RocYak

war eagles and SK tour grade are reasonably priced (by todays standards at least) and available at most places. They have good quality hooks and components, and if I see them on sale I'll stock up. I've been using compact spinnerbaits more and the siebert compact has been great. My requirements are basically a good name brand hook, ball bearing swivel, and a reasonable price since pickerel, pike, and smallmouth bend them up pretty good. Only one I'd pay a premium for would be if they brought the T1 titanium ones back.

I'd agree with everyone else. I have two, use them a lot and like them, but I won't be getting more at their current price. I think St Croix BassX is comparable/cheaper and SC Black bass is better. Probably others that are in that $125ish range that would be a step up from the fury.

I've been fishing bladed jigs more and more over the past few years to where I want to get a better rod for it. Up to this point I've always used a MHF (mostly st croix victory 71MHF) with copoly. I think a composite rod with a glass tip seems like the best fit, and so far I've looked into the victory ripn'chatter 72HM and ALX zolo rumble. Has anyone used either of these, or have others in the ~$250 price range I should look into? Any other techniques you like using rods like this for?

I haven't but I've been tempted to try it. I grew up on spinning reels, so drag peeling out without that sound still just seems wrong even after 20 years of using baitcasters. I probably use my zillion more than other reels in part because it has a clicking drag. I'm under no illusion that it helps with fishing, but it does add a fun factor that has me thinking about doing it on a few of my other reels.

I havent found the perfect combo yet, but I'm in the same situation (yak and nothern weather). I take a pair of wool gloves and nitrile long cuff gloves. Cut off the thumb and index finger tips. The nitrile keeps the wool gloves pretty dry. Hand warmers if more warmth needed.

For what its worth, I'll add my vote to making a kydex keel guard. I drag my SS127 all around gravel and concrete ramps. Between the replaceable rear drag plates that bonafide designs in, and the keel guard, all the spots that take the brunt of it are replaceable. I've had the current keel guard on there for 2 and a half years, and I think I have another 3 or so before I replace it. I attached mine with lexel but there are a bunch of adhesives that will work. I also use a truck bed and extender. If the ramp is steep, I get everything loaded and set somewhere else in the lot, then wheel it over on a cart.

I'm sure everyone will have very different opinions, but I like more straight tail style trailers, especially in colder water. So the classic split tail, a spunkshad, or a fluke type. I'd say about half the time I go without a trailer though.

15lb yozuri hybrid is pretty much the heaviest I use, except for a 40lb mono leader sometimes if I'm going to be around a lot of small pike.

I still have 4 left, and they all get fished. I've replaced the skirts on a couple but they are still my favorites. I don't understand why nobody else is making something similar given how much they are sought after.

It's interesting how certain reels hold their value. I have an FJ 2500 and a curado 51e that both sell used for more than I paid for them. No plans on getting rid of either of them though.

While I will never give up my spinnerbaits, I use bladed jigs a lot too. One thing they do differently than spinnerbaits is that you can get more erratic "hunting" action out of them. With the right trailer, whenever there is a change is speed (either popping them out of grass or just giving the handle a quick pump every now and then), they will jump off to the side. Some do it more than others, and I've found a straight tail trailer (spunk shad or similar) top work the best. Most of my bites are doing this. The other two retrieves I use are straight retrieve (it can work but its so-so) or hopping it off the bottom. More of a lift and drag than a sharp pop.

Another bit that can be useful (and either tied off direct to a handle etc or a trolley, same as an anchor) is a drift chute. In the lakes I fish, the wind often blows parallel to the shore, so a drift sock lets you very slowly get blown down the bank, but at a fixed angle and a much slower speed. Easier than lifting and dropping an anchor every time you want to move. Sometimes an anchor is still better though.

I'll weigh in although you've already gotten a wide range of good ideas. First I'd decide if you want to take the "buy once, cry once" approach and buy the best you can afford, or get a basic setup that you may upgrade later. I used a very basic 2D only unit for well over a decade. I mounted it inside the hull (shoot-thru) and it just used it really for showing depth, bottom contours, and bottom composition. This is a huge help if you are fishing offshore and not just casting to visible cover. I've since upgraded to a larger unit with down/side scan, mapping, larger screen etc. Its much nicer, but I wouldn't consider it required. Plan out how you are going to rig everything before buying. It would suck to have a really nice unit that you can't rig up well to get the most out of it. Motors are the same - think through how you will rig it up before buying one. Some kayaks make for a very clean install, others (usually cheaper ones) really just arent meant to have one and you would need to get really creative to make it work. For the size lakes you are talking, I wouldn't consider it required. Temper your expectations, electronics and motors are nice to have but aren't going to be a magic fix that double your catch rate.

