RandySBreth

It's a balance thing - heavy lures are easy to throw on casting gear, but to throw very light stuff far spinning is the way to go. For anything above 1/4-ounce and if distance isn't a big thing just keep on with the casting gear. Just keep fishing and more distance will come.

Every seems to jump on the "new" but like Raodwarrior said the Suspending Rogues still work, and the Rapala Husky Jerk is still one of my favorites. In either the silver/Blue or Tennessee Shad in size 10 it's one of my all-time best Bass producers in winter at Table Rock or Beaver. I also like the "Helsinki Shad" which is basically "Sexy Shad" color. The size 10 has two trebles and I like to dress the rear one with feathers like the XRap - I think it helps a little. I almost forgot - my current avatar - look close and it's an original Suspending Rogue.

I like SmallJaws rubber "lead stopper" idea - hadn't thought of that. Sorry about the lack of pictures sarcazmo - maybe I'll get time to do them this weekend and clarify some of our idea's.

I wanted a double wire weedguard grub head in 1/8 or 3/16 so all I did was take the weedguard pin for the casting jig mold and cut it off so it would be flush with the edge of the cavity, and I also sanded it down so there would be enough space for the wires to sit up beside the pin. No need to modify the mold, just the pin. I need to take a picture of the mold and pin, but I think you get what I mean. Maybe an easier way would be to buy a regular mold (no weedguard) and cut a very small slot for the wires. I think I'd do it that way.

It seems like almost everyone thinks standing up in a boat is the only way it's possible to fish, but once you get down into Kayaks and Canoes (and even John Boats) one that will be stable enough to stand and fish will also be pretty heavy. My thinking is that once something is heavy enough to need a trailer to haul it and launch it, you might as well get a John Boat that's just a smaller version of a "real" Bass Boat. I fish out of a solo or tandem canoe hundreds of times every year and although I can stand in the tandem I really don't. I do realize that you way want to flip or pitch, and where I fish from little community lakes to Beaver and Table Rock there's tons of docks that I skip lures up under - much easier sitting down closer to the water.

Wacky style. Only way to go. Use a weedless hook and you're good in heavier cover, too.

I just looked up the specs on that - yeah, 84 pounds is kind of getting into what I call "heavy as a barge" weight.

About 7 or 8 for each end.

You could also go the solo canoe route - Dicks has the Old Town Guide 119 for 429.http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11544093&ab=ACLN1_PaddleSports_ShopBy_Canoes&cp=4406646.4413993.4417832 I don't like the seat on that one, but they're not to hard to change out and modify. One of the guys on my local forum did this:http://forums.ozarkanglers.com/topic/24289-guide-119-seat-mods-take-two/ https://www.google.com/search?q=guide%20119%20mods&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=np&source=hp Anyway - depends on your style but I don't care about standing but do care about more secure dry storage so I like the solo better. I know some people who have the Bass Pro Ascend little kayaks and like them O.K. - I don't have any experience with that one.

I use these on a tiny 1/16 jig for Rock Bass - http://lurepartsonline.com/Shop-By-Category/Crappie-Pro-Plastics/1-5-Crappie-Craw.html

I throw them a lot. I like them mostly for shallow cover but I do use some heavy (1-ounce) slow rollers in deeper water too. Let the fish tell what they want. Keep one tied on and try it when you're catching them on something else. Watch that video Glenn linked to - it has all of the basics and some good tips. Another short but good one: http://video.fishingclub.com/video/Kevin-VanDam-Strike-King-KVD-Sp

O.K. - I like that one. Otherwise it would be "less prone to weed fouling than the other thing". Or something. Semantics.

It is a Teflon based gun oil - so yes, that's pretty much what it was designed for.

Another Beaver Lake fisherman here - my In-Laws live in Beaver Cove near point 5 (between the Clifty's). I visit at least half a dozen times a year and I fish out of my 17' aluminum and my solo canoe, too. In the solo I tend to stay in the cove, but I have paddled all the way to the back of both Cliftys. Anyway - I like finesse jigs and shaky heads around docks, and I use smaller swimbaits and cranks a lot, too. I've been using compact (but heavy) spinnerbaits more and more - in rainy or cloudy weather you can get a good bite going on windswept banks. Early morning is topwater time this time of year. Of course in cold weather it's suspending jerkbaits.

I like it - I do use a softer rod that I would have used with mono - medium power most of the time, and only MH with really big 1-ounce slow roller types, and more of a crankbait rod (softer tip) since I can get a good hookset with the braid by just reeling down a bit and pulling the fish to me - no need for the "Bubba" hook set.

I use straight braid - usually 10/40 or 12/50- 65 - never had a problem with braid in even the clear water of Table Rock. Guys are now using striaght braid on the umblella rig here and still get lit up.

I like PB&J here on Table Rock or the local Smallmouth streams in every water color except completely muddy. It and Rusty Orange w/Green Pummpkin are my two "go-to" colors.

I think it's thread (or wire) tension that makes the flair. It's not gonna happen with a regular collar - it'll have to be hand tied with thread or wire. You'll have to walk a fine line between getting it to flair like that and cutting the strands. Look up "spinning Deer Hair" like you do to make Bass Bugs - plenty of tricks to get it to flair like that and the technique should be about the same.

Another Norman Fat Boy tip here. Also try a Bomber 4A in deeper spots - it floats up quicker than most other cranks so you can bang a stump multiple times if you do it right.

That's a good rig with the treble for open water - for snaggier areas I like a 3/8-ounce or heavier weedless jighead. Weedless but you still keep the swimming action, and rarely miss a fish.

Using a mono or fluoro leader on superlines makes for just enough stretch - that and a softer rod. I use 4/15 braid, or 4/10 Fireline with a 10-pound-test fluro leader for Cranks and can cast smaller cranks a mile.

I use cheap mono backing because it makes it easy to spool the right amount of braid - just spool that cheap stuff till your reel is full, then go outside (to the park if you live in an apartment) and tie the line to a tree, mailbox, etc. and walk back longer than your longer cast and add some more for good measure. Cut the mono there and tie in the Braid and fill it back up. I've never been "spooled" either, and using 60-80 yards of the "good stuff" instead of spooling the whole reel really helps stretch the line budget. When it gets where I can see the backing on long casts it's just time to fill it up again - no big deal.

A 2nd on the Mudhole MHX blanks. Best buy for your money. Another thing is they have the guide spacing chart for each blank right there on their website - that helps a new builder a bunch.

7' Medium or Medium/light is about right - but I'd get a bigger 3000 size reel. You'll have less line issues and the larger spool (all other being equal) will allow longer casts.

This.