Boomstick

For this year, I loaded my soft plastics into three open compartment 3700 boxes, one for anything I'd use as a jig trailer, one for anything I'd use as a finesse bait and one for senkos and power worms. Then I'm going to get another one which will go in the tray under the seat in my kayak which I will pick out what I plan on using for the day so I don't have to bring all three boxes.

I forgot to paste the link, my bad. https://www.ownerhooks.com/product/wide-gap-plus-2/

Yup. Add in the Baby Brush hogs as well.

I am trying these out this year as recommended by @A-Jay which I think should work pretty good.

I'm familiar with a few brands myself mainly from buying one kid Dobyns, the other St Croix and myself Daiwa but it's generally a safe bet to stick to one brand for this exact reason. I mean if your Med. heavy runs heavy and the medium runs heavy and you get a medium light, you have your bases covered.

It really depends on the location. If you have bank access in a spot where fish go to feed, you can do well with a lipless or a square bill from the bank. While I can generally only fish a shallow diver, I've had success in places with a fairly steep drop off.

Every manufacturer is a little different. As a general rule of thumb, I look at the line rating and weight rating more than I do the power rating. I would consider 10-17lb line and 1/4 to 3/4oz fairly standard for a MH rod and 10-20lb and 1/4 to 1oz is kind of a MH+ (or a Dobyns Heavy). I would prefer the former for soft plastics and things like 3/8oz spinnerbaits the latter for jigs, 1/2oz spinnerbaits or chatterbaits with trailers for what it's worth. Then there's the action of the rod. For the most part a line of rods will run on the fast or slow side, so that a fast rod might be what we consider mod. fast, and a mod. fast is more moderate. For a Dobyns, you will likely want the 704C. The 703C is rated for up to 3/4oz, but most manufacturers would probably list that as a 5/8oz max and it runs a little lighter than it's ratings. The 703C is real good with light jigs with a lighter hook and a 5' senko with a weight of no more than 1/8oz if there's not a lot of cover, but the 704C is essentially a solid MH that runs on the stiffer side and I would use that for a 3/8oz jig or up to 1/2oz. For St Croix, you will probably want a Medium Heavy. I'm not too familiar with the Legend line, but the Mojo Bass 7'1" MH/F is pretty stout for a MH and a very good rod for 1/2oz jigs as long as there is not a lot of cover.

To my understanding the Kaden is essentially an alternate blank that is on par with the Sierra series but they have more tip. The Sierra line seems to generally have more tip than the Fury line as well.

I played a video from PunchFishing on Youtube earlier where he compared a Victory spinning rod to a Tatula spinning rod and said they were very similar overall.

I use fluorocarbon whenever I can because: -I get at least two seasons out of it unless I do something stupid (like pull out a birds nest over a bush, I've done that) -Better sensitivity (plus sensitivity on slack line). -I never have any problems with knots breaking or casting issues. -Consistent stretch. -I fish mostly clear water and the invisibility has to help somewhat. Legit reasons not to use fluorocarbon, - The cost. - Some fluorocarbons are trash. No idea why people still use these ones in this day in age. There's several decent fluorocarbon variants that are acceptable and any I see listed above is among that list.

I have this rod and would also recommend it. I would also consider the St Croix Victory. I hear the build quality is a new high build quality and overall very good things about it so far.

This is like comparing Ferrari to Lamborghini or Rolls Royce to Bentley if you ask me. I just got my first Steez reel (a Steez SV). It's super light. Probably 2/3 the weight of the almost any current Shimano reel besides the Aldebaran MGL 50. I expect it to not win any distance casting competitions, but would get my pick as I would expect it to be better for control where the Antares should win for casting distance. The Steez SV pairs well with my Steez AGS Bottom Contact rod as well since that is not tip heavy, but the Antares might pair better with a less balanced rod (pretty much anything lighter) at the end of the day as well.

Whoa, I see what I started here. Although my comment about how some bass just won't eat a lure and color that works for other is true, I was really just trying to be funny more than anything.

No worries, that's what these forums are here for. So in your case, I would start with the black and blue. Most of my water is pretty clear, so natural colors are my go to.

For me, braid for frogs mono for the rest.

I have not actually tried these, but they look like they should work and at $2.80, I'd buy maybe green pumpkin and watermelon and give them a shot.

There is always that one person they don't work for (which is usually me). Maybe your bass fell on their heads too many times as a fry or something ?

The only thing that matters on the rod aside from being the proper power and action is the length of the rod as a shorter rod is easier to skip with. 6'6" - 6'9" is generally pretty good for skipping, but that doesn't mean that you can't do it with longer rods either. I would buy the rod only have the need in your arsenal for a rod in those requirements or skip a lot of docks and need a shorter rod. Where I would first spend money is skipping. I use the Daiwa Tatula SV reels for skipping (this year a Steez SV in the mix). Basically leave the tension spool as normal and turn the brakes up at least to 20 and if you do birds nest which happens to all of us, it's usually not too horrible. Also the electric tape idea isn't a bad idea as well.

If you're using light line, I would go with the PAD172HA to match - although I would strongly suggest using a main line of 15-20 and using a lighter line from the swivel to your bait like @Fishes in trees said, it will hold up being dragged over rocks much better.

The 734C will work for frogs but in open water or light cover situations only. The 735C will allow you to throw the frog in cover and will also work well for flipping and pitching as well. It doesn't actually have the most tip for the latter applications and it will work in many cases but in real heavy cover where you need that fast tip to pull them out quickly, you might prefer something with a faster tip as mentioned (I think the 765FLIP or 805FLIP have more tip). They do cast jigs nicely though.

So an experiment. Cut off 2 feet of braid and 2 feet of fluorocarbon or even mono, and hold one end in each hand and put each hand a few inches apart. You will see the braid go limp and make a near perfect U shape, where the fluorocarbon will coil a little and won't make a perfect U. That is why

From simple physics, the shorter rod should be more sensitive as there is simply less material to go from the tip to your hands. Do you actually notice? Especially if it's a 7' vs a 7'5"? Probably not.

You say that now, but watch the bass refuse to eat that color ?

I always use a trailer on a jig. Usually a netbait paca chunk, sometimes a Rage Tail craw, Sweet Beaver or Rage Bug. I only use a trailer on a spinnerbait when I'm getting short strikes.

Me too. I wonder why we don't see more of them - or maybe we do and don't realize it?