snake95

At the risk of being laughed off of the forum.... why do you guys recommend going with a separate pair of grips and fairly basic scale, as opposed to a combined grip/scale like those sold by Rapala, Berkley, etc.? I have lost and then beaten to death one of each of these combined scales myself in the past two years...

$1 buzzbaits sold right alongside the spinnerbaits work too. I've personally modified them to prevent the blade from slipping, and this mod is easy and it works. See below. I've also added various plastic trailers to bulk them up. Agreed that another good value spinnerbait - for $3 when on sale is the DSG "Banshee." For the record, I agree with the statement that Mr. Francho refrained from making about big box vs smaller companies. But yet I have and use cheap baits from Walmart and others, so I can't say too much...

I fished spinning gear for literally decades before starting baitcasting last year, and then learning how to fish plastics through lots of trial and error this year. Here's my 2c as someone who went through this recently: If you want a baitcaster, get one. Get the STX you were looking at, get any one of the name brand reels (pick a big brand, any brand...) you will find guys on here who prefer different brands (Abu, Daiwa, Shimano, Lews, Pflueger, BPS, the list goes on), many will say get a used $200+ reel.... many approaches to buying a first reel have their advocates on this forum. Where you will find the most consensus is get something in the $100-150 range to start. Personally, I went cheap and under that, and that reel has worked just fine for me so far. Except that I became addicted to bass fishing and to fish different baits more effectively I needed different line and different rod actions at hand, so that lead to more reel buying, and soon "needed" an SX, and an STX, and the list goes on... Above all else, if you have the money and want one, get one. I like new personally, but I'm probably in the minority. The rod is where you are more justified in spending some more research and thinking, in a way. Because the rod and the line are the things you'll find you want to change to suit your lures and fishing methods soon after getting into it. That's why I pointed you to RW's thread first. The short answer is right there: MH/F and M or MH/M (I think?). The lengths could be anything from about 6'-6" to 7-6" (give or take). If it is plastics you want to learn and fish, get the MH/F (honestly, I started with a M/F and have no regrets). The main thing I looked to add quickly after learning wasn't a different reel, or length, or even power, but different rod actions. Having a moderate rod truly makes a difference for "moving" baits and keeping fish on through the fight. And needing at least two actions leads to more rod buying.. For now think about if you are going to use most - single hooks and plastics (F) or moving baits (cranks, lipless, etc.) (M), and then go for it. I'd say most would pick a F rod first, and a M soon after. In short, don't overthink it and get too caught up in the details for that first baitcaster, if you are in the ranges on RW's thread, you are in the ballpark and won't truly regret anything. You might someday wish your 6'-6" M rod was a 7'-2" MH or your 7' MH was a 6'-8" M, or something like that, but you won't actually regret it. You'll just start saving for a new rod.

IN.F.: agreed, though I've found it helpful to try to use them as a reasonable guideline, and this one was so out of whack with everything else about the rod (1/16 oz baits?) it seemed like a typo and caught my attention... .Figured someone would weigh in on this. Thanks. This makes sense, and frankly I made the purchase not believing the specs as printed.

Great to hear, I also ordered one. The Fenwick site show 10-17 lb line rating, which doesn't jibe with the lure rating, or line ratings of similar rods in the Aetos line. I assume the 10-17 lb rating is a misprint?

I'm sure someone who actually has this combo in use will chime in, but the short answer is they can work fine together, and really the STX can work with a wide range of rod styles and lengths. I have an STX and it was one of the reels I learned on last year, coming from spinning. I found it easier to cast than the lower-priced Abu reels. Based on what you have typed, I assume you are looking to cast heavier baits and are new to baitcasting. My suggestion is to go to the "Rod Selection - the Basics" thread by Road Warrior and consider his recommendations regarding basic lengths, powers, etc. for bass fishing, and note their applications. With one year under my belt, I can say that it is really worth thinking about the rod power and even more so, action, considering whether you will be using crankbaits with treble hooks vs. T-rigged plastics with single hooks (to pick two representative lure types suited to different rod actions). I like to use cranks a lot, and would've went with a moderate or moderate-fast action rod for my first baitcast rod, not a "fast." That said, I've come to use my fast rods a lot more, and would be lost without them, now that I understand better how to use plastics effectively. I assume you are looking at the ffo website, which has deals on both right now. Welcome to the forum!

