snake95

This approach is actually suggested by one of the guys on you tube in a video on flishing flukes. As I recall the suggestion is to use a 1/16 or so casting or dipsey sinker.

Smalljaw and others gave me some great input on the "frog" hard walking bait. I assume the yearling walking bait shape is similar though not certain. Check out the link to previous threads below. I found the frog hard walker to feel unstable and hard to walk - but others have found them to be effective, just a tighter walker that a spook. As for livetarget in general, yes I also feel they make quality lures that look cool. I have a buddy that swears by them because of their realism. I personally am cautious about putting too much value on their realistic appearance - if you could take off the hooks and add fins, to us humans - as an influence on how likely they are to be hit by bass. But that's beside the point, the good looks can't hurt. All through 2016 DSG would have periodic sales (once every 2 months or so) on Livetarget frogs and hardbaits - often less than 50% if you bought enough quantity. You might want to hold out to see if they do more in January and February - though baitball lures seemed to either be excluded from the sales or on clearance. No idea why. Hope this helps.

It appears you could get them from regular retailers in Canada (e.g. Cabelas.ca): http://www.cabelas.ca/product/9258/rapala-dives-to-crankbaits I picked up the same lure from one of the Walmart bins too. There were some other Rapala/Storm lures that are apparently discontinued or on the way out such as a "Twitchin Rap" (came out a few years ago, I think) and a non-rattling Rippin Rap. They've also had clackin' raps and crankin raps (which I really like). From what I have seen, all seem to be dying Rapala breeds, based on their presence in various clearance sections. On a recent trip to visit my family in Ontario, I noticed that in many stores Rapalas start at $11 or $12 Cdn and are often under lock and key. I can only imagine what a Megabass bait goes for.

Pretty sure you mean this one?

First, I despise gimmicks of all types, and I am a cheap angler and normally wouldn't buy any lipless crank costing more than a good ol' red eye shad. But - I picked up a Livingston Pro Ripper lipless for $5 in the clearance bin at Walmart and it has been my best bait in the last 3 outings, catching bass each time. My thinking was that it looked like a decent, well-made lure and it wouldn't matter if the crazy EBS worked or not. In my first experience, I was tossing weightless stick baits into a cloudy pocket in otherwise clear shallow water, where I could actually see bass cruising in and out. I had no takers so on a whim I basically pitched the Pro Ripper into the pocket and a bass slammed it on the fall. I then made a long cast into the clear bay and ran it fast with my rod tip high, just below surface. I caught another decent bass on a reaction bite. The next time I was out I also caught several bass running it alternately fast and slow. It was only then that I took the time to see if the EBS thing was detectable, and one of my co-workers had a good laugh when he saw me hunched over the office sink with the lure up against my ear. It does croak away - but not loud. Does the Pro Ripper work as a good lure? Definitely! It seems well made and it catches fish. I thought the hooks seem a little undersized but very sharp and strong. I'd say that's a good indication of the quality of their other lures. Does the EBS help? I'm not sure. I actually don't want to believe it does, but it certainly didn't hurt in enticing a bass to strike at least a couple of times when it wasn't hit on a pure reaction strike. I don't like to admit it, but honestly I'd keep the baits.

Guys, I'm in GA - north of Atlanta. They say you shouldn't divulge too much online - hope nobody from DSG reads this!!! Seriously, I'm a frugal angler and it kills me when stuff is overpriced. I've come to like senkos as much as the next guy, but as is a common refrain on here - c'mon, we are talking cigar-shaped plastic here... I was visiting family in Ontario Canada last summer and in some stores Senkos were $10+ (CDN) and regular rapalas like Husky Jerks and Originals were kept behind locked glass. For real. Anyway hope some of y'all get some good prices on senkos this week and remember to check they ring up properly!

Wow. I just double-checked and two stores in our area are all $6.29 base. 4" and 5" any color. Yikes.

That's really interesting - same thing in two different stores in the Atlanta area. Might be nation-wide. In any case, it's a great deal considering the Dick's base price of $6.29/bag is pretty hard to beat to start with.

