MickD

There are a few things that I will not lend: rods, reels, chain saws, guns. Did your friend offer to replace the broken rod? If not, I wouldn't lend him anything in the future.

For repair, check out http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html

Motors as slow as 6-10 rpm will work fine for drying, maybe better than the higher speeds for drying. However, the faster speeds are better for applying finish.

http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/buildjig.html Make a couple V stands to extend the wrapper, then mount a small motor with a cobbled chuck on a third stand to provide a dryer function. I got my small motor at Ebay. If you can get one that runs about 45 rpm it will work nicely for putting finish on the wraps, too.

Follow Delaware's instructions to the letter and you'll be able to do a quality job yourself. The reason for the rubber band is to get the old tiptop off at the lowest possible temp to prevent damage to the blank. The paper clip allows you to heat the tiptop without burning the rubber band. Make sure the heat is limited to the metal guide only. The glue they are referring to is a hot melt type. Don't use any other type (epoxy/super glue/etc)or removing the guide the next time may not be possible. There is a specific hot melt for tiptops available from rod building sources, but other hot melts are ok, they just may lose their grip at a lower temp.

Go to the Mudhole site and click on their rod building tips/instructions buttons, or order a catalog and you'll find good instructions in the front of the catalog. As others have suggested, try to figure out how deeply you want to go into the hobby. That will guide you on what to buy initially for tools. I suggest starting with a kit, and a fairly cheap one at that, and get started on it. That way the design will be OK and you won't have a tremendous investment if you screw it up or never quite catch on. If you are handy with your hands, simple tools, glue and finish handling, are somewhat patient, and have a real desire to build a rod, you will be successful. After you have done a couple kit rods, you will want to spec your own rod blank, guides, grips, etc, and you will want some more advanced tools. A drying motor setup is really nice, but is optional. Without it you have to hand turn the rod now and then while the epoxy is curing. the quality of the epoxy job done manually is usually not nearly as nice as you will get with a drying motor rig. I made my own from a cheap motor from Ebay. I also built my winding setup out of pine, dowels for the spools, and a thread tensioner (any rod building supply house has them). It really dosn't take that much $ for tools if you are willing to make some of them yourself. Check out http://www.rodbuilding.org/list.php?2 Check out the library and search the forum for entries on beginning rod building. Buy the book by Tom Kirkman available at Mudhole and other rod building houses. The rodbuilding.org site is all about rods, not rods and baits, so it is better for the rodbuilder. The guy down the road from you has offerred to help, so take advantage of his offer. There would be no better way to get introduced to the craft than to have an experienced rodbuilder invite you into his shop and go over it with you.

Next step: Never loan rods or reels again. There are a number of things I will not loan: Chain saw, rods, reels, guns, cameras. Too easy to mess them up. Also, if I were the guy who broke your rod, I would have offerred to replace it. I assume he did not. Hence part of the problem in loaning fragile equipment.

Since you even ask about repairing the rod with the guide issue, I assume you're new to building, so assume you don't have a lot of building tools. If you are asking if the ring can be replaced, no. But the guide can be replaced. Go to a source like Mudhole.com and look for the closest guide you can find to the one that is damaged. You can find the right size by measuring the inner diameter of the guide frame where the old ring was mounted. That will be the nominal size of the guide to be replaced. Buy the guide, a spool of thread closest to the color on your rod, color preservative, and epoxy winding finish. The Mudhole site will have basic winding instructions. You can tension the thread by running it through the pages of a book. (or, if you have a buddy who builds rods, he can probably do it for you). Regarding the "generic" rod-the reason it is so out of balance is probably because it has a pretty heavy blank and/or guides. I doubt it is worth rebuilding, but you can simulate what you will have for balance by taping weights on the butt and then using the rod. Installing a grip is usually done from the tip end of the rod so that the taper of the blank can be matched in the reaming of the grip. Going on from the back means that the front of the grip will have to be the butt diameter of the rod. When glued on, it will not be as strong as it would be if you were matching diameters closer. A way to do it well would be to buy a pipe type spinning reel seat and trim rings for each end (to finish off the seat to the blank nicely)and build it without a foregrip (not needed anyway on most rods). For the butt, buy a pre-built 2 or 1 1/2 inch butt grip and bore it to fit the butt of the rod. You will now have a split grip rod which will balance as well as can be done for your rod. Mudhole site also has instructions on installing reel seats. To take off the original handle will require you to take all the cork off. Since it sounds like a cheap rod, that may not be too difficult. A sharp knife used carefully followed by sandpaper, then possibly paint to provide a new finish where the grip used to be.