@blckshirt98 can you comment on how much of an issue line twist is, and the relative value of spinshots over the "non-swivel" dropshot hooks?

I have had problems with keeping fish on Shroomz hooks too. Tough enough with the barb. Check out the recent thread below. Based on my experience, I think the most helpful information was that these particular hooks can dull quickly. Honestly I haven't spent enough time acting on the advice to file them (I've mostly been fishing different methods since I put up the post), but I feel like that was the main problem for me. Otherwise you and I are close to the recommended equipment and methods. Obviously, barbed vs barbless doesn't matter if your hook is dull.

Maybe stating the obvious, but it appears that the Aetos line is being replaced by a newer version (per TW and Fenwick sites). Seems hard to tell when they are changing a rod line's graphics vs making minor adjustments - complete overhauls are easier to spot in the specs. In any case, thanks for the post. I went for it.

I looked at that SX too. I'm guessing it is not a gen 3 since the product designation is RVO3 SX. I have the RVO3 SX and have been very happy with it. I didn't go for it since it seems to be a previous generation. They are not always spot on with naming though: Veritos?

That day it worked for me: caught a small spotted bass. Was the only fish I caught that day. I fish pretty shallow spots and like that they float slowly. They give off a tremendous amount of flash. This was in the heat of the Georgia summer. I see them being more effective as the weather cools and they can be worked like a regular jerkbait. That day it worked for me: caught a small spotted bass. Was the only fish I caught that day. I fish pretty shallow spots and like that they float slowly. They give off a tremendous amount of flash. This was in the heat of the Georgia summer. I see them being more effective as the weather cools and they can be worked like a regular jerkbait.

I'd like to challenge you for the title. Caught this guy on the shadow rap shad. Wouldn't fit on my scale. I wanted to post this before, but didn't think anyone would believe it was real. I had a hard time believing it, and I'm the guy that bank flipped him.

Thanks for the clarification, MickD. I meant to type "moderate" in there - I just bought my first moderate spinning rod with the intent of using it for light cranks and Rapala minnows in fairly open water. That's what I'll try next based on your suggestion. Interesting about Ned up north, though I'm not surprised. Clearly Mr. Kehde has been putting out articles on the subject for quite some time and it is obviously popular in many places. In my area of GA I had never seen a TRD in any of the suburban sporting goods stores.

Thanks - that's a great tip, and I was thinking that might be a solution to make the best of the jigs I have on hand. I have a great hook file that I keep in my "lure shop" after watching Glen's video on sharpening hooks, but will put in my tackle bag instead. I wish I could do some MI fishing and hand out TRDs up north. Thanks Team99 and MickD. I just got a 7' med (not ML) and will try that, too.

You are going to get many different opinions on here (thankfully) this forum includes everybody from high school kids with part time jobs to guys that can afford better bass gear than the pros. I'll throw out my 2c into the mix. I have fished for decades too but only got into weekly bass fishing about two years ago. If you are fishing in a boat or with kids (as I do) - my vote is to put the pfd first, or factor in getting one somewhere. I'm a former lifeguard/instructor, competitive swimmer, and canoe/kayak instructor. I can swim. I also wear a pfd if I'm on a swift river or in a boat. I just believe its a smart move. I got an Onyx A/M 24-Deluxe.

This is very helpful and makes sense with my experience (or the difficulties I've had). Also good to hear what everyone is using for rods and line, and how that works with the whole setup. I have a med/light fast that "feels" about right, but good to get the confirmation. Good to get the other feedback about fighting the fish too - though I'm not having similar problems with other plastics fished with other methods - T-rigged worms and craws, wacky-rigs, paddle tails etc. My difficulty is really a significant loss ratio with the Ned rig relative to other plastics and rigs. The Ned is getting a ton of bites, particularly with TRD's - and this discrepancy really motivated my post. I feel like it helps to thread the TRD on off-center so that there is less plastic between the shank and tip than if I was centering them on the head. Knowing about how other guys have had difficulties with shroomz and what everyone is using really helps.