Senkos - $6.30 a pack, buy one get one free. No quantity requirements. Actually all Yamamoto soft baits. DSG until 12/3. Rings up as buy one get one in my store, but the signs are clear as can be, and they adjusted an honored the price. Also in there: Rapala Shadow Raps are $6 each when you buy 3 or more. Not stellar but not bad.

I have been using spinning gear more frequently over the last 6 months, mostly after having some success with the Ned Rig, small plastic worms, and stickbaits. I have also been using spinning gear with a moderate rod for small crankbaits. Most of my reels are "35" or "40" size Pflueger Presidents. The rods I'm using are 6'-9" to 7' long med-lt to medium. I use mostly 10 lb or 20 lb braid, and lately 6 lb - 8 lb mono and copoly. I'm mostly bank fishing for 2 lb to (if I'm lucky) 4 lb bass. Thinking about getting smaller, lighter reels, especially for 10-20 lb braid and light mono. Are there any drawbacks to going with a small size 20 or 25 reel (or equivalent size)?

I am a connoisseur of Yum junk piles at Walmart, myself. I have accumulated a few of these Yum Gonzo grubs in my stockpile, too. The ones I have look fresh off the line, but the Gonzo has been discontinued for quite a while. I imagine mountains of baits in a warehouse somewhere... How are you fishing them? Looking forward to trying them now.

Juice, Money is one part, but it can become a time problem. You can buy too little trying to be frugal, then spend extra time running to get more stuff. Or you can spend a bunch of time obsessively researching and buying, and having a stockpile you can never possibly use. The trick is to find that middle ground. I'll admit that I'm still working on that.

OP, @fishnkamp, the perspective I'm offering is that of a complete baitcasting rookie. I have the sum total of 12 months with baitcasters under my belt, starting out with this Promax3 (actually, a "stable" of 3 Promax3's -- long story). Hopefully it is of some value to the OP and others considering this reel to hear that the way a guy with my background as a frugal beginner feels about this reel after 12 months jibes perfectly with what the seasoned "old pros" are saying.

What fishnkamp says absolutely rings true for me after using the Promax and somewhat more expensive reels. If you can afford it, it won't take long before you want to try a little better reel and the extra $60 or so won't seem hard to justify. I also have a REVO SX (120-160 retail range) and it is a noticeably smoother reel, and not a huge difference in quality (to me) compared to the REVO STX that retails for a fair amount more. However, the Promax does feel solid and works effectively, and as an "affordable reel" deserves credit for that. I would not expect it to last for years and you have to factor that in to your choice.

I bought the Promax3 as my first baitcaster last year. My background is that I fished only spinning for over 3 decades. Right, wrong, or indifferent my rationale was to pick a new entry-level reel from a reputable manufacturer, to try out baitcasting on something affordable and reasonable quality. I have since acquired two more of the same model, and getting into baitcasting has been a success - leading me to buy three more $140-220 reels from Abu and Daiwa, so that is my basis of comparison. From a beginner's perspective I don't regret the Promax at all. In my experience it has been a physically solid reel and was fine to learn on and I can't see taking out of rotation. I would describe the "fit and finish" as very good. It isn't unusually bulky or heavy. Brakes are simple and easy to adjust quickly. The weak point in my opinion is smoothness: there is a slight but detectable lack in smoothness in reeling relative to the more expensive reels, and on one of the reels, the drag seems lacking in smoothness too. When I have the choice, I take the Promax reels out just as often as the expensive guys. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend one. That said, the other guys on here have more years behind them than I do - so they have a better basis of comparison and other good ideas to consider. I have since seen new Lew's and Daiwa reels in the same price range that "looked" as good or maybe better, but didn't look at them closely.

I posted the following on another recent question about Falcon: "I have three of the four from the modestly priced "Jason Christie" series: MH/M, MH/F, and H/MF. They are light but solid rods. Graphics are not flashy. No problems with them. I think they are great rods. They are available at Walmart and TW and through Falcon direct. I got mine this last winter and I am a fairly light user, so maybe you want the input of someone with a longer track record. To sum up my limited experience with these three: "light but solid, performs as expected."

Interesting, this wasn't even on my radar. I might try it. Any chance you have compared Senshi to the Yo Zuri polymers, for this purpose? Thanks, Bluebasser.

