RandySBreth

I have all three versions of the BPS Rods, the 8', 8'6", and the 9'6" too. For float and fly, I'd go with the 9'6" model. It is a tad soft for my tastes, but works good to protect light lines. One that has more backbone is the slip-bobber rod in the BPS Walleye line at the bottom of this page:http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_74432_100002005_100000000_100002000_100-2-5 It's telescoping (like a flippin' stick) so it fits most rod lockers. And don't forget the rods meant for Crappie, lot's of those around that would work, too. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SportingGoods?RequestAction=advisor&RequestData=CA_CategoryExpand&UseSheet=&ResultsPerPage=25&CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FFreshwater%2BFishing%252F%252F%252F%252FRods%2F%2F%2F%2FCrappie&OrigCatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FFreshwater%2BFishing%252F%252F%252F%252FRods&AttribSel=&submitted=yes&cmSType=N&viewastext=false&eaport=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.basspro.com%2Fwebapp%2Fwcs%2Fstores%2Fservlet%2F&storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&categoryId=100002004&deptId=100000000&subdeptId=100002000&ea_sortDirection=&ea_sortColumnName=&currentpage=1 http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/index/index-display.jsp?id=cat20238&navAction=jump&navCount=1&cmCat=MainCatcat20166&parentType=category&parentId=cat20166

It's possible to add enough weight to a floater to get it to suspend (that's how the first suspenders were made way back when for Winter Bass in the Ozarks after all) but like a couple of folks stated - it's far easier to just buy a suspender to start with. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?mode=article&objectID=30486&storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1

Maybe in other areas of the country it's different, but here in the Ozarks with the extreme water clarity of our lakes "tuning" a suspending jerkbait so it suspends perfectly, neither floating up at all or sinking even a tiny bit - is very important. I often catch good fish by letting a bait sit by a piece of cover for 30-seconds or more, but the lure HAS to suspend perfectly. So I use Storm Suspend-Strips or lead flytying wire. Either works. Rapala XRaps tend to float up in the very coldest water, which is fine, because you can add weight to most lures to get them to work perfectly. The more "Boutique" lures like Lucky Craft Pointers suspend almost perfectly, but even older mainstays like the Rapala Husky Jerks and Smithwick Suspending Rogues can easily be "tuned" by adding weight. Some fisherman swap hooks out with bigger, heavier sizes. Screwing around with split ring pliers and spare hooks in the cold isn't much fun, you can adjust weight with lead much easier and get it exactly right in far less time. You'll have to try the lure at boat side to see how it suspends. Cast it out 15 feet or so and reel it in just close enough where you can clearly see it, then watch as long as you can stand it. Needless to say, polarized sunglasses are a must. A lure that floats up very slightly isn't too hard to see, but ones that barely sink are subtle and hard to spot without staring at them for what seems like an eternity out there in the gray winter cold. Luckily, this time of year there aren't to many folks around to see you blankly casting a lure a few feet from the boat and peering at it for a long time. If a lure sinks pretty quickly in 40-degree water, I take it back. You can always add weight to lures that float up, but I haven't had much success with ones that sink quickly in cold water. In very warm water most suspenders sink slightly. How to add the right amount of weight? Using either stick on weights or lead wire winds up being a trial and error affair. Lead wire is the easiest, I usually try a piece about 2-inches long stuck through the front hook hanger and twisted once, cast it out, and remove lead as needed until it suspends perfectly. After you're satisfied it's right, wrap the lead around the hook shank. You can use a dab of superglue to help hold the tag end in place. Stick on lead is a little more tricky, dry the part of the lure right behind the bill before you stick the weight on, and either stick on more if it floats up, or use a knife to cut small pieces off as needed to get it right. Again, after you get it right, a dab of superglue along the edges will hold it in place a little better. That's about it. there is a huge learning curve with jerkbaits. Everyone does it slightly different.

The Husky Jerk is really great in colder water, and the XRap tends to do better as it gets closer to the spawn, and in warm water, too. Usually. Like was stated before, the subtleties of suspending jerkbait fishing call for as many choices on deck as you can carry. You just never know what will be the key bait. As long as I'm not in charge of production or relying on the bottom line of a company for my income, I'm happy they are staying "diversified", and I'm excited by all of Rapala's newer products, even if they "overlap" some older ones.

RoadWarrior is right on about the rod/reel options. I'd stick to one spinning and baitcasting rig, and maybe if that outfit you have is pretty good you could spend more time looking at lures. One thing that hangs most folks up is trying to use a new lure (or lure type) when it isn't the best choice for the time of year and water temp you are dealing with. There are several types of lures that work year-round (jigs, soft plastics, some cranks) but some others (like buzzbaits) really work best during a certain time of year. I'd start reading the articles here, and also at other places on the 'Web about Late Winter/Early Spring fishing. Buy a couple of the lures that keep popping up in every article, and learn how to use them. Do this as the year progresses and you be pretty well outfitted by this time next year. Next year, stock up on the ones you know work for you, and then start trying new ones. Just an alternative to going and buying tons of lures you aren't sure about.