Thanks, Bluebasser, I respect your opinion about the hooks. Thanks for sharing the details of your setup. I feel like not getting a good hookset in the first place is my number one problem, though there can be a lot of factors in the hookset. Most of the shroomz hooks seem to be sharp out of the package, but some seem to dull quickly. I don't want to knock Zman, because it's undeniable they make great plastics and their responses on the forum have been superb. Heck, I've gone around handing out TRDs and shroomz like a preacher spreading the word because I'm so excited about all the bites I'm getting. I'm not a guy who will ever pour his own heads (I'd love to, I just know I won't) - so I'm all ears about alternatives. I have some Owner EWG finesse ballheads that feel like better hooks and are very weedless, but not the ideal shape for hooksets with the tough Zman plastic. Interesting to hear Bluebasser and others using XF (which I'd expect) and generally fairly "stiff" light or med-light setups - with low-stretch lines. Thanks again - Snake.

Some more info: Scott, I would say the ultra-light has had the best landing ratio of the various rods I've tried, and I only used it on a whim. It has a fairly moderate action relative to my other rods with faster tips. Not sure if that is a factor. That's interesting. Honestly I am a rookie when it comes to plastics and just started Ned rig fishing about 2 months ago. so it is not a relative problem for me. More info: Despite being a bit of a rookie, I think I am pretty conscious of keeping my line tight and tip up during the fight. I will say I find I usually have to reel like crazy to maintain a tight line with most Ned bites. 8 times out of 10 they are grabbing it on the fall and swimming away fast - sometimes toward me. I would say my biggest problem might be getting a good hookset because I am scrambling once I feel the fish on the line. As several guys suggested, they often choke the bait and maybe are even hanging on through the first part of the fight without being hooked well. Maybe I need to get a better hookset?

Thought I might have seen this somewhere else, but couldn't find in the Ned Rig resource. I've been doing great with Ned Rigs this summer, fishing the bank in small GA ponds. I've been going around this summer handing out packs of TRDs to my neighbors and intend to hand out more on an upcoming trip. Only one problem - keeping fish hooked! (aside from snagging, covered in a previous thread). I'm mostly using the standard-issue Zman shroomz in 1/20 or 1/16 oz. I've used various line and rod combinations - from an ultralight/moderate with 6 lb mono to light with 8 lb floro/10 lb braid to a med spinning setup with 8 lb mono. My cheapo ultralight has the best track record, but I still loose about 50% of the bass I hook. I often get them close enough to see, or they jump, before I lose them. The guys I've given TRDs to report the same problem. I keep a tight line and drag set properly when fighting the fish. Anyone else have this problem, and better yet, figured out how to overcome it?

A little more praise for TW. I called the day after my order was placed (day after the sale), they not only added items I realized I NEEDED but they also applied the sale discount. And, FFO has an additional 20% off any order over $40. Got an Abu Garcia Veracity in a 7 ft M/M spinning. How did I justify getting a 7' moderate? I like to fish small and light Rapala minnows in fairly open spots from the bank. That and the base price was $64 after markdown instead of the usual $150.

Thanks Preytorien. Simple lack of range could very well be the problem. I will play around with it some more and see if it is a distance thing. In the end, their tech support told me to take one of the two attachment knobs off and to tie to the bottom attachment when casting. Sounds a little hokey but who knows -- they should know more about it that I do, and I haven't really given their fix a solid try at time of posting.

I believe that Martens refers to the knot he describes in several of his videos as the "double Uni" but the consensus seems to be that the "double Uni" is the term for the uni-to-uni line connection knot. I am pretty sure this same knot is described elsewhere, at least in the "knot wars" videos, as the "Burke" knot. Call it what you will... who the heck am I to tell Aaron Martens what to call his knots. Martens is known for using light tackle so I figure he's an authoritative source for an opinion on knots for light floro. I agree with Hattrick I've been using it lately for light lines and small jigs and it is simple and holds well for me.

Wondering if anyone has experience using Vike's tungsten voodoo Carolina weights for Carolina rigging, or mojo rigging? The price seems right for what they appear to be.

Will do. I have been using Red Label as an economy floro to learn with this year, and it works well for me on that. I started using it last year after reading the recommendations on the forum. I now buy it in the large bottles. Thanks for the help.

Me too but I'm saving that write up for another time Looking forward to another great write up. I also have the need for speed. I'm a relative newbie and one of my top learning experiences of 2015 was to find out just how fast a lure can be going and have a bass smash it like a freight train. At one place I fish in particular, where a big overflow/outfall just churns up the water in an already chocolate-brown pond, nothing gets bit after a heavy deluge like a rattling wobbling crank in firetiger burned on a 7.3:1 - that or a big chartreuse spinnerbait!