Boomstick

I have two Tatula SVs, liked the first one so much I bought a second. One was $155 and the other was $135. Definitely going to be tough to beat in the price range.

Not a mechanic by any means but I have a decent idea how things work. First and most importantly it sounds like your coolant overflow tank likely boiled over and will need to be refilled -- if you didn't already refill it to the proper level. I had a similar issue happen once after buying a fairly new used car and driving it home because someone replaced the thermostat, drained the coolant out and didn't refill it and the dealer never checked the coolant level. I was fine when the car was moving, but sitting in traffic at a red light the car overheated but it never boiled over because it wasn't full enough. Because you saw coolant on the block, it does make me think you may be lucky and it may simply be the thermostat malfunctining. If it happens again, crank the heat and see if that lets you keep driving.

Catfishandcarp is a great youtube channel and will tell you everything you need to know. In short, run some 50lb or 65lb braid on a MH catfishing rod. The Daiwa Regal Bri 4000 is a great reliable and affordable baitrunner reel for catfish (Luke from Catfishandcarp has 10 and has yet to have any issues). For a rod, try the Rippin' Lips Super Cat will do nicely. http://a.co/fyU2s0c http://a.co/enPKf9f If you only learn one rig, learn the slip sinker rig which is the Carolina rig for catfish which consists of a flat lead, a bead, and a swivel. On the other side of the swivel, tie 12-18" of 30 or 40lb fluro and then snell knot a 4/0, 6/0 or 8/0 hook depending on the size of the Catfish you're targeting. A 3oz lead works very well most of the time for this rig unless you're in a river with very high current. For hooks, Team Catfish hooks are the best buy if you can find them but Owner and Gammys are good too. http://catsandcarp.com/catfishing/catfish-rigs/ You can catch them with hot dogs marinated in vinegar and garlic salt, spam, chicken livers, pickled herring, cut shad, french fries, pizza, corn, that annoying dog next door... catfish are like goats, they'll eat anything. Some people have even caught catfish on ivory soap! Team catfish and Berkley makes a nice spray that you can spray on your bait and add more scent as well, get that and spray it on spam and that's a good day's worth of fishing. There's a couple of store purchased baits you can use as well. On the catfishandcarp youtube channel, he likes the plum boilies from Dynamite baits but they're hard to get in the states, but Magic Bait makes a mulberry catfish and carp that should be similiar. Berkley also makes a few baits as well, try the Gulp! in Bloody Shad or Powerbait in Chicken liver baits.

This is definitely a good pairing, but imo you could upgrade the President to a Mitchell 308 Pro which is a noticeably smoother and lighter reel. I have both, and they've both held up well but I definitely prefer my Mitchell.

4 Plano 3650 boxes, one 3600 sized Plano Crankbait box, and one Plano 3600 spinnerbait box. The 3650 boxes allow me to maximize my storage space pretty nicely, for example one box has swim jigs and soft plastics I would use for trailers, another has hooks, weights, and more soft plastics, etc.

Spinnerbaits: #1) A 3/8oz with Colorado/Willow blades in a lighter color. The War Eagle Extreme Trokar in Sexy Shad is good if you can find it, but the KVD Finesses in Chartreuse Sexy Shad or Sexy Shad will do just fine. #2) A 1/2oz double with Willow blades in a lighter color for burning in the fall. The War Eagle Extreme Trokar in Sexy Shad is good if you can find it, but the KVD Finesses in Chartreuse Sexy Shad or Sexy Shad will do just fine. #3) A darker color spinnerbait with one or two Colorado blades if you fish in dirty water. Crankbaits #1) Norman Fat Boy, pick your favorite color with a white or yellow belly. #2) If you can find it, a River2Sea Ish Monroe Biggie Square Bill Crankbait Smalls Bumpin, try the Abalone Shad, Bluegill or Gizzard Shad #3) Same as above but in the larger Poppa Bumpin' size for bigger bass #4) KVD 1.5, pick your favorite color with a white or yellow belly. #5) Same as above but in a 2.5 size for big bass Soft plastics: Green Pumpkin senkos with 4/0 EWG hooks and 1/8 and 1/16 oz weights. I like Gamakatsu and Owner hooks. Yum or KVD finesse worms, 1/4 and 3/8 oz drop shot weights and size 1 or 1/0 Gamakatsu drop shot hoots. Swim Jigs: A Strike King Tour Grade Swim Jig in 3/8oz or 1/2oz, Chartreuse Sexy Shad or Sexy Shad. A 1/2oz Booyah Swim'n Jig in a moderately dark color like Brush Fire for cloudy days or dirty water (note: the black blue or black chartreuse colors are good for night fishing) NetBait Paca Chunk make great trailers as does a Kaitech 2.8 or 3.8oz swimbait. Topwater: First, buy a couple of hollowbody frogs that have the same colors as the frogs in the area. Common brands like Spro and the SK KVD aren't bad and are probably a better value, but the LiveTarget hollowbody frogs that are 2.25" long are my favorite. Buy a three pack of Rebel Pop-R Topwater Poppers. Top

