Way2slow

J Francho, I hope you fair better than me, about 12 years back, this quack I went to did all these nerve test and said there were a couple of things that could cause my problem, but didn't make any attempt to do anything to actually identify it. He wrote me a prescription for some medication that he said might help it, but insurance companies wouldn't pay for it. It was only $1,200 a month. Needless to say, I didn't go back or get the prescription filled. I was told there is a problem with a certain protean in the bold that attacks the nerves. Don't remember exactly, but mine has gotten so bad, I can have a shoe come off and not know it. My feet and legs are almost numb for the knees down, but get extremely sharp nerve pains.

I have bought three Primary Arms scopes last year and have been very satisfied with them. They seem to offer the most scope for the buck of anyone else's I looked at and I liked the reticle they have. They also give a Military discount on items not already on sale, so that helps also. That Red Dot you picked has good specs and a small dot, and I don't think you will find a problem with their quality, based on the ones I've gotten. They were actually a lot nicer quality than I was expecting for sub $500 scopes. If you check, I found a picatinny/weaver rail made for the 10/22 for mine with the center milled down so you can take the optics off and still be able to use the factory, open sights. All other mounts I looked at block the sights so they were not usable without taking the mount off. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tactical-Rifle-Ruger-10-22-Receiver-Picatinny-Rail-Scope-Mount-See-Through-4-7/222449771938?epid=27012053883&hash=item33cb0a25a2:g:4KgAAOSwttFaDRC5:rk:9:pf:0 Mine was silver and cut a little different but it was similar to this one. Mine had a little wider, square cut slot in it. Also, you may not need one with that sight. I have this personal thing about not being able to remove optics and use factory, open sights. All my scope on quick detachable mounts that give access to the open sights so it the optics get damaged or change impact points for some reason, I can quickly remove it and go to the open sights. I DO NOT use or like see through mounts because they raise the scope to high and makes compensating for that a total pain at different distances.

Don't know why you don't want to spend $500+ to put optics on a $250 rifle that you rarely shoot more than 50 yards with, other than at a piece of paper or something when just plinking. My 10/22 Take Down is the first 22 I've ever put optics on, and the only reason for that is my eyesight and the rifle has never felt right just throwing it up and shooting. I've never felt like spend the time or money to make it fit right. My two main 22's are a Remington 552 semi and Winchester 62 pump gallery gun. Both of those, I don't even need sights on them. My granddaughter bought me the Golden Boy for my birthday last year. I don't shoot it a lot but it also feels great and instinct shooting with it is not a problem right out of the box, and I wouldn't detract from it by sticking optics on it. For the center fire stuff, I have several rifles the scopes cost a lot more than the rifles. I've always been a firm believer in, no matter how good the rifle, it's hard to hit what you can't see. However, most of my center fires are custom built 1960's model 700's I bought cheap, and built them myself, so my biggest expense is usually the barrel. Krieger and Shilen get kinda proud of their barrels. One of my most expensive scope is just for target shooting.

Here's my take on Red Dots. First, you have to buy a good one to get a small mil dot for shooting small things at much distance, 50 yards or more. I've tried several and decided I wouldn't want one with more than a 2mil dot and to get one that has a clean crisp 2mil dot is expensive. I'm kinda funny about being able to see exactly where I want to shoot something. The cheaper they are, the fuzzier and bigger the dot. I usually prefer head shots on most everything so there is no suffering and having to look for it, and when the sight covers 80% of a small target, you're just shooting at "it", not what hair you want to hit. Holographic and Reflex sights are nice (the good ones) but for me to make clean target acquisition I need optic help and for all that, I need deeper pockets. A couple companies are getting reflex sights up around 5X at reasonable prices but the ones I've seen make one big blob on top of your rifle. I've pretty much stick with either open sights, or 1-4x variables on rifles I don't plan on shooting more than 100 - 200 yards. A variable to 15x for mid calibers I might make 500 yard shots with and 8-32x for punching holes in paper at most any range.

How's your vision. Mine sucks so here's what I've found out. I tried a Red Dot that came with an AR I bought and didn't like it. It was one of those el cheapo $50 things and had something like a 4 or 5 mil dot. At 50 yards the dot was the biggest thing in sight. I tried a Reflex and needed magnification it didn't have, couldn't see a dang thing at 50 yards. Definitely was not going to shoot many small critters with it. So, I ended up putting and old Weaver 2 1/2X with 1" tube on it. Mine is the take down with the poly stock so I put the Red Laser made for it that goes on the end of the forearm piece and held with the barrel band. That works great for night critters. Also added a small LED flashlight that fastens onto the small rail section that came with the laser. The funny thing is, I can still shoot better without sights than with them so, even though I'm getting blind as a bat on my near vision, I shoot my Henry Golden Boy as good instinct shooting as good as I do the 10/22 with the scope. Of course, after 60 years of doing it, I should still be able to hit something. That's where I payed to live a couple doors down from a guy named Bobby Lamar, called "Lucky McDaniel" when I was kid.

