MickD

Thanks, I wasn't sure whether "fast" referred to the taper or the recovery speed. Basically it's an ExFast action.

May I ask what is a "soft but fast tip?"

I have used FC to braid with FC from about 10 pound test to 20 and braid from 10 to 50 without problems. I cannot think of the reason for your problems. Since I now use mostly micro guides I've changed to my version of the Alberto, which has worked just fine. I do an Alberto as shown in all the on line diagrams then finish it with two overhand knots of the braid tag tightly set against theknot. Doesn't make it any bigger but keeps it from unravelling, which I have experienced without the overhand knots. I suggest you try the Alberto with the same lines and report whether there were breaking troubles.

Very dysfunctional, A-Jay. We need to get you some of those little pink heart mints with a soppy slogan on them for Valentine's day. Give me the address you'll be at on about April 15, and I'll deliver. Get you into a better mood just before you go out and tie a double uni. I have never had a double uni cut or break any leader, but as others have suggested, it could be that somehow the FC, which is by nature, fragile, is being damaged in the tying of the knot. Double unit is pretty reliable.

Bushidos are nice blanks for the money, about at the sweet spot between price and function. As are the Rainshadow Revelations, in my opinion. Are you looking to build cast or spin? If a blank is described as having a lot of backbone for a medium light it suggests a fast or Xfast action? What length do you think you prefer? Sticking with 7 feet?

smallies or largemouths? Good books on Amazon, pricey, but lots of good ideas for both. Search Amazon for "bass fishing flies" in the books category.

Is it possible that the brake dial and the brake ring gear have become disconnected? Here is the schematic. https://dassets.shimano.com/content/dam/global/cg1SHIFSEH/EV/15CAS150HG.pdf

Windy side, side with deep water close to other good looking structure or feature, like and inlet or point or flat.

Yes, I know. I stand corrected.

I would show it to her, compare it to yours, and if a difference, would suggest she could be more careful. Take a pad of some sort, or a chamois along to place the reel on. I wonder if the rod is getting dinged, too? That might lead to a failure under load. There are a lot of reasons to improve the situation. (Tactfully, of course). The gouges on the spool lip might tend to damage the line, consider dressing them off.

I have had dissolving bobbin PFD's for probably 30 years and the only one that went off was in a flooded compartment of my boat. I fished in heavy rain a number of times. Probably had the PFD under the rain coat, but don't remember. Mine were Cabelas and Bass Pro brand, not sure who made them. Not the really expensive ones. I'd say if you can afford the expensive spread, do it. You usually get what you pay for.

Best smallie color I've found is bone background with black irregular splotches on it. Might have to customize a bone lure. Why? I have no idea. Remember too that all the fish see is the bottom.

Thanks A-Jay

We need to consider, however, that A-Jay is an unreformed bank robber who has been doing quite well in the past few years, and most of us don't have the resources to match him. I can only afford to take about 10 in the boat. :-) A-Jay, are those a couple Calcutta 100's in there? My first really modern casting reel. I bought one for me and one for my son.

Fuji makes a quite dark titanium, T-2. One thing to consider if you are like I am, and build for freshwater/inshore cast and spin, you can get along with very few guides if you want to. Another consideration is that with the small guides that most of us use now, finish is less important regarding appearance than it used to be. With the runners, you can hardly see them. For spin, I almost exclusively use Fuji KLH 20-10-5.5M for spin reduction and RV6 for cast first guide. After that, for the runners, they are all Fuji KB's and KT's, size 4 for spin, size 5 for cast. If one were to limit the finishes and ring materials, one would only need to stock 8 different part numbers and could build a lot of different rods.

It is still you even if not perfect. And those who get your rods will appreciate the personal touch. Practice on old blanks.

Could be, but I don't put finish on before applying those decals. I think if you follow the process I suggested you'll have success with that type decal. Make sure you burnish aggressively especially at the edges and use some CP. Always works.

The main thing is to get a rod that meets your expectations for not only action and power, but weight as well. The down sides of glass, in my opinion, is that they are often too heavy, and the butts are often very large in diameter giving them a bulky feel. They graphite/glass hybrids can be very good and avoid the problems of glass, and as pointed out earlier in the string, you can get any action and power in any of the materials discussed, so the criteria I mention might be the deciders.

The issue here is that the subjective power and action descriptions are very unreliable and even blanks within the same manufacturers' selection that are called the same power and action are not in fact the same. Some of this is because they are pointed towards different techniques. For example, I received a "medium" power "drop shot" blank with a measured CCS ERN of 13. That is well below the "medium" power CCS ERN of 19 for one of their crank bait blanks. I often receive surprises in the blanks I buy. I just build them for what they work best at and use them for that or give them to charity or kids if I don't need them. But I test them all and learn at least something from them. Unless the maker specifies CCS values you have no way of knowing what you are going to get. Kudus for AnglersResource for specifying CCS on their Point Blanks and Rainshadow for doing it on their RX10's.

The 701MLF is my favorite finessse rod, and the favorite of a friend I built one for. To put the power into perspective, it is a little more powerful than the St Croix SCV70MF, and a little faster. The St Croix is a great finesse rod , too. I use it mostly for tubes and snapping 3.8 Keitech swimbaits off the bottom + occasional light cranks and Neds. Since it's pretty fast, it's also pretty versatile on lure weights, going light very well. I would go with the 701MLF rather than the 701LXF. It will cast the light stuff well and have a little more power for pulling the fish away from the docks. I have a Tatula 3000 LT on mine, and it's a great light weight outfit. This pic is built the same way as the PB, but is not in fact that rod. Both the PB's are a lot faster than this, so they will be different. Digesting the 475g that you mention for the Megabass, I still would go with the PB701MLF. Its limber tip for its overall power will cast the light stuff very well.

The significance of them is that fish like to have close access to deep water when they are feeding on flats or weed edges, so they most likely will use them as refuge when they leave shallow water and going to and from shallow water. I would check them out regularly, and the shallows (meaning the less deep flats between them) close to them.

Should be good, but 4 in 1 is pretty cheap and it works just fine. If in doubt, go new.

I have never liked the location of the hook keeper where this rod has it. Puts the lure very near the hands, and when fishing the keeper contacts the hands at times. I've never found a better location than just in front of the front grip at 180 degrees. It would not be difficult to put one up front and remove the rear one if one wanted. I suggest trying it as is if you buy it You may like the location.

How would you rate the hook sets with it? And what size do you prefer. (The secret is coming out!) thanks,

Don't mix up power and action. The ML is a description of power, and fast action is a description of action, where the rod initially bends when loaded. A fast action rod can have any power, from ultra light to heavy and beyond. I expect a ML (medium light) power is about what you are after.