FrnkNsteen

How much is this version? Reason I haven't bought a Tat 80 is I don't understand why it is $40 more than any other Tat 100, 150, or 200. I bought my Alphas SV with floating spool for cheaper than a Tat 80.

I have never had that issue with myTatula SVs, but I do with my Zillion SV. I don't know if the Tat SV has the same style spring detent as the Zillion, but I have not been able to identify an easy way to make changing it more difficult. It is a horseshoe shaped spring clip on the Zillion, and may be able to be tweeked, but haven't tried yet.

I use a texas rig when casting into reeds, cabbage, or grass. I prefer wacky around laydowns, docks or rocks. I think either will work in either situations, but that is when I tend to find myself using the differwnt methods. Oh,.. And I will throw texas rigged on either spinning or casting rigs, but typically throw wacky on a spinning rig.

Also,... Manually closing the bail and tugging the line taut is a good habit to get into. I do it with all of my spinning reels. It will help reduce line twist and loops jumping off the spool.

I like the Strike King skipping jigs, mainly due to head shape and the screw style bait keeper that helps keep the plastic in place. I like using a Rage Bug or Bandito Bug due to how flat they are. Not a fan of a lot of Beaver style, or Big Bite Yo Mama style that have a valley down the middke of the bait as the hook seems to tear out the side very easily. In fact, ... I like how Bandito Bugs skip, but the tear out really easily too.

I use more jigs than texas rigged craws. I just dont like how a TR craw tends to roll. I'll offer another suggestion,... When I want a smaller presentation, I'll run a Chigger Craw or Rage Craw on a belly weighted twistlock hook. I like that presentation because the weight works like a keel, it falls flat, and I can control rate of fall by amount of weight.

Blow it out with an air nozzle on an air compressor if you have access to one, then lube.

But squirrels dont have hooks to rust silly!! LOL!

Hard bottoms are usually better than soft muddy bottoms because that's where the fish are! ??

I used to throw all my single hook moving baits (Spinnerbait, swim jigs, buzzbaits) on a MH Fast rod and didn't give it another thought. Then I started noticing a lot of rod companies offerings for "Spinnerbait" rods had a slower, more moderate/fast action. I tried them and liked them. When starting to fish chatterbaits, after seeing a lot of positive reviews for the Dobyns 736cb glass, I decided to grab one and try it when they were on sale. Started with mono and flouro, but didn't like the hooksets. Switched to braid and have been happy. For me I like how I can really feel the action of the chatterbait with braid, but the composite build of 736cb glass dulled enough of it to make it more comfortable to fish, yet the strong backbone of those rods allows for good hooksets. Don't have any other way to describe it other than I like how it fishes and haven't lost many fish on that setup.

I used to like 3/0 EWG weightless if fishing REALLY shallow or with a Lindy EZ Tube weight if a little deeper. Nobody is making the EZ Tube weights anymore though, so looking for a new option. May have to get some of these Owner setups and try. EZ Tube Weights were the way to go though. XPS bought out Lindy from what I can see, then stopped making them. Been thinking of making up a die to pour lead and make my own, but haven't gotten to it.

Agreed. It's all I use. Best when rigged perpendicular to bait, so if using an Oring, I prefer to use two, "X" them up, and hook through the crossover so hook is still perpendicular to bait.

That's sad! I like my Fenwick rods! Though I can say I've got a bunch of Fenwicks, including multiple HMX, and have never had one do that. That's a new one for me.

Since the original question was "Which Lews Reel", I'm not going to start suggestings other reel manufacturers. I dont know the specifics on all of those reels, but the differences I do see are the braking systems. Some have straight magnetic brakes, some (at least the BB1) have centrifugal, and some have both. Since the lure styles you mentioned typically use slower casting techniques like flipping or pitching and not flatout bomb casting, I would suggest something with a mag brake or combo. Of the ones mentioned, my recommendation would be the Tournament MP or Tournament Pro

Agreed,... For me,... I was going to suggest a Fuego LT on a Daiwa RG, Fenwick HMG, or for a bit more $ a Phenix Feather rod.

I used to LOVE the old Pflueger Presidents with the wooden knob. They came with a spare spool, held up well, and were so smooth they were as close to perpetual motion as you could get. I still have two of them. The newer ones I have gotten within the last few years are definitely not as smooth, no more spare spool, and don't seem to hold up at all. Tried jumping up to the XT, Supreme, and Supreme XT and they all seem to have their issues too. Read some reviews and you quickly see they all have issues. Some models are seeing the bails breaking, others have handles breaking. It's sad, but I've kind of given up on them and am sticking with my Daiwas. Even their cheapest models feel very smooth and seem to hold up pretty well! I've got some OLD Regal X and Regal Z reels that are still smoother than most reels you can find today. I've got newer Regal, Revros, and RG as well as a few Fuegos and all work well. Need to try a Tatula LT, but hard to justify the cost with how much I like the Fuego and lower models.

I've got one from year before last and it is a rope. My new Ultrex is a cable. It doesn't stretch like the rope on the Fortrex does

Couldn't agree more with this. I've had a few instances where I had a slight backlash or something else that distracted me long enough that when I got my attention back on my line, there was a fish on it. The answer is what others said,... Reel up slack if you can and set the hook. Worry about the line later!

I played around with mine and I think what is happening with me is my index finger rests between the reel and rod at the front, when I squeeze my grip to make the cast my index finger is on the brake knob and rolls it downward towards the rod, increasing the brake. I found that if I grip the front of the reel right below the levelwind with my index finger, it keeps it off the brake knob and I don't have the issue

Good idea, but I think I will try to get a coupke of those springs first in case I ruin one trying!! Don't want this reel being out of commission due to something stupid like that!! Thanks for the suggestion!

I don't like carrying more than a couple rigs with me when bank fishing ponds or lakes. If it were me, it would depebd what I was after. If I intended to try for some pan fish, I'd bring the UL and the M spinning. That way I could fish for panfish and throw the occasional light plastuc if the cover looks good. If not going for panfish, I'd bring the M spinning and a MH baitcaster.

SoCal is right. I pulled mine apart this morning and the brake knob detent is controlled by spring #11 that isn't easily manipulated. It doesn't help that part #13 is springloaded and assists in moving the brake knob in the direction of increasing the brakes. It makes it even easier to turn in that direction if inadvertently contacted. Oh well,... I'll have to learn to adjust or live with it because I love everthing else about the reel!!

Mine turns really easy on my Zillion. WAY easier than on my Alphas SV TW or any of the other Daiwa Tatula SV's, Tat 100's. Or CT Type R's that I have. Thats why I was going to look into how the detent for the brake dial works to see if I could tighten it up.

Oops,... Sorry. Forgot to answer that... Nope. I cast right handed with a LH reel so no hand switching. Hence the "Casting while in palming position" comment above. My index finger tends to drop down between the reel and the reel seat and bump up the brakes when I cast. Fortunately it just leads to increasing brakes and shorter casts instead of decreasing the brakes and having a surprise backlash. Don't get me wrong,... I still love the reel! I just have to watch out for it.

Thanks for the reply, but I wasn't talking about the cast control knob. I set that at just enough to eliminate sided to side movement and leave it be. I was talking about tension/tightness of the brake knob.,.. Meaning how difficult it was to turn when setting. Mine on my Zillion moves very easily if bumped. My Alphas SV has the same design. But is tighter so doesn't change if bumped.