One little side note. A lot of times manufactures give you two choices, if they do then pick the one suited for your style of operation. If you do very little WOT running, then you should run the hotter plug recommended. If you are mostly running at WOT or make long WOT runs, then you should go with the colder recommended plug.

Go with what the manufacture recommends and you can't go wrong.

I guess for all the pro fishing people, Mike is the one I have the least liking for. I know since he almost got kicked out of BASS and lost his Ranger sponsorship over his fit he pitched and ripped a flag off his boat and threw it on the ground he has calmed down some, but still has too many kid antics to suit me. Granted, I know he's a very good fisherman but is a long way from having a professional attitude. sorry, just don't have a desire to watch anything he does.

Wrong time of the year to be getting sick, I feel for you. My wife's grandmother could put most master chefs to shame when it came to good old southern style cooking and my wife learned pretty well from her, so we usually have those huge spreads of several meats and numbers of vegetable's and deserts for thanksgiving and Christmas eve. Enough food to feed and army and all the kids and grandkids start asking a month before, if she is going to be fixing dinner. I also do a lot of cooking but my thing is more along the lines of gourmet Italian dishes, various breads and fancy deserts. Just got through making Alton Browns killer coconut cake I've been making for a couple years now. Coconut if my favorite cake and his is the best I've ever eat, however, it's not that easy to make. After living it Italy for almost six years, I feel in love with traditional Italian cooking.

Should not be a problem starting and running it on a hose "BUT" I would not run that old gas in it at the lake. This crud we have for gasoline now does not store well and may cause you some serious engine damage. Had a fuel stabilizer, like SeaFoam or Stabil" been added as soon as you put the gas in the tank, if might have helped, but 6 months after the fact does no good. I would not even run it had it been stabilized but I won't run even gas that's two months old with stabilizer in it. Since most people don't realize the problems old gas can cause, and have a hard time discarding $75 worth of it, they run it, but the first time running old gas bites you in the butt, you will learn. Actually, the motors built between the mid 80's through late 90's handle it a bit better because the manufactures dropped the compression so much to make room for lower octane gas. However, because of EPA and fuel economy, the new electronically controlled ignitions leave very little room running old gas

Way back when, most all boats used open cell foam, because at the time, it had the highest floatation rating. Over time, they found that boat left in ways they could have water left in them, the foam became saturated and didn't dry out. I think they all have changed to closed cell for a number of years. As for wood, about all I've seen in them is the piece of plywood they use in the transom, and since it not totally encapsulated like in glass boats, it's dries out and is not as bad to rot as glass boats are. Then you have to power of Advertising. Both are probably similar quality boats, but BPS carries the Tracker and they have the dollars to make it sound like the best boat on the planet, and are everywhere. The only place you see many Lowe boats are the small jons stacked outside Walmart every spring. That give people the mind set they must be cheap boats. When you can buy a 1436 for $600 or so, I chose the Lowe every time, have a couple of them.

It dam sure ain't gizzard and hearts. About the only way I want to see those on my plate is chopped up in giblet gravy sitting on a pile of cornbread dressing. One of my favorite meals is a thick, fried breaded, pork chop, turnip or collard greens, mashed potatoes with brown gravy, and purple hull crowder peas, a with a big wedge of cornbread and a glass of fresh buttermilk. A little peach cobbler with a scoop if vanilla ice cream on top for desert.

Just come up with a way to attach the golf ball to a line. Then you can cast the ball and keep you casting skills in tact while your waiting. Beside, get to playing too much golf and you'll end up wanting a new set of clubs, look that what that will cost.