Suspending Jerkbaits.

In-Fisherman for multi-species. Just Bass? Hmmm. Not sure.

Sweet. That's using your brain. I'll try that one.

I've used everything from Matzuo baitholder weedless hooks to "Bass Bug" hooks that I made weedless by my own craftiness, like the Tiemco 8089 or the Gammy B10S. Guitar string wire, thread, flytying vise, a tiny bit'o skill. ;D

Probably the closest thing you'll find to Fusion now is Fireline. I have several bulk spools of Fusion (Bass Pro outlet store is my friend) but Fireline is much, much better than Fusion ever was. Doesn't fray and bleed color as bad, and holds up better.

The only part that is really dangerous is the hot lead itself. You just have to be careful. Lead exposure isn't an issue if you don't smoke or eat after (or during :) casting, and have plenty of ventilation. I mostly cast bullets but I do pour some jigs, and why do I do it? It's fun, economical, and like lot's of other things I do, simply because I can. The most dangerous thing most people do every day is drive their cars. Pouring jigs? Meh.

The animated knots link RW put up there is a good one, just look at how the Blood Knot's tag ends are 90-degrees to the line in either direction. Helps with any issues of the knot hitting the guides. A well tied knot, whether Uni-, Alberto, Blood, or whatever won't impede casting or retrieving one bit.

I'm mostly using the Smallie Beaver as a Jig trailer, too. The PowerBait Beast in the smaller size is great as a trailer, too. It's wider, and you can get a tube-like spiraling fall out of a jig with it as a trailer - deadly for dock-skipping.

Like everyone else pretty much covered, longer rods + bigger spools=longer casts. A 7' rod may actually be enough of difference over the 6'6" you're using now to make the reel or line choice a non-issue. I've been using a lot of 7'6" to 8' spinning rods recently, you can cast into the next county, but most Bass guys aren't comfortable with anything over 7'.

I've used wacky-rigged plastics for a long time. When the Senko came out it took a while before I started wacky-rigng this type of bait, but I'm sure glad I did. I use a couple of different hooks for wacky-rigging, one is a Matzuo baitholder sickle, with a wire weedguard, another is actually a Bass Bug hook from Tiemco that I add a wire weedguard to. I've been messing with the Gamakatsu B10S, another Bass Bug hook, and adding a wire weedguard to it has been working out pretty well. I'm using Dingers, Tiki-Stiks, and Stick O's mostly.

One of my favorite inexpensive rods is the Micro-Lite 7' Med/Light 2 piece spinning rod. For small stream Smallmouths that rarely go over a pound, or for Rock Bass it's perfect. Great for Crappie, too. Like was said, the ones that are rated as 'Light" are light action. The float'n'fly rods are good deals, too.

Super glue is a must have for plastics in my opinion. You can make sure the trailers don't slip (Powerbait or Gulp is notorious for this) or repairing baits. A dab on knots, whatever. Unless you are using the cheapest plastics, are sponsored, or have a "sugar momma" you try to make things last a little longer. Or I do. Don't know about you guys. :

I know a guy who buys tons of close-outs and clearance stuff at the Bass Pro Outlet Store (just up the road from me in Springfield, by the flagship store) and re-sells the stuff on Ebay - at close to the retail price, of course. Makes a killing. I barely have enough time to fish let alone run a side biz like that.

Lots of 'Wally World" stores clearance fishing stuff this time of year - a good time to stock up if they have some good deals.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_10201839_100002002_100000000_100002000_100-2-2 Sorry - I couldn't resist! I found 6' BPS "Extreme" spinning stick, but couldn't find any 5'6" MH anywhere I looked. You might have to go custom.

If you look around you can find good hooks. Mustads' Ultrapoints are great hooks for less money than some of the others. I think Owners are a good deal too - very sharp and not too expensive in bulk packs.

No, no bottle to fix those Toggs, the are only for guests on the baot who foolishly don't pack their own gear. I'm down with the rain shell like was just mentioned.

I'll give a dissenting opinion on the Frogg Toggs. I think they are fine to keep around and use every so often, but mine wore out after one rainy season. Leak right through the wear areas of butt and knees and shoulders. I'd go with the Columbia ones mentioned over the Toggs.

I go back and forth between several knots (J-knot, Alberto, etc.) but mostly for my Bass fishing I use a Blood Knot,http://www.animatedknots.com/bloodknot/index.php and to further complicate things I tie a Spider Hitch http://www.marinews.com/Spider-Hitch-434.php in the end of the superline ( I use Fireline a lot, which isn't braid) the Spider Hitch doubles the thinner superline, making it a very strong knot. Yes, it's kind of a pain, but compared to flyfishing and dealing with all that knot stuff, it's pretty easy for me.

My solo canoe, an Old Town "Pack" with half scraped-off duck hunting camo. Handy and light like a kayak, but with better storage and seating position: I picked it up at the Bass Pro outlet store for less than half of retail, it was a display model with only a few scratches.