I have 17lb mono one one of my SVs and it still holds more than enough line. The SV spool can cast lighter lures well too so it might make sense to put it on your medium rod, but if you put it on the medium heavy it will work just fine as well. I normally use spinning gear for shaky heads though.

The best all around bass casting rod is usually a medium heavy fast action rod. It can be used for nearly everything. Throw braid on it and fish a frog, with mono or fluoro it's passable for crankbaits, etc. I have a 6'10" Tatula MH/F rod which would probably suite you well. If you are patient and check periodically, the price will drop a low a $110 on Amazon (prices seem to drop at night time on a Wednesday or Thurday, I am still trying to figure out how exactly that works). Since I run braid on mine and the rod is rather stiff, I added a Tatula glass cranking rod as well. I'd also check out the Dobyns Fury or St. Croix Mojo bass a well, they make good rods.

I have an older President, it's a good real, solid, dependable and affordable, but I also have a Mitchell 300 Pro which is slightly more expensive, but it's smoother cranking and in the event of line twist, the line is much less likely to get wrapped around the reel and get stuck. That said, I would not hesitate to buy the President but it may be worth looking for a Mitchell Pro instead.

While I don't have as much experience with the Curado 70 as I do with the SV, I know it's a solid choice too. I own two SVs however and I would give them the highest recommendation possible. I have thrown lures as small as 3/16oz but 3/8oz and up is where you will get the best casting distance. My favorite thing about the Tatula SV is you can set the brake from 8-10 and set the tension knob to the point the reel just begins to click and you won't need to adjust your settings until you put heavier lures nearing 1oz. It casts quite effortlessly and is nearly impossible to bird's nest short of hitting a low hanging branchwith 14-17lb line, but with 10lb I do need to pay a little more attention to be sure to make good casts (like a normal baitcaster).

I have been using 3600 size boxes and the 3650 style boxes are great for a universal storage box. So I would think the 3750 would be just as versatile but with more storage. The new Planos have upgraded latches too, for around $3 at Walmart.

My two kids came with my girlfriend too. I've been Dad since they were 4 and 5 and the only dad they know. It makes me want to be a better person. Hell, I learned to fish for my youngest son who always asked to go fishing... turns out I really liked it too.

'92 Cadillac Brougham. It was cheap (compared to newer vehicles, and last three newish vehicles haven't lasted me as long), large enough to fit my fishing and camping gear and most importantly, I don't hit my legs on the dash, head on the ceiling and it doesn't have some front leaning headrest digging into the bottom of my neck.

I could make a strong argument for the spring since after being cooped up all winter, the weather's finally getting nicer and I'm thinking about fishing, planning camping trips and fun stuff to look forward to. Then there's summer. I usually don't care for the heat of the average summer, but tame summers like this one aren't bad. My bboys are out of school and we go camping at least two weeks of the summer every year. Sitting on a pier fishing during sunset is always a good time as well. Then there's fall. The bass start to get active all day long, the leaves turn pretty colors, but there is a bleak outlook of the upcoming winter, and in this case the expectation of an early winter that I half expect to set the record for total snowfall. As long as it's not winter. I don't really ice fish, although I am contemplating trying it this year.

Grats. You clearly did something right because she looks up to you. You don't need to be perfect, but she sees you as someone she can look up to.