I think @Pat Brown has an important point - If you are catching fish shallow during the spring time, you are very likely catching some bed fish whether you like it or not. I will definitely cast to bed fish a couple times if I see them, but I'm not a fan of working over a single bed for 20-30 minutes to force a bite. I'm fine with others doing it, but its not my thing and just doesn't feel right to me. Where I have stronger feelings is tournaments that take place during the spawn, and the bed fish are stuck in a live well for a day, then released miles from their bed. I haven't looked for data, but I have to believe that has some impact on the overall reproduction rates on some lakes.

I'll add in my vote for the daiwa BG. I use the 2000 size, with braid it has plenty of capacity. Doesn't have lockdown drag strength but nice and smooth which is all I care about for spinning reels. With enough effort or negligence, I'm sure you could break any reel but its built like a tank. Full aluminum body, SW rated bearings etc. I use mine on a kayak and wading, so its been dunked and dropped a bunch and still runs great

SMH head and a fattyz. I forget the name of the color, but its basically green pumpkin with blue flake.

Since I'm not an expert on reel design, I won't weigh in too much on how the design matches up to others. I have had 2 of the original SLX in my regular rotation for 4 seasons I think. They are general purpose reels for me and have seen a mix of spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, texas rigs, and frogs. I haven't had any issues with them, and between frog fishing and the occasional pike and musky, I think I've given them a pretty good workout. They don't feel as nice as my other reels (curado, zillion, older daiwa TDZs) but they have done everything I've asked of them.

I should probably experiment a bit more with different trailers, but for me its all about that erractic hunting action and the spunk shad does that. Moderate hunting on a steady retrieve and if you pump the handle quick it jumps sideways. Does anyone know how the chatterspike from zman compares to the spunkshad? I wouldnt mind a more durable option if the action was similar

A daiwa TD-Fuego and a curado 51e are still in the standard rotation. They keep working and I don't feel limited by them compared to my newer reels.

My MVP for the year was definitely a 3/8oz fogy with a spunk shad trailer. Any bluegill type color. Ned rigs and frogs were also in the mix, but the award goes to the fogy.

I fish them in a kayak quite a bit. Standing is preferred, but not always possible/safe (think 40-50 degree water temps). They can still be fished but the "jerk" is more of an upsweep than down when you are seated. Still make sure to keep slack in the line so its a pop and not a sweep. I usually fish a deeper diving jerk when I'm seated to make up for the difference in angle. Its probably a very slightly different action, but I cant say I've noticed a difference in catch rate.

Interesting discussion. I'll add a few thoughts: - I think its pretty likely that at least some of the kayak tournaments are going to start allowing 2 motors in the next few years. Kayak manufacturers are pushing things closer and closer to plastic bass boats, so I'm sure at least some tournaments will follow. You could also sell the NK300 and buy an XI3 if you really missed the spotlock after a year or two. Granted with probably losing a bit of money. - I don't fish tournaments but still would favor speed over spot lock. That said, I'd be realistic in your speed estimates with the new motor. Id guess the XTR130 is probably in the same ballpark as the PA14. I think for real tests that I've seen, that means 6.5mph or so at wide open throttle, and probably under 6 if you want the battery to last all day. Still faster than the AP by quite a bit, but I don't think 8+mph is reasonable to expect.

Interesting. I havent tried glass yet, but on a moderate graphite rod I had trouble getting it to pop free cleanly, so I went back to a MH/F. I was trying to snap it free like I do on the fast action, but maybe it would have been better just straight reeling?

I'm sure there are lots of different opinions and a lot depends on how you like to fish a bladed jig, but if I could only have one from siebert it would be the original fogy. That blade and head combo with a straight tail trailer has VERY erratic action. During a steady retrieve, give the reel handle a quick pump for half a crank and it jukes sideways a few inches. That can get the same type of reaction strike as when you rip it out of weeds, but it can be done anywhere.

Like others have said, "worth it" depends on the individual person. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have done full tear-downs on most of my reels. That said, I've gotten into the routine of doing a quick clean/lube on them once during the season and once in the winter, then every couple/few years sending them to DVT for a deep clean. They come back feeling better than new, and many are over 15 years old and still going strong. Obviously it also depends on the value of the reel, and your mindset of "replace when it wears out" vs "keep it going for as long as possible". I like having equipment and tools with a long history, but YMMV.