My experience with taking reel seats and grips off is that the boiling water may not be needed. With factory rods there often is not a lot of epoxy used and shims are often cardboard which makes it relatively easy to pry the parts off once you make the longitudinal cuts (I've found dremel type tool to be the best option) recommended in the previous post. Cleanup may take you more time than the removal of the parts. One of my favorite rods now is one I rebuilt like this. I didn't like the reel seat and grip design, or the guides, but liked the action. Now it is a great rod, better than new.

I suggest you cobble a temporary extension on with the length you think you want and try it out. If the handle gets too long it could snag clothing at your elbow. If you pivot the rod around the reel "twitching" the lure, the butt goes by your elbow on the inside. You don't want to "overachieve" and then cut it back off.

Hook up ratio might be better with a slower action, but if you check with the descriptions of rods sold as spinnerbait rods, they usually say the fast or extra fast action helps to keep the spinnerbait from "helicoptering". Keep in mind that different manufacturers describe their actions differently. I would call the action of my Loomis spinnerbait rod as fast-Loomis calls it extra-fast. It is a very nice rod, whatever it is. One aspect of some spinnerbait fishing is that you may want to tick weeds and snap the lure free. That works better with a faster action.

Someone mentioned Cabelas Prodigy-they are wonderful reels. They are obviously made by Daiwa, at least mine are because it says so on the reel. Sometimes on sale in your price target. Otherwise, it is wise to stick with name brands if you plan to have them professionally serviced. Some of the best servicers won't service brands other than Shimano, Daiwa, Quantum, and a few other name brands. You can do the required cleaning and lubing yourself, although I wouldn't recommend taking them totally apart. They are getting pretty complicated and you might end up with a part or two left over. Shimano has a reel or two in your price range, as does Daiwa. I have an older Quantum, and am a little gunshy about them because that reel as it aged got pretty rough compared to Shimanos and Daiwas. They may be a lot better now. I have to admit I have more confidence in Shimano and Daiwa than any others, and will wait get what I need from them rather than buy other brands.

The characteristics of Ultra Soft are quite different than just "Hybrid." I find that 12 # Ultra soft is a wonderful line for baitcasting, haven't tried heavier tests. I use 10# successfully on a Shimano Stradic, but I know I would have trouble with a size 100 reel-my Stradic is 400. The smaller the spool diameter, the less heavy you can go with any line. You should find the Ultra Soft allowing you to go not as high as the limper monos, but higher than flouros. Note that the instructions for loading line onto different spinning reels is different. I don't know why, but with some you take it off the end of the line spool without the line spool rotating, in a direction opposite the rotation of the bail. This is logical since spinning reels inherently put a twist in the line for every bail rotation, and this method counteracts that. On others that have "special" line twist reduction you take it off the spool with the spool rotating. Check the instructions for your reel. If you don't do it right you can have a mess with any line.

My position is that I want to use the easiest, most effective, most problem-free outfit for what I'm trying to do. That leads me to spinning for most jigging, especially light jigging, and for light lures. While I have used baitcasters for many years, and they continue to improve, they are not easy for me to use on lures less than about 1/4 oz. That's where spin comes in for me. When casting all other lures above about 1/4 oz I use baitcasters because for me the ergonomics are better so that after a long day casting there is less fatigue in my wrists. Fighting fish is also better with a baitcaster since I use both wrists and arms, cradleing the rod along one arm, not just holding with one and cranking with the other. I admit to having troubles casting into the wind, especially witn lures like spinner baits that have a lot of wind resistance. Spoons and many modern cranks with the sophisticated internal weighting systems, no problem in the wind. If I can't cast it easily and reliably, I use spin. All trolling except rare cases of very small lures, baitcasters are the way to go. One thing I learned when fishing for spieces that will come back after hitting and missing, or hitting and cutting the bait in half, the ability to instantly give line freely is a big advantage of baitcasters. I think the most effective fishermen will be proficient in both.

I agree longer is better. I made a super nice ultra light out of a 3 weight 7 1/2 foot fly blank, and it really works well, even on the occasional big fish as long as it's in open water. Longer rods cast longer distances with ease, and helps in setting the hook. Setting the hook on this outfit is simply not as issue. I use a Shimano size 50 reel with 8# braid. Line weight will definitely affect casting, with 4 pound mono about as heavy as I would go with a small reel. I consider ultra light to be a technique, not a line # test, and 8 # braid is a great line for this technique.

