MickD

I'm a big fan of the Tatula LT, but when in need of another I have not been able to find one. So I "settled" for a Fuego, and in the hand I cannot tell it's any different in function from the Tatula. Very light, very smooth, drag seems good, bail trip action seems just fine, even sounds the same as the Tatula. Anyone have any credible info on what the difference is between the two reels? Other than about $100 in price?

The above is possible. Another possibility would be to cut off the butt cap and insert a tightly fitting piece of blank into the existing one to support it. Liberally covered with epoxy. Then put on a new butt cap. Sounds like only the bottom few inches is affected, so this might be the least disruptive fix. A pic would help. Keep trying Loomis.

Mono and other monofilament lines (FC and hybrid) have strengths/advantages for certain applications. For example, mono doesn't sink and take a surface lures action with it like FC does. FC is denser, so it makes fishing sinking lures more effective, especially slow techniques. FC is said to be less visible to fish, but that is debatable. While braid is certainly opaque, it is so small in diameter in most pound tests that it may not be visible to fish. Many fish it successfully without a leader. If one doesn't think the monofilament lines stretch appreciably it's most likely because they have not used the alternative, braid. Braid has almost no stretch, an order of magnitude different than the monofilament lines of all varieties, so it is better for feeling subtle bites and it's better for hook sets. It also lasts longer with premium braids often good for multiple years of service. Pricey, yes, but maybe not considering their lives. I have one setup left with mono, a light BC outfit I use for surface lures. Everything else is braid with a 4-6 foot leader of mono or FC. To me, fishing mono is like fishing with a rubber band for line.

How do you define "too right?" If it's curling, it's slipping, and it's not tied right. If I use an improved clinch knot with 5 turns, setting it tightly while it's wet, and including setting the tag end tightly, with any mono or FC or hybrid, I don't get curly ends. If it breaks, it breaks straight indicating that it broke, not slipped.

"Curly" usually indicates that the knot is slipping, not breaking. With any monofiliment line, sometimes even with braid. You can change lines, but most likely nothing will change until you change your knot tying process.

Strike King KVD Perfect Plastic Caffeine Shad, either 4 or 5 inch. White (maybe they call it pearl)

Of course not. Does every field have a pheasant?

Flouro, mono, and hybrids all are very "stretchy," so looking for differences between them isn't going to very fruitful if you believe the data an not the hype. More important is that for surface you want at least a good length of mono because it won't drag your surface lure under. FC will. Hybrid somewhere in between. If you want something to be conducive to going deep, FC is the best. Or a braid with a Gore filament to increase its density.

I respectively submit that a blank's optimum guide spacing will be no or little different between cast and spin. The location of all but possibly the first guide will optimally be determined by the reaction of the blank to a load, and that doesn't change cast vs spin. Even the Fuji software which locates the reduction train on spin is so far down the blank that it's line control that governs location, but it isn't that different from a two line stress test. For a 9 guide 7' 3" rod at least 6 of the guides will be in the same location regardless of spin or cast, and other three won't be that far different.

I agree with those who argue that the answer is "maybe." With the specs being mostly subjective one cannot be sure that the power will be the same between two blanks offered by the same manufacturer, both spin. Different series within the offerings of a maker may have different powers. Interestingly a few years ago Point Blank introduced their line of blanks and they simply have the one line, no cast/no spin, just blanks of different lengths, powers, and actions. AND they publish objective power and action numbers, CCS and their own RDA system. After one gets used to either system he just builds with the blank that best matches his length/power/action requirements. If one just has subjective descriptions I think the best indicator of power is the lure weight recommendation. It indicates pretty well the weight range that will cast comfortably, loading the rod correctly without overpowering it. But without the CCS or RDA, it's a crap shoot.

I have had one experience where I'm convinced that white braid spooked fish. My son and I were dragging Super Flukes across the top of shallow weeds for LMB and he was doing much better than I. I either had a very short leader or none, don't remember, so I lengthened it to about 6 feet and started catching fish. I think it's logical to conclude that the clearer the water and the fewer the weeds the more important stealth with the line/leader becomes. But if the fish are aggressive enough it may not matter. I use a leader now with all my braid to keep from cutting into the braid.

I have not found any smb that was too fat and slow to chase a swim bait.

No, not in my opinion. When you use a leader that long most of the time the braid is still on the reel so the sensitivit/hook set advantage is lost. With a short leader, 6 feet and under, you get a little shock absorption but the sensitivity/hook set advantage of braid is for the most part still there.

I didn't say that. I think smb always like some current, regardless of size. But there may not be any big ones around. They may have some other place they like better than where you are looking. You are also assuming there are some big fish. Maybe not. The only thing I know for sure is that if there are big ones in the system, they will be where the bait is. Now, where is the bait?

I guess if you can find the other fish and not the big ones, the answer is no. If you are finding the other fish in shallow then I think there may not be big ones with them. I think the big ones stay deeper, the little ones are shallow. But in some waters smallies of any size in summer are very hard to find.

So why use any braid? Just use all flouro line.

It is my opinion, not science, that the problem is in finding them.

Given your history of knot problems I recommend you forget about the FG. There are just too many ways for it to fail, from not being tied properly to slippery braid to who-knows-what. I'm convinced that it works better for the really heavy leaders used in heavy salt fishing, but not so well with the stuff we bass fishermen use. The Alberto is small and if you tie two overhand knots of braid with the tag end after VERY SOLIDLY SETTING the wet knot it will never unravel. Tighten the braid overhand knots tightly too. Of course it is wise to retie the braid to leader knot now and then depending on your use.

Not sure the fish will like the smell it leaves.

Bite the bullet and learn a good braid to leader knot. It will give you the versatility to go either way. I suggest the improved Alberto. Tie it like the charts say, set it very tightly , then add two overhand knots of the braid tag end, tightened. I start with the loop of the leader in my left hand with the loop tag end pointing left, run the braid through the loop, keep holding with the left. Now wrap the braid around the "stem" of the loop, working left to right, seven times around. Now grab it with the right hand at the end of the wraps and wrap back seven times. Put the braid tag end back through the loop parallell to it as it comes into the loop. Now pull on the main lines to start the knot to tighten, pull on the tag end of the leader to close the loop half tight. Now wet the knot and set it tightly by alternately pulling on the mainlines and the leader tag end. You want that leader pulled very tightly to close the loop tightly. Now add the two braid tag end knots, set them as you tie them, and trim. This knot with a little practice becomes a piece of cake and will go through micros nicely with reasonable leader pound tests. I use it with 15 pound test and size 4 micros and it works great. Sensing your knot reluctance I would not recommend the FG, but the improved Alberto is easy and reliable. You really need a leader on your finesse rig to absord some shock (I think you get nice shock absorption with about 6 feet-I don't think you need 10-15 feet. If you're going that long just use all FC or mono), and you are not cutting off your main line every time you change lures. I also am one who has experienced line-shy bass in clear water even with fairly light braids.

I think you will have to have it custom made. I haven't seen a Tennessee handle complete rod in years.

Good call, Baron.

Other options to attach the reel are tennis racquette tape and bicycle handlbar tape. Both have good grip and look good.

Any idea where one might buy this color? I've looked at a lot of sources and think it may be discontinued. One can always paint one. Looks like a blue with glitter? Or metallic blue?

Ike's Smash of the Rapala DT series