Couple of things you need to realize about them. They are not totally water proof. When you add grease, you only add enough to float the center piston so there is some spring pressure, but not all the way out to where the spring is fully compressed. If you put too much grease in them, when they build up road heat, the pressure can push them off, so when you get where you're going, you're looking at a greasy spindle and nut. If nothing else it will make one greasy mess inside your wheels. They have a small relief hole that's supposed to prevent over greasing and excess pressure. Bras help keep the wheels clean if you don't put too much in a it push the bras off. The best time to grease them is just before launching your boat after a long road trip. The springs can have pushed that center piston to the bottom and when you back your trailer into that cold water, it creates a suction that can pull water into the hub. Over time, this turns the grease inside the hub to a milky mess and eventual bearing failure. That's why you should still clean, check and repack your wheel bearings ever so often, I do mine every spring, just before the spring push starts. I also fish during the winter, that's why I wait to spring. If you don't winter fish, it's best to do them in the fall, so any moisture that might get in doesn't have time to sit there and rust your bearings sitting all winter. Then there is also the possibility of a seal failure that you might not catch until your wheel passes you going down the road and you're stranded on the side of the road with the axle dragging the ground. A couple of hours each year can save you a whole lot of trouble when you don't want it. As for life span, I've been running Bearing Buddies or Red Eye's almost ever since they came into existence, (a long time) and have only lost a few in all those years. My Javelin is a 1999 model, has a tandem axle trailer and has made numerous round trips from middle GA to south Texas, about 2,500 miles round trip and couldn't begin to count the local trips it's made, and during this time, I've lost two off it. That's taking them off every spring and doing the cleaning, inspection and packing, so they have been on and off at least 15 times. You just need to learn how to take them off and put them in a proper manor. I do keep a spare in the boat though, but I also keep a spare spindle and hub assy, just in case bad things happen. I also keep a grease gun in the battery compartment so I can give them a shot after a long pull before launching. Almost 55 years of towing boats umpteen thousands of miles, I've never been stranded on the side of the road with a bad bearing. Another word of wisdom, when you clean and pack your bearings, after each time you tow the boat give them a small shot of grease the first several times, even if you only went a coupe of miles. When you reassemble things, you are going to have air trapped in the hub, and will get pushed out as you tow it.

Sounds like it's crying time again. If it broke a reed and ingested it into the cylinder, that can do some major damage to the piston, head and cylinder. Cost to repair can exceed the value of an older motor. B.O.A.T is probably not going to get it.

I don't usually get into these home construction projects because there are a ton of suggestions and ways that it can be done. However this time I will suggest you follow the recommendations on using aluminum, especially since you are only working with a 14' boat. Aluminum is going to make a much stronger and lighter deck than 2x's and plywood. Yes, it's going to cost a little more to purchase some aluminum bracing and a sheet of piece of 16ga flat for the deck. With proper bracing, 16ga is more than strong enough. For bracing, you can use angle or box and it does not have to be large massive pieces, you are looking at few pieces no more than a couple feet long. Use 3/16 pop rivets or aluminum rivets you flatten with a hammer with washers on the crimped side, screws have a tendency to rip out over time Should mention, don't use pop rivets any place close to or below the water line, they leak. It's really not much more expensive that wood, and If you are on a tight fishing budget, just hold off and few day doing it and buy a little at the time.

The only thing carpet does is sound deadening. Move around or drop a weight or something in a tin can and that noise carries a very long way in water. Now, if you feel fish aren't spooked when they hear those noises, then no, you don't need any kind of sound deadening.

Sometimes I make too many assumptions. I assumed you didn't have a good digital voltmeter and don't know how to use one. If that was the wrong assumption, it's easy enough to eliminate the battery as being the problem. It will most likely require two people but the next cold morning take a couple of readings, this can be done in the driveway with it in a tank or on a hose. Connect a digital voltmeter across the two battery post. That's the battery post, not the connecters connected to them. Depending on the battery, you should be seeing 12.6 to 12.8VDC if they are good and fully charged. Now, without moving the meter leads, try cranking the motor while watching the voltage. If it's dropping below about 10.6VDC, that battery does not have the necessary cranking amps. I personally don't like them to drop below 11VDC. The voltage drop is sole determined by the size and condition of the battery and the cranking amps being applied to it. Now, if the voltage drop is not too great and it is holding voltage, move the meter leads off the battery across the two terminals connected to the post and try cranking it again. If the voltage drop is more there than when on the post, you have a bad connection on one of the terminals. Next test would be connecting the negative test lead to the engine block someplace you can be sure you are on bare metal. Connect the meters positive lead to the terminal on the starter solenoid the battery cable connects to and try cranking it. Again, you should read the same voltage you were reading at the battery. If not, then you have a bad connection, either ground or positive at the solenoid or something in between the two, like a disconnect switch or something. If things are good to that point, move the positive test lead to the starter terminal and try it. You still should be within a couple tenths of what the battery had, if not, either the starter solenoid has a bad contact or the starter cable between the two. Now, if you find voltage drops, it's easy to isolate if it's ground or positive by leaving on lead on the battery post and going up the current path with the other lead until you find the drop. If you don't find it with that lead, swap them, at the battery post and start going up that post's current path until you find the drop. Now, if you want to make a quick check, read across the battery to make sure the voltage is good, and then between ground and the starters terminal. If it's still good there then you don't have a battery or connection problem. I still maintain you have a battery problem, or possibly a connection problem at the battery because a good battery is not going to pull down to where it won't crank the motor over, very quickly and the fact you it starts on jumper cables. Like I said, I think your are wasting time and money until you eliminate the battery being the cause. Oh, and not cranking off your dually, that's depends on your jumper cables, If you are not using at least, 6 AWG cables with good clamps, and preferably at least 2 AWG, all bets are off on whether or not your jumper cables will crank it. Those $10 - $20 things are not worth the time it take to connect them. .