I drive a '92 Cadillac Brougham. It's cheap compared to a newer car, repairs are insanely cheap (although there has been a few of them), it has enough space for all of my rods and camping equipments and most importantly which I cannot stress enough, it has enough space I do not hit my head on the ceiling or my legs on the dash. I actually got it after going through all the newer cars and SUVs (wasn't shopping pickups at the time) under $30k in a 50 mile radius because the Acura RL I was driving was too small for me and crouching down gave me a headache after a while, I only found two models I did not hit my knees on the dash or my head on the ceiling without slouching down, and then hitting my knees. After going through every car on one dealer's lot, I said well crap I might as well just get an 80s Buick or Cadillac Fleetwood. A few dealer's later, that seemed like a better idea. I will probably end up picking up a GMC Sierra if I ever get a boat. I didn't initially shop pickups because I wanted something that at least got me 20mpg.

My mom looked at one once plus I see common repairs on cars and prices paid at dealers across the country somewhat regularly through my job so while I've never owned a Subaru, I am very familiar with common issues. There are two major things to watch out with Subarus. First, their engines are very problematic. They eat through headgaskets like the Cadillac Northstar, only worse, and the replacement is just as expensive and difficult (more than your typical Honda for example). If you have the car for any length of time, you will be replacing the headgasket at least once it doesn't matter if it's brand new or used with a recently replaced head gasket. They can occasionally last over 100k but people report their first one blew between 30k and 70k if you look up reviews on the car. The other thing to pay attention to is the timing belt. At 100k, make sure it was replaced or it will cost you a pretty penny. A dealer will charge you around $1500, but I know people who've got them done for as low as $700 but if it goes, so does the engine so it's important to get it done. I believe they recommend 60k or 70k, but even if it got 100k, at least it's done. The other thing is to check for body rust. They have had excessive rust problems over the years, but if there is no major rust on the car now, I would not be too terribly concerned. Expect some other things like wheel bearings, ball bearings to go around 100k as well, but for the most part, the rest of the car is very solid. Largely, these cars are solid enough beyond the headgasket issues and the unfortunate fact they can't just use a timing chain that repairing one after a broken headgasket is often worth it.

I read this a while ago. I would take everything with a grain of salt here as the author is clearly not a FC fan, but he does raise several good points and is willing to back them. At the start of this article, he states it's twice as expensive but not twice as good, which is true. The real question is if the extra sink and feel is worth it to you or not.

I fish from shore like 90% of the time. The rest of the time, I rent a boat or canoe. As for tackle, I will usually carry a mid size tackle bag unless its a long walk to the fishing spot. I have two casting rods and two spinning rods, and what I bring depends on where I'm fishing and what I'm fishing on any given day.

I think it's already been said but the gear ratio is just a preference. For spinnerbaits I like my 6.3:1, and while it works with crankbaits, I like something ever so slightly slower like 5.8:1 although 6.31 is fine, but if I have to fish them on my 7.3:1, I can make do. But if I'm trying to burn baits back on a slower reel, my arm will get tired from cranking as fast as I can after a while too.

I would say the Tatula SV. You can get them for as low as $135 occasionally on ebay, but easily for $155 and they're worth every penny imo. The CT for around $100 should be good as well. I have two SV's, the thing I like about them is that you can set the brake at 8 +/-2 and then the tension knob to the point the reel begins to click and you don't have to adjust the reel when you change your bait (until you get to baits closer to 1oz where you might want to tighten up the tension knob a little bit). As far as backlashing however, if you can't cast a cheaper reel without backlashing, you're still going to backlash on another reel. I do believe Daiwa or Shimano has the best braking systems (but the SV reel gives Daiwa the edge), but don't go buying a SV expecting it to solve your backlash issues because it won't.

First and foremost, try different spots and tactics. And times. Here's a good youtube series you can watch if you have time. I also suggest reading about seasonal patterns of bass, what to throw and when but there are some days on some lakes if you don't get out at dusk or dawn, getting a bite can feel like waiting for a miracle to happen.

While the Tatula SV seems to give Daiwa the best bang for the buck here, I do have to say if you pick wrong between Daiwa and Shimano you probably aren't going to end up with a bad reel.

I'm predominantly left handed and I cast with my left and crank with my right. I might be able to cast poorly with my right arm if I had to, but for whatever reason I just can't crank with my left but it's natural with my right, so when I learned on a RH baitcaster, it just felt natural to me.

I am going to assume you do not currently have a MH/F rod already, so I would go that route as you can use it for other things. I use a MH/F rod for frogs and it's fine where I fish it, but places I fish don't have the thickest weeds out there by any means.