It is important to relieve the drags every time you store for any significant time, both casting and spinning. Will help keep them smooth and constant. Check out this rack: http://www.cabelas.com/product/Fishing/Rod-Reel-Storage/Fishing-Rod-Racks%7C/pc/104793480/c/104812380/sc/104539680/Cabelas-Solid-Oak-Rod-Racks/737572.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Ffishing-rod-reel-storage-fishing-rod-racks%2F_%2FN-1102357%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_104539680%3FWTz_l%3DUnknown%253Bcat104793480%253Bcat104812380&WTz_l=Unknown%3Bcat104793480%3Bcat104812380%3Bcat104539680 That's Cabelas model IK-014350 if you can't cut and paste the link. You can easily make this yourself-look closely at how it is built, tilted bottom rest, the low dowell in front, and the higher back rest. It works great keeping the outfits vertical with little force applied anywhere, so no tendency for rods to take a set. Easy in easy out. Works with combos or rods. I would not store even the modern graphites horizontally for any length of time, although I have no data to indicate it damages the rods. I have been told by rod manufacturing reps not to store horizontally. I only take the reels off in the fall before cleaning and lubing the reels, and cleaning and checking the rods and guides. I keep my best rods in the house-not in the unheated pole barn, but have some cheap rods that have been stored outside without apparent ill effects.

Keep in mind there is Yozuri Hybrid and Yozuri Hybrid Ultra Soft. Both are hybrids, not pure flouro. Ultra soft is softer and casts better. I'm not sure what compromises are involved with getting it softer, but it probably has less flouro and more of the other plastic (nylon?), so would be more visible. I've not used Hybrid, but Ultra Soft is one of my favorites, 10# for salmon spinning outfit, and 12# for bass casting outfit.

I agree the Albright is the best, most easily tied, of the compact leader to line knots, but even it can be noisy going through the guides. Some of it is the length of the leader; experiment to see what works best with your setup. Some say that having the knot just onto the spool works best, and that seems consistent with my experience. There are a few knot glues out there. I think they are used for salt fly outfits to make sure the line to backing knot goes through the guides as well as possible. And I've heard a lot of guys use super glue. One thing to keep in mind, if you have a knot going through the guides, sooner or later it will get damaged. Check it now and then, and rety now and then.

I don't know if flouro is sensitive to moisture content or not, but nylon is. If nylon mono is left outside, like in an unheated garage or other building) in the winter in northern states it gets brittle, hard, until the moisture content is restored. That is why line trimmer line is supposed to be kept inside. (If you forget, soak it in water in the spring). Anyone know about flouro? If it is like nylon, then some of the differences of opinion people are having could be actual differences in the properties of the lines caused by drying out.

I cannot see how any line can be considered "sensitive" if it is slack. Until at least a little tension is put on it, it can't be "sensitive." Or not sensitive. Or more or less sensitive. Sensitive to what? Many expert anglers say they discover most of their bass bites while finesse fishing by seeing the line move, not feeling it. Hence yellow colored braid, or other high vis colors. Even with a little tension, the differences have to be small at most. How much can 10# mono stretch if you put a couple ounces of tension on it? What can be said without argument is that braid has the least amount of stretch, almost zero, flouro next, and mono last (most stretch for a given tension). The more tension you put on the lines, the more the differences will be felt, probably as differences in "sensitivity." The lighter the tension, the less differences in sensitivity between the lines. At least that is how it appears to me.

It sounds like you have not read the instruction sheet that came with the reel. I strongly recommend that you at least skim over it. Not all reels are the same for something as simple as putting the line on, but do it wrong, and it will not work as well. In my experience, a new Shimano reel will not need more lube until you use it a lot. Follow instructions on what to put into the lube port (most likely reel grease). All other pivot points, like on the bail pivots, the line roller, the handle grips, use reel oil-not just any oil, but a good quality reel oil. Wipe off excess so it doesn't attract dirt. Keep the reel away from dirt, especially sand, and if used in salt water clean it off with fresh water with every use. If you do this you will be washing away some of the oil, so more frequent lubing will be required. Too much lube will make it sluggish, especially when cold. If it starts to feel "catchy," not smooth on retrieve, it needs some lube in the lube port. If the bail gets reluctant to close properly, it needs oil on all the bail pivot points. Love it, but not to death.

