hi_steel_basser

Personally, I prefer braid when I am fishing grass. The only reason IMO to use mono or co-poly is for the floating nature of the line. This allows subtle bites to be detected easier in shallower (under 10 ft) water. The braid will not kink, and it is harder for me to detect strikes when the line doesn't pull to the side as easy. In grass, you are fishing by feel, so that is when I go to no-stretch braid. Also, the braid isn't as easy to break off in the grass.

I like a 3/16 oz. for spotted bass- they like a slow fall. For LMB I like a 3/8 or 5/8 oz size. (I bo-leeve I already answered this ?)

I like rattles. I tink they imitate a crawdad. The only time I don't use them is in clear water.

When all else fails, I tie a 3/16 oz spot remover jighead on, thread a zoom green pumpkin finesse worm on and go to shakin'. It works. Better use some Carolina Lunker Sauce with it.

I voted zoom. GYCB is definitely second. I will have Roboworms soon, the bait monkey says so.

Man it takes me long enough to make sure I'm ready for a tourny, if I had to respool all my rods each time... Guess that is why my primary line is still Powerpro. Nothing against braids, but I feel better in clear water if my line is nearly invisible. Therefore, I will respool more often.

Stronger, more abrasion resistant, and it sinks faster. I think it's time for me to run a line test all for me. Evolution vs flouroclear vs gamma vs yozuri ultra soft vs suffix. May the best line win.

What he said.

For that 200 bucks You can have a Johnny Morris combo, rod and reel, and they are excellent for the money. As to the BC rod, you can use all that moneyyou saved on the combo to get a G Loomis.

OK, I get the point, RW. Yozuri ultra soft is the (bleep). I will buy a spool or three and try it out this year.

WORTH IT. For the money, they are great, especially if you buy the combo. I wouldnt buy just rod or reel, in this area, there are other rods and reels of equal or slightly better value.

Lucky craft and zoom. I put that Persuader lures site in my faves after a look.

I voted Shimano and quantum. Abu has the Revo series LP baitcasters on the market now, which I intend to try, along with Diawa reels(which I have never owned).

If you get a Quantum reel, get a PT series. The others have gears in them that aren't built to last.

I wouldn't, NE Bass Man. PT Quantums are great. The others tend to break quickly. Speaking from experience.

What he said. Only mine will be when I get my tax return...

I want to throw my 2 pennies in the kitty. I have 3 spinning reel s in current use. A Symetre, a Catylist, and a Jonny Morris. IMO, the 2500 Symetre does not hold enough line. The 3000 Catalyst is the best. The JM is showing some signs of wear, but it is the most used of the 3. My next spinning reel will probably be a Quantum. I have yet to own a Diawa reel of any sort, so I might try them next.

I'm thinking about trying some of this here Yozuri ultra soft myself, but I'm still confused as to what size I need to buy. What # vs. actual break strength is ok, but I don't know that info about my p-line. I would like to keep the same diameter line or smaller, while keeping the same break strength or greater. HELP!!! ;D

Count me in on trying the Evolution this year.

Try a Shimano Callisto. I have one on my c-rig rod, which I also use for light pitching. It is kinda rough, but the one I have has worked well for about a year and a half. It's only 40 bucks at Dick's. I saw one today at Walmart called a Inertia (I think pinnacle makes it) that looked sweet for 55 or so. That one has 9 BB's, and only weighs 7-8 oz. It was sharp, but I can't tell you if it's any good or not.

P-Line flouroclear is really good stuff, although there are several people here who feel otherwise. I would say that 17-lb Flourocarbon needs to be changed regularly to stop memory. I refuse to leave any line on my reels more than 1.5-2 months, but a heavy flourocarbon would be way too stiff way too fast for my taste. Also, ditto the comment about rigging your senkos perfectly straight and not reel them in too fast. They were actually designed to be a fluke-type bait, so fish them all the way to the boat if you are in an area where this is logical. I like to deadstick them then use them like a fluke for a few yards, then deadstick them again in the next logical place. It's even slower than the regular retrieve, but very productive. Also, if you have line twist, the best remedy for that is to let out the line behind the boat and let it untwist itself.

Throw a shaky head whenever you know bass are there, but can't get them to bite regular presentations. If they are in brushpiles, use slightly heavier line. Worry about getting them in the boat after you get them to bite. I have caught alot of fish that way.

I have ha luck with senkos, speed craws, sweet beavers, brush hawgs, etc.,but the zoom finesse worm and various hand pours that imitate it are my top producers.

I have a TAS flippin stick that the line guide eyes started to fall out of mysteriously after about 6-7 months. Between that and the Pfluger trpon(misspelled intentionally) that broke down after less than two months service, I am a die-hard anti-shak-yer-spear man. These products will not be found in my posession.

I don't wanna hi-jack your thread, Mid-MO, but I have a Premier fiberglass. This rd is unbeatable for deep cranks. But I don't like it for shallow crankin'. I am looking at a G Loomis crankbait rod, can't remembr the number, for this technique and topwater. I guess my point is that the fiberglass rods are only good for big deep cranks.