep in mind, by shortening it your reel and hand positions are not changing and the weight you're taking off is minimal. It just may be fine. I have found that many times the weight required to achieve balance makes the whole rod/reel assembly pretty clunky and unwieldy. Most fishing is done with the tip down, which minimizes balance issues. Fish with it, don't just "feel" it in the house and make your decision based on that. I have finished the end by simply gluing a rubberized cork ring with the rear rounded off onto the butt of the rod, then putting a coat of wrap epoxy over the ring and up over the next ring about 3/8 inch. Sounds fragile, but it works quite well.

How much are you willing to spend? Roughly.

The best ultra-light rods are longer than most people think is appropriate. 7-7 1/2 feet is not too long. Longer = better hook sets. The problem is that these blanks don't usually come in multiple pieces. So it leads to travel fly rods. St Croix has an SCV four piece fly blank, 3 wt. 7' 9", which would work very well, but costs $250. I suggest you look around for travel blanks, maybe you can find one that works. If not, I would give the AmTak black Matrix travel fly blanks a look. Much less expensive, and are really nice blanks. I have a 3 wt 2 piece that is an excellent ultra light spin rod. This is a growing market, IMHO, and I expect soon a fast or extra fast action multi-piece 7 foot ultra light spin blank will show up.

I use mostly the R bend because that's the way Terminator makes them. I have transitioned to tying them directly to the line so they don't foul as they will with snaps. Only takes a few seconds longer.

With drop shot keepers I put the sinker there and put a grub head onto the hook to keep from that snagging anything, including a buddy who may not know a hook is there. Bright chartreuse is an attention getter.

I find all the terminal knot debate, whether mono or FC, to be sort of off the target. With either, I find the simple clinch knot will work fine, or maybe the improved clinch if you want to be more careful, if you use about 7 or 8 honest twists, then lubricate, then with your fingernail, as you are tensioning the knot, help the coils to get in order near the lure . Then, do a slow, very strong, "proof load" on the knot to "set" the coils against each other. That knot will work. No need to adust anything in your fishing technique.

Different people have different priorities, but for me, I'll take breathable and add layers in the winter. The biggest issue with breathables is foot construction. The feet that are formed by just gluing together the breathable fabric at the feet are, IMHO, terribly uncomfortable. I just cannot get them into the boots without major toe jamming/cramping/etc. I think neoprene feet would be much more comfortable. If you buy from a local dealer you can sort this out in the shop, buy on line and . . .

I see no difference between spin and cast relative to micros. Others have defined the potential problems with micros, and they are true whether cast or spin. I have both spin and cast with micros and love them both.

Why would you not send the photo and question to St Croix? To me it looks like less than great workmanship but not a functional problem.

Photo would be helpful. i'm not really sure what you are talkng about.

" If you guys do not consider any possibility to save a buck or two, than you are in a more fortunate position." It's not about "fortunate," it's about ethics. If you cannot see that, too bad for you.

If I were TW, and I could recognize you, I wouldn't take your order.

Are you serious?

I think a light power crankbait rod is great for small cranks and surface, so think there would be room in your arsenal for that. I have a couple of them and have taken fish as large as 15 pound king salmon on them. Of course there are better rods for that use, but I'm just pointing out they may be more versatile than one first thinks.

Mono or hybrid. Not FC, too much variation in line quality and ease of casting. Braid casts better than FC, not as well as Mono IMHO. Mono and hybrids have the stretch that is good for cranks. For spinnerbaits I use a good quality braid so I can snap the lure off the weeds better, and also like the solid feel of the strikes. But some braids are better than others, I'd stick with Power Pro or Suffix.

All the CD cases I've seen are very fragile, so I doubt I can make that work. The CD wallet sounds like the ticket to me. I envision one for tandems, one for willow/Colorado. One of the big challenges of tackle storage is having a system that doesn't store a lot of air, and this looks ideal. Why didn't I think of that?

They are also fun when trolling. The fish hits and you hear that wonderful sound of a fish taking line.

PacBay Quicklines are great fly blanks. They are faster, as the name implies, than the traditional actions.

I have used the Plano and have never had a problem with bending. I think you may have some unusually fragile spinnerbaits that most likely will bend on fish too. I don't like the fact that I cannot really tell what I've got in the box, so am going to plastic bags. One design/color in each freezer bag (they are tougher than storage bags, labeled with marker, and all put into a gallon sized freezer bag.