Some reels just cast well with little adjustment and some don't. I probably will be kicking over the hornets' nest in saying this, but here is a reel that is very easy to learn on, very easy to cast without backlashes, and requires little adjustment between lures of different weights and styles. IMHO, it is bullet proof for moderate duty fresh water fishing: Shimano Curado CU200E-7. (or the left hand version if you prefer-I think the RH retrieve is better ergonomically than the LH for right handed casters) I'm not saying there are not others that do it as well or better, but I've not casted one. I do know this reel is a wonderful, easy casting, reel. Spool it with 12 # Yozuri hybrid ultra soft or mono and it will work. Until you learn to cast well, stay away from flouro or braid or mono over about 15 pound test. Start learning with an easy casting lure like a 3/8 oz spoon, then move to cranks or other type lures. Leave spinnerbaits til you get confident with others. Spinnerbaits catch the wind and make casting more difficult. Initially set it up with 3 of the centrifugal weights engaged, set the spool knob so that your lure moves slowly down when you let off the "trigger" with the rod held horizontally. Don't get discouraged, and don't try for max distance at first-just try to get a moderate distance, smooth, cast. As you progress you will tune the adjustments to better suit what you are doing. I have had many other reels, and none is as easy to cast as this one. As for your original question, this reel has 6 bearings + the one way bearing that keeps the handle from going backwards. My second best casting reel is an old Shimano Calcutta 100 with 2 bearings + the one way bearing. You need at least the 3 bearings of the Calcutta, but after that there are a lot of things in reels that affect casting other than bearing count. I don't pretend to understand them all.

I agree that line rating is the least useful rating. I should also mention that there is nothing wrong with using a line that is mucher heavier than the line rating on the rod If You Set Your Brake Properly. !! The most important issue with a rod that is to be used for casting is for that rod to load properly for the lure weight you will be using. A properly loading rod will come from the proper power and action. If the rod overpowers the lure, it's like a broomstick (exaggerated, I know). If the lure overpowers the rod it would be like casting a 5/8 lure with a 3 weight fly rod (exaggerated again, of course). A properly loading rod will cast effortlessly using the energy of the loaded rod to propel the lure, like a properly lined fly rod. The trick is to get this outfit balanced properly in the store. (If they have a casting tank, or will allow you to cast in the parking lot, you can take a lure and reel to the store with you and try it out-that's the best!) Since this is rare, and I enjoy building rods, is why I build my own with blanks from companies that I understand. I think the lure weight recommendations are fairly accurate for zeroing in on a rod. Most choose an action that is too fast for proper casting/loading. IMHO. The right rod for casting will be much different than the right rod for jigging. In both, the weight of the lure is very important, because even in most jigging, you do have to cast the jig out. But you can compromise a bit to get the right action for jigging.

the only way I can balance a 7 'rod so it is not tip heavy is to make the length behind the butt too long to fit me-get snags at the elbow with some fishing motions. I much prefer the lightest outfit I can make over balance that comes from adding weight. I like 7' rods or sometimes longer for the casting distance + .IMHO. As soon as you add a lure to the balanced outfit, it is out of balance. Even the lightest lures at the end of a rod will make it tip heavy. With finesse fishing, tubes, jigs, the rod is often held more vertically, at least for me, and there is no "lure weight" while working the lure, so I can almost get neutral balance without the ergonomixs problem.

My fishing partner uses swivels, but with a short enough leader that the swivels don't go through the guides. I just cannot imagine having swivels go through the guides, and cannot cast well with leaders long enough to be effective. The best knot I've found and it's easy to tie is the albright. It is the smallest, most streamlined knot I've found - it has just two diameters of the bigger line while many knots have up to five. The alberto is simply an albright that uses two wraps of the smaller line, one down then one back up. I've tried this not knowing its name and it is tougher to do well than the albright. It doesn't smooth out as cleanly as the albright. I have no data, but doubt if it is any stronger than a correctly done albright. It will theoretically be bigger by two diameters of the smaller line, which admittedly isn't much. Looking at salt water forums there is a lot of talk about knots and the major factor in most knots appears to be doing them correctly. An advantage of the albright is that it is easy to tie it correctly. Many of the knots are not that easy to tie correctly. And none that I have found is smaller. Another common theme on the forums is the problem of braid cutting the mono or flouro. I've never had that happen with the albright or the uni-uni.