Kayak Koz

Worm grunting and minnow traps.

I have a 7' 6" heavy rod that I use when fishing in heavy weeds and lily pads as well as the occasional swim bait. It's like casting with a tree. It's definitely not something that I want to fish all day long. I'll use my 7' MH with frogs, Sprinker Frogs, etc. but it can be harder to drive the hooks when they hit. Sure, it works, but the hookup rate is lower.

I got the call from my Dad when I was 19 and home from college and summer hockey for a few weeks. He said, "Call Reverend Carpenter and have him meet us at the hospital. Your brother has been in an accident." He was 16 years old at the time and spent 6 months in a coma. That was 36 years ago and I remember it like it was yesterday. He survived, but the brain damage altered his life path. I've seen far too many people whose lives were ruined by alcohol. I've fired far too many that let alcohol dominate their lives. If anyone out there even thinks for one split second that they might need to cut down on their drinking, they definitely need to cut down on their drinking. Don't let someone you care about get the call.

I've been blessed to do most of my fishing in lagoons where catching anything under 3 pounds is a disappointment. That being said, there were some lagoons where you could catch one pounders on what seemed like every cast. I would take my son to those when he was younger and catching numbers kept him excited about fishing. I never really enjoyed fishing those lagoons. If I hit the banks for 3 or 4 hours I'm happy to come out of there with 3-6 LMB between 4 and 6 pounds. That's when I feel like I accomplished something.

I cut my own a few months ago. I had kind of an "oops" moment with the clippers along my part line. Not a good look with thinning, middle ages hair. But I sure felt a lot better. I did get it fixed last month when I went to the barber. Very happy that at my age it still grew back!

I do not have the Deeper Pro Plus but somewhere I have an iBobber. As a bank fisherman I found the iBobber to be just about useless as a fish finder for a number of reasons. The first is that when I bank fish I cover a lot of ground and it gets to be a pain to carry two rods - one for fishing and one for the iBobber. Some anglers won't mind that. The second issue was that once you cast it out there, you start looking at your phone for the results. Meanwhile, the wind keeps moving the iBobber all over the place so if you happen to see a fish on your screen you need to look up and find a reference point to cast because in 5 seconds the iBobber will be another 20 feet away.. You end up casting and reeling the iBobber as much as your bait. The third issue is that it's fairly useless in the lagoons I fish because of its narrow cone. The lagoons I fish are only 8-10 feet deep so unless a fish swims right underneath it the sonar won't see it. Note: Deeper Pro has both a wide (55 degree) and narrow (15 degree) cone. Just be cognizant of how much that scan area is where you are fishing. The fourth issue is that is uses Bluetooth and has less than a 100 foot range. But Deeper Pro uses Wifi (create a hot spot with your phone) and it says it's good up to 300 feet. The last issue is unique to some of us in the south - it's an alligator magnet. How does this relate to Deeper Pro? Between the wind blowing it around and shallower depths near the shore I don't see it being very useful as a fish finder. I do see one great application for the Deeper Pro Plus and that is you can create bathymetric maps from the bank. So if this works as I think it does you can cast it out, reel it in and scan the bottom of the basin. Move down the bank a few feet and do it again. Repeat again and again until you've covered as much of the basin as you can. It looks like it will stitch all of these scans together and you can see a map showing the different depths. This can help you find drop offs, channels, etc. Unfortunately it does not look like it will map any structure. It would be fantastic if it would also map weeds, logs, rocks, etc. As mentioned above, if you mount it in a canoe or kayak it might be OK but starting at around that price you can purchase mountable units. I think the Deeper sounds like a great idea, but I don't see it as being all that practical as a fish finder.

And that's why my tag line says. "King of the retention ponds". LOL! It's a snarky joke. I will say that bank fishing from a big lake is more difficult especially because there are usually limited access points on foot. So I may find a bank fishing area on a bigger lake that looks like it should be productive but it isn't because there are higher percentage areas that I can't access on foot. I will also say that when I kayak these lakes I sometimes get overwhelmed by the number of areas that look like good spots. I think that's where mapping and electronics would come in handy if available. It would be easier to narrow down the higher percentage spots. It wouldn't be foolproof, but it would help.

Not necessarily. They could be anywhere at any given time based upon a number of factors. However, based upon things like I described the odds are higher you will find them in those areas first. I fish some lagoons that have features like spider blocks, aerator fountains, and channels that are more towards the middle of the lagoon and in those lagoons I am more likely to find the bass out there. In other lagoons I might find the bass more consistently along the shore along weed lines. Again, because the depth of retention ponds is fairly consistent don't think of the middle of the pond as deeper water. It may be the same depth 15 feet from the bank as it is 100 feet from the bank. Or there might be a channel 20-30 feet out and then the water is shallower again beyond that. Find the channels, depressions, and drop offs to find the actual deeper water. The bass might be anywhere in those lagoons, but a higher percentage of the time they will be in specific locations in each body of water. I always fish the high percentage locations first and if they don't produce I will try other locations in that lagoon. I catch bass everywhere in those bodies of water, but have caught a lot more in those high percentage locations. You need to find where those high percentage locations are in your ponds. My goal in responding was to give you places to start looking based upon my own experiences fishing retention ponds. Fish them long enough and you'll notice a consistency in each of the retention ponds you fish. If I fish one and my high percentage locations don't pay off I'll try a couple of secondary locations and if the bass are still not biting I quickly move on to the next lagoon. The area where I primarily fish has over 100 accessible lagoons and there are literally thousands more lagoons in the area. With all of those options I won't sit around for 3 or 4 hours not getting bit. One more thing - in the retention ponds I fish the best fishing is usually between 11 am and 2 pm, then it slows down for about 2 hours and picks up a little bit after that. Your results may vary.

