MickD

I would not trust a "no drill" transducer attachment. I think the best solution is to mount a plastic bar with screws and a premium sealer under it onto the transom then attach the transducers with screws that don't go through all the way through the bar so the risk of leaks is less. Yet you still will have the ability to mount multiples or move the single easily and without risk.

You will get conflicting opinions on this, but mine is that it does not adversely affect feel and it helps to preserve cork, also making it easier to clean. Since cork does not really absorb anything, if you don't like it you can do a light sanding and have fresh uncoated cork.

This shows the problem. 2 blanks called Medium power, same lengths, one at 310 grams one at 617 grams. Just because one is called a "spin" and could be expected to be of less power, I don't think a difference of this magnitude is reasonable. It's the same thing for action with one blank maker's lineup having blanks called "fast" with CCS AA's varying as much as 25 degrees. What can be done? 1. Ask the blank maker for CCS data. They have it and most will give it when asked. 2. Set up your own CCS rig and measure your blanks. In time you'll have a better understanding of what's going on, although there will still be surprises without having CCS data up front, 3. Consult and support https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1r3zv1ygtuUjPBa-c5LT9RTYeDR_pnCDIkVIdDv0YoeQ/edit#gid=1592691333 If you are unfamiliar with CCS it is a method for objectively measuring the power and action of blanks and rods. https://www.common-cents.info/ It was developed primarily for fly rods, but it is applicable to any blanks/rods.

I expect they are, but am not 100% sure. If the model numbers are exactly the same, they are the same. Blanks can be built any way you want; the main thing (and challenge with subjective descriptions which are sometimes inconsistent even within the same company's blanks) is to get the power and action you want.

Lead alternatives are mentioned in the Michigan Fishing Guide, but there is no mention of restrictions to its use in Lake St Clair or any other Michigan water. I personally do like tungsten cylindrically shaped weights as they seem to get hung up less than other designs. But I don't rely on the typical drop shot "pinch" wire for retention. Biggest source of snags on St Clair for me has been the mussels.

I have only built and used one RX10, the 7' 2 " M (ETES72M) and it compares favorable with my St Croix SCV70MF. It is clearly a premium blank/rod. CCS ERN 16.9, AA 75 (or a little higher on AA). You can find the power/action specs on the series (and many more blanks) at https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1r3zv1ygtuUjPBa-c5LT9RTYeDR_pnCDIkVIdDv0YoeQ/edit#gid=1592691333 It's True Natural Frequency compares favorably with other blanks in its price range.

I really like the VMC Spin Shot for the hook. I'm not great at drop shot knots , so this helps and I've never seen any occasion where I thought it didn't catch fish as well as a knot. For the sinker I often just use a couple split shots, often cylindrical weights tied on. Most drop shot "clamps" sooner or later lose the sinker. Fish are often so scattered that drifting with drop shot and tubes to find them works well. Make sure you take Neds in Canada Craw and 3.5 inch tubes in watermelon/red flake or similar. Green is the best color on St. Clair. It's the only color some use. I've done well with 3-4 inch swimbaits in white or a goby color (drop to bottom and snap up or slow/steady retrieve, experiment with the retrieve) .

There is a product that is said to be for mounting guides, supposedly weaker than tiptop glue. I've used it with limited success. I have found it tricky to get just the right amount onto the foot and then get it in the right place on the blank before it sets. I think if you are managing with the bands then I'd suggest sticking with them.

2 inches is about where depending on the action of the rod, gluing a new tip on might work and might not. I would not do it. I would fix it with this process. Which works very well. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html

Finish the Alberto with two overhand knots of the braid tag end. That prevents any slip of the knot if you have very slippery line or have gone out the wrong way with the braid tag end. Be sure to wet the knot as you set it, and set it very tightly. If this does not work I would suggest changing to another leader - might be bad stuff especially if you're using old line for a leader. I use premium fly tippet for my leaders.

Might be time for you guys to find a new source for blanks. Seems based on this forum and another that NFC has a "straightness" problem.

Mudhole has tubing and rings that work very well. O rings certainly will work, but are pretty pricey compared to the options above, I believe. One thing nice about the rings is they cut very easily with an exacto knife without disturbing the partially wrapped guide. https://mudhole.com/products/crb-micro-guide-bands I use tape for the larger guides and similar bands (dental brace bands) for micros. These bands are highly recommended by a friend, so I'll be getting some.

First, let me say the one unalienable truth about fishing rods: "One can never have too many fishing rods." It's like purses and shoes for women. Just cannot refute it. It's written on a rock. So, buy a new rod, but fix this one. I expect the comments on "getting stiffer" and "cannot be fixed" are about simply replacing the tiptop. I agree that is not a solution. but with this process it will not get stiffer and the action will be the same. A little slower on recovery. Will you feel it? Maybe, maybe not.

Join this forum and use the Library articles, especially this one: https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html

If it's more than an inch it will be noticeably changed, in my opinion. Replacing just the tiptop will be a noticeable change. But this procedure does work pretty well in restoring original action. Power will not be affected. Theoretically it will recover a little slower due to the added mass, but I've done it to a number of rods and the owners were pleased with how they fished. I own two of the rods and they work fine, one broken near the tip and one broken farther down. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html

I regularly drive 2 hours one way to fish. When I go that far, it's a long day. But often worth it.

While the tension varies with the thread left on the spool, a much bigger effect, IMHO, is the diameter of the blank on which one is wrapping. Might have to adjust the tension depending on the blank diameter. I don't like the tensioners that compress washers against the ends of the spool because labels on the spool affect the tension, and often the tension cannot be held constant at any level. The old Flex Coat tensioner mentioned is said to be a problem with metallics, but I never used it for metallics (just for trim) and I never had a problem with it on non-metallic thread. I think that kind of tensioner is used on commercial equipment, so I think with the right thread it works just fine.

It's a matter of personal preference what to use and depends also on the size of the guides-tiny guides require a smaller tool. Amazon has lots of good, cheap, brushes if you want to go that route. I like brushes with soft bristles, square cut for most work. Pointed small brush for very small wraps and a bodkin to put a drop at the base of the guide ring on some guides.

I don't build with skeleton seats, but if I did, I would read this article and follow it to a T. I use this process on all reel seats and the blank surfaces. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html

I just can't resist, forgive me. But have you considered taking your reels apart on the lawn? ?

Doesn't the reel documentation have a schematic that shows all the parts? I can assure you that every single part has a function. I think the risks of screwing up a very complex device like a current cast or spin reel far outweigh the advantages of taking them completely apart. For most of us. The only time that is appropriate, IMHO, is when they have been submerged. In that case, I'll leave it to the experts.

Might want to consider not taking reels apart past the first "layer." Simply use them, lube through ports or externally, limit how far you get into them, and I think you'll have much more success. I haven't taken a reel totally apart in years and all of mine, BC, spin, and fly, work just fine.

If bottom trash is a problem with Ned try using a Ned on a drop shot with the hook above the sinker a foot or so.

Check out the offerings of SiebertOutdoors.com to find one very similar. Great quality, unbelievable options.

The new Tatula is amazingly smooth and easy to cast. The previous model was very good, but the newest one is even better.