The one I got recently is an Abu Garcia Volatile 7 ft MM. I haven't really tried it much yet - wound up throwing mainly boxer head jigs with Kietech paddletails using braid w Yo Zuri 6 lb leader, Alberto knot. Worked great for that, but I don't have a track record to speak of yet. Besides, the main objective was to throw my lighter Rapalas, Rebels, Rouges, etc with it. Thanks for the ideas. Cool to see someone who fishes "cottage country" on here. I feel like I am fishing a rubber band when using Stren on long casts. I guess that's not such a bad thing with treble hook lures, but man on those long casts I feel like half my battle is hauling on the line. I often have braid/floro on my spinning reels these days for fishing small plastics, so I will try that, along with some of the other suggestions.

There is a recent thread about selecting a spinning rod for small cranks... I recently got a 7 ft Med Moderate for this very purpose, particularly small Rapalas: floaters, the shallow shad rap (love that bait) etc. Started off using it for small jigs and paddletails with braid, but contemplating switching reels and using cranks as planned. If you use a similar moderate-action spinning rod for small-size cranking, what line do you like and why?

I'm a simple bank guy and new to plastics this year, but after getting some great responses on the forum about where to start, I've been fishing plastics 90% of the time so far. I've mostly used what is cheap and readily available; here's my top 5: 1. The TRD - in every color, but especially Green Pumpkin Goby. Fished on a 1/20 or 1/16 mushroom head. (Per Glenn's video). 2. Kietech paddletails, both swing impacts and fat swing impacts. Fished every which way - really the one lure I wouldn't want to be without: swam on a VMC boxer jighead or Strike King squadron T-rigged weightless and run on top like a poor man's whopper plopper T-rigged, swam and deadsticked 3. Yum Dinger - T-rigged, weightless, and chucked into the midst of any commotion I see on the water 4. Yum Mighty Bug - every color - T-rigged, weightless swam on top, particularly in shallow bays and along weedlines 5. Good ol' Zoom Super Fluke - again with a variety of rigs: nosehooked with a circle hook or T-rigged and fished as a jerkbait or walking bait on surface

I had the same thought - though admittedly I don't get to fish saltwater that often. It may seem strange to recommend a reel you sent back for warranty repair work - but I'm honestly pretty happy with the TWS coastal, and I think the problem was just a fluke. It helped that Daiwa was so easy to deal with and repaired the issue promptly. I'm kind of frugal, and would probably go with the Arid if I could do it again. I would guess you can't go too far wrong with either of these Daiwa options. Good luck with it!

Well, it's not what you asked - but I thought seriously about getting one and went with the considerably more expensive Diawa Coastal TWS instead. Maybe you are also comparing these two? In any case, I think I would've went with the Arid if I could go back again. Well, two Arids, really. The TWS has been a good reel - except that I sent it back for warranty work with the thumb-bar popping up mid-cast. The main differences - I think - are: The TWS has more corrosion resistant bearings The TWS has the T-wing system - the effectiveness of this is debatable. The TWS sideplates are a spectacular blue aluminum. The TWS has great cranking knobs - I'll give it that! In retrospect, none of these are deal-breakers for me personally. The knobs are really nice. But you can buy new knobs and handle any time. I saltwater fish about 3 x 1-week periods every year. The rest of the time, this is for bass. Given the great reviews for the Arid, I'd buy the Arid.

I have three of the four from the modestly priced "Jason Christie" series: MH/M, MH/F, and H/MF. They are light but solid rods. Graphics are not flashy. No problems with them. I think they are great rods.

I re-discovered a selection of 7" dingers in my collection yesterday. I've never thrown those before. I know they are discontinued but I still have a small stockpile. My questions are: Under what conditions do you throw large stickbaits? (obviously, doesn't have to be dingers) How do you like to rig them? FWIW I mostly fish ponds and small lakes for largemouth - interested in all scenarios, but those are the conditions I'm most interested in.

Ok that makes sense. Thanks to tcbass for starting this thread, and these responses, I am putting an order in to replace my damaged all in-one gripper.sale with a gripper and compact scale.