Bdnoble84

Congrats on finding a healthy (if expensive) outlet to greave. It is addicting for sure. Thats why i havent gotten into soft plastics. Spinnerbaits and jigs are expensive enough.

Yes. The finish is very important as well. I do two overhand knots with the leader tag end. Make sure it doesnt cross o to the knot. 5-6 braid tagend overhands around mainline and leader tag end. Again pull tight and make sure nothing overlaps. 3 overhands braid tagend over mainline. Pull really tight each time. If your knot is kinking from the tension, you got sloppy somewhere. i then trim my tag ends leaving only a couple millimeters exposed of each. I take a lighter and melt the tag ends down flush to the know. This is the key to the knot not being able to unravel.

I really focus hard on the first few wraps. I pull the braid tight in my teeth, pinch the leader tight in fingers as close to the intersection as possible and focus on really tight overlays. Each time i go around i try to catch the tag end with my off hand, pinching where the lines join together. Then i make another really tight overlay. Pay close attention and make sure every wrap works down the leader. If they do not or start bunching stop and start over. This is where you will get a bulge that causes issues. Once you get a good base you can go quicker.

I prefer the super trilene knot, especially for fluoro or mono. I really think that extra wrap around the hook eye is important. Ive especially noticed the benefits pulling out of snags.

For a little bit more you can get a bass x. I absolutely love my ml/xf. It is great for finesse up to 1/4ish. You can get away with 3/8oz hair jigs, but thats pushing it.

Try the alberto as well. I think its allittle better than the uni. Its slightly thinner and stronger and quicker than the fg but not as strong or low profile. I will opt for it when retying on the water sometimes. however, for me if diameter is a concern, fg is absolutely the way to go. It takes practice to master, and i use a lighter on the finish to really make it great. But its worth the trouble. Honestly, once you get the know down its almost as fast as anything else you can tie. Also, i do not see a big need for tying leaders greater than 6 ft long. Just isnt necessary to me.

For me its my custom poisontail mold turned into spinnerbait. But thats because i can make them however i want and i can add in the double wire trailer keeper to boot. DIY might be the road for you too.

Im digging it.

Our local ace has them under habby metals. I bought sum to try cutting out jig blades. you might get some good ideas on the tacklemaking side.

I have not noticed a difference between 4 and 8 strand. Its crucial that you take your time on the wraps. The more tight and orderly are, the better the knot will perform.

My understanding on maximizing casting distance with baitcasters and lighter lures is keeping the spool lighter. Hence spools that are themselves lighter and or shallower. This leads me to wonder when applying backing to a normal spool, is it better to use heavier mono (20+) and take up more space per rotation or lighter 12-14lb. I like to use 20-30lb braid to fluro leader so i dont like overpacking the reel with braid. A. Its a waist of line. B. I want to minimize the amount of digging in the braid will do under tension. I usually dont put on much over 75 or so yards of braid. I may be way off base but i was thinking about it tonight.

Great to know. I was really wondering about that 3/8 ceiling. Not really a concern for me because once im over 3/8 i switch to my mh.

Sold out on mud hole but i did fing it on lpo. thats the exact reason i would make my own crankin rod. Seems hard to find one that is going to really do what i want on the market without spending a couple hundred dollars.

What water temp you start throwing yours at?

How do you like the German Round bends? I have cheaper jewelers pliers and while they get the job done, theg have alot of flex which makes fine bends difficult.

They look awesome. How deep do those run?

I should mention the rod will see time trolling these same baits, not just casting them. But my primary desire is to be able to cast light balsa cranks quite far to maximize running depth and water coverage. The extra length is important for line pickup as well as im fidhing in current and need to manage slack when casting across current.

Thanks, I will check those out.

Im curious what it is about them that you hate?

What is the difference between the two for you?

Honestly I dont think i could get away from a spinning rod even if i wanted to. Certain techniques just wont work short of going to bfs (future goal). But for bc’s i typically run 20lb powerpro to a 10-12lb invizx fluoro or xt mono leader. (Mono for topwater).

These are the two different 1’s I was looking at. Well actually 3. The rod geek considerations are marked with yellow.

Sorry, for casting. I should add i want to keep it reasonable priced. I was looking at the 60-90$ blanks

I’m considering making my first custom rod and im leaning towards making one for light cranking applications (3/16 to 3/8 shad raps, little dt’s, maybe an occasional #7 or #9 original rap). I want to maximize casting distance so im looking at >7ft rods. Im looking at glass/composite rods on rod geeks as well mud hole. Im curious if i would be able to go with an ML/M option or if i should stick to a med power for being able to drive in the hooks and handle the fish better.

I have had this exact same problem. Even when i do get 1 that spinns i have to work it.