Boomstick

I haven't really snagged mine or even thrown them on 15# line. I've pretty much used 12# flurocarbon and fished them in more open water alongside drop offs primarily. I caught a few decent fish without issues at least, but I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't the greatest hook, I just like the head and presentation.

I have been using the X-Tube by XZone lures in both 2.75" and 3.75" this year on Owner Darter jig heads, 1/16 and 1/8oz respectively. I will note that the Strike King Tour Grade jig heads are pretty nice, especially with larger tubes where you can fully embed the jig head inside the tube as well.

I usually throw frogs throughout September. Around the time the weeds start dying off (early October) other topwaters like poppers, buzzbaits or even a whopper popper starts to become much more effective as the bass move away from the cover.

This bass couldn't even get the other one down!

Grats! A new PB is always exciting, no matter how big or small. And remember while not a giant, that 3lb keeps your interest and turns into a 4lb later on, then 5lb and so on. Hardly anyone catches a giant their first time out!

IMO beads are for C-rigs not T-Rigs.

I have a Patriarch and my kid has a Supreme XT. Both are nice reels, super light etc. I use the Patriarch with 12lb mono for topwater, including poppers and it throws lighter poppers well.

I had experienced this issue with the Ci4+ myself.

I've done that time to time, but normally it's three in front. A lot of times it depends on the reel and reel seat.

Definitely all true! Sometimes if I'm not catching anything I'll toss a ned rig and catch a panfish or trout if nothing else. Beats getting skunked!

Mornings are usually better than evenings, but I am definitely not a morning person so it;s evenings for me.

It's either turnover or fish have moved to a different part of the lake. Often fish will migrate into the shallow waters or creek channels if you have one in the fall, sometimes in areas you won't see them the rest of the year.

Well my rod tube likes in the back of my truck and if I'm going anywhere that might have fishing I'll throw some rods in, bring my tackle bag and reel cases etc My kid has an old ugly stick and black max that are also fair game if I want to travel light. not the best but usable for some fun fishing.

Starting early this year I see... well I'm in!

As previously mentioned, I would probably just use the casting setup for jigs. I generally do palm the reel to put a finger on the line when fishing a jig (or t-rig, for that matter). You can hold the line on spinning gear as well but it feels more much natural on the baitcaster. Something else to consider, if you are throwing jigs on a MH spinning rod, many of the MH spinning rods tend to run on the lighter side. Most of the best jig rods are medium heavy powers that run heavy or heavy powers. I'm not sure about the Perigee so I may be wrong here. But if it does run light you may be best throwing lighter finesse jigs so you don't risk not having enough power in the rod, and even if it runs heavier it may not hurt, you'll get more bites.

Well I ended up getting a Yakima rack and roll (mainly because I couldn't buy a utility trailer last year), but I don't have a lot of open bar between the kayaks.

Yeah I do have a trailer but most of my bar space is in use. I have a tonneau cover on my truck too so that gets in the way of most truck trails. Maybe I'll get a roof rack at some point.

The 7'1" MH/F just to be sure we have the same rod? I also have the newer generation and it's quite a bit stiffer.

Yeah, it's also good for pitching and skipping with as well. But the Shimano MGL spools imo are the best at casting lighter lures. I was amazed how well it cast.

If you got the pads, they don't consider that a recall model and won't send you the retrofit plastic guards unfortunately. The originals I guess didn't have any sort of pads there. The Wilderness is the one you want. Some of the other carts cause the hull to crack when used with the SS127.

I need to figure out how I'd mount one of these on my truck or trailer.

Generally fluorocarbon tends to fare better with pike, but I recall one day on my first cast I had a fish bite my jig. I went to set the hook and nothing was there, including my jig. A pike had bit cleanly through the line. If you are fishing and getting a lot of pike bites, then lead core leader is a must.

I do the same thing, and I can tell you why. I usually go with straight fluorocarbon whenever possible. There's two main reasons. One is for simplicity - I don't have to take time to wire up a leader. Second is sensitivity. If you are taking a jig and dropping it to the bottom and reeling up the slack and trying again, braid wins. But if you are structure fishing a jig and your line is not perfectly tight, braid will lose all sensitivity where fluorocarbon still remains somewhat sensitive. On spinning gear, I feel that braid is less prone to line twist issues or losing loops off the reel, which makes it worth it to me.

My oldest son has a Sierra 703C and a SLX MGL 70. That's an even better setup for square bills, but that reel really shines with bomb casting weightless soft plastics.

I don't think 12# should be inadequate. I use 12# for finesse jigs, I would even step it as low as 10# (or even 8# on spinning gear) but then I'd have to add another reel to my arsenal and I have 7 baitcasters with carefully selected line size that generally works well. When you get into a standard size hook (not one of those super thick "California" hooks), I would say 12# is the minimum if you are fishing open water in pressured lakes trying to get bit. 14# is generally happy. I usually use 16# for your standard 3/8oz arky head style jig, but again that's largely because I'll often target weedlines and laydowns.