You can try most anything, but you will probably be throwing your money and time away until you put a new battery in it. DFI motors, like the Opti-Max require a strong cranking battery. You have already diagnosed the problem when you say it only does it in cold weather and pulls the battery down quickly, the battery is junk. A bad battery can still spin the motor but the voltage drops too low to fire the injectors and may not even be turning on the ignition. When a battery is real cold, it only has about half the cranking capacity as a warm battery. Add that to the fact a cold motor is harder to spin, the battery just does not have balls enough left in it to deliver the voltage the motor needs to start. When you put the new battery in, buy a good one with plenty of MCA/CCA, at least a group 27 size. You also mentioned a quick jump and it usually starts. That is a scary situation. It's very easy to blow the ECU connecting and disconnecting jumper cables to a battery. The arc sometimes generated doing that is several hundred volts. Electronics don't like seeing that kind of voltage spike.

Can't find a real tree that's White, and for the past 15 years, that's the only type of tree my wife has wanted. White fake makes my life much simpler also because we could never agree on which type real tree. I always like the cedar trees, and could go out on a land and find a really nice one. She didn't like the cedar, she always favored the spruce out of Canada, which is more than apt to be a limb than a tree.

Having the dealer take care of the problem is definitely the way to go. However, sometimes if it's a simple fix like tightening a hose clamp that's easy to get to is a much more practical solution. The dealer could be many miles away, then you have to make two trips, one to drop it off, another to go back and pick it up, and then you are without the boat during the time it's at the dealers. Also, if it's a leak, and you do need to take it to the dealer for repair, you will know what it is and where so you can piece of mind knowing what it is, and can inspect the area to ensure the dealer did a proper repair job.

As mentioned, loose hose clamp on live well, or bilge pump is not uncommon. What you can do, while it's on the trailer, put the drain plug in and fill it with a few inches of water and see if you see any coming out anywhere around the hull. Just don't put too much water or you can overload the trailer. If you have an onboard charger, make sure it's mounted higher than the water level you add. They are supposed to be water proof, but that's not always the case. Sometimes it more like water resistant and they can leak when totally submerged.

If you are talking about some of these rub on cold blues, What bluing is on the barrel would be better. I do my own bluing for 50 years and have done numbers of pieces for other people but I use a home brewed hot blue made with Lye and Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer. It makes a deep blue black finish, However, this process has a number of dangers since you are heating it to approx. 300F and mixing the solutions creates a huge amount of ammonia gas that has to be avoided. The solution as is, will eat lead so if they are vented rib barrels, depending on how they are attached, the could come off, same with the front sight on none venter ribs. I have reblued a couple 1100's and never had a problem, but that's not saying you won't. Also, there is a lot more involved that just cleaning one to do a nice blue job and to get setup to do hot bluing would cost a lot more than it would cost to have a couple of barrels professionally done.

Normally, renting seems like a large chunk of money for weekend of fun, but for most people, if they did the math for a 12 month period owning a boat and the number of times you would use it, vs what it would cost to rent a boat for those same number of times, renting it is a lot cheaper. Granted the first year of ownership, the boat gets used a lot because it's your new toy, but after about the second or third year, the new wears off and the reality of what it cost to go play sets in, the fun wears off and they sit a lot. Then just before Christmas those people that financed them for half a life time are trying to sell them to get additional holiday money, just to find out because of the high interest and those low payments they wanted, they owe thousands more than they could every hope to sell it for.

As long a you get Champion plugs in the number it calls for, there is no problem Normally, the only difference between marine plugs and automotive plugs is the marine plugs will usually have a stainless steel base, as long as you get the same numbers. I guess you can order from Rock Auto Parts on line. If you can they will have them and usually cheaper than local parts stores.