You're welcome. I've fished retention ponds almost exclusively over the past 5 or 6 years and these are my observations. Your results may vary. The stormwater inlet and outlet pipes in retention ponds are similar to creek channels in the big lakes. Deeper water has a different meaning in retention ponds (it's not like it goes from 3 feet to 40 feet deep) but it is still deeper water. Find those spots. If you have the money for the Deeper sonar device you could take the time and map out the bottom of each pond. I have neither the money nor the patience - I'd rather be fishing. The other thing is that I would not get locked into one or two baits. Where I fish my "go to" baits are chaiterbaits, spinnerbaits, and buzzbaits. But I still utilize soft plastics, crankbaits, jigs, jerkbaits, and just about everything else you can think of. If you've done your homework and still not getting bit change up your presentation and your baits. I'm addicted to buzzbaits and if there's any chop on the water I throw a 1/2 ounce buzzbait along the shore and then work it out to deeper water. One thing I love about retention ponds is that with many you can cast just about the entire body of water. I usually fish middle, bottom, then top and if nothing bites I don't sit there and fish all day. I go down the road and hit the next retention pond. Also, I suggest getting some polarized glasses. It makes it easier to see if there's anything lurking near the inlet and outlet pipes. Good luck and keep us posted.

OK - so not really a lake but man made retention ponds. Is that correct? If that's the case they are not usually very deep and for the most part uniform in depth. These ponds will be connected via outlet pipes to balance water runoff during heavy rains. Looking at Google maps it looks like vegetation and shade from trees is sparse or non-existent. But those outlet pipes that connect the ponds are going to provide cover for the bass. Depending upon the size of those pipes the bass could be in them, around them, or both. Some bass will use them to navigate from pond to pond. My dad has a small 1/3 acre lagoon behind his house that connects to a large lagoon across the street. Sometimes his lagoon is empty except for baitfish, but on some days I pull 5 and 6 pounders out of that tiny lagoon. I have the most success within a few days after heavy rains because the outflow from the large lagoon pushes overflow water into the smaller connected lagoons. I assume bass either follow that current or may even get pushed if it's a heavy current. So next time you get heavy rains take a look at which way the water is flowing. In the larger ponds significant outflow will cause small channels to form as the water flows out of that pond. While not a lot deeper than the rest of the pond, bass will utilize that extra depth. Many will also use these channels as highways to get to shallower water feeding grounds. In the smaller inflow lagoons a few things can happen. A lot of times sediment flows through those outlet pipes as well and it can build up in the outflow area, but beyond that the water flow usually creates another small channel where bass may prefer to gang out because it's a little deeper than the rest of the pond. Smaller baitfish can also get caught up in outflow currents creating an ambush spot for bass in the outflow lagoon. Looking at the Google Map in the bigger ponds there is a lot of open area and if it's anything like similar lagoons I fish along the SC coast the wind generally (not always) blows in one direction and it can get pretty windy in those open areas. That usually stacks up baitfish along the wind blown bank, though that happens mostly in the spring. As the baitfish get bigger they tend to move away from the bank. Look for bait balls out in open water. If you haven't seen them before they look like the water is boiling in one small spot in the water. Anyway, just because it's the middle of the pond does not mean it's the deepest point. Study the waterflow and you'll find the deeper channels where bass may hold or use as highways. And hit those smaller ponds a day or two after a front brings heavy rain.

So many variables here, but to answer one question bass don't shut down in warmer weather. In fact, their metabolism is higher and they will feed and be more active than cold months. However, targeting them is different. In the hot, sunny weather bass will look for cover under weeds, docks, laydowns, rocks, etc. Target those areas and more than likely a bass just sitting there will pounce. Even more open areas along the shore with heavy shade from nearby trees can pay off. In the absence of cover, bass will retreat to deeper water. Most will still come to the shallows when it's time to feed. What you're going to want to look for then is the paths they use to frequently travel. This could be things like drop off, channels, etc. From what you said I am assuming you are bank fishing. I bank fish as well and the first things I do are look for structure and look for the baitfish. Are the baitfish along the shoreline, hanging out in vegetation, or do I see bait balls out in the open water? As far as weather is concerned, frontal conditions will have more of an impact than steady days of warm weather. You may also have been fishing in between the times they were sitting rather idle in deeper water rather than cruising into shallower water for a meal. Anyway, I'm sure others will also chime in with more info.

I did the math on it.

How many times has my bait crossed the path of a 10lb+ bass and that bass ignored the bait? Of course, the answer to this question might break my heart.

1. Spinnerbait (white, chartreuse/white, sexy shad) 2. Buzzbait (sexy shad) 3. Chatterbait (black/blue with blue vibe speed craw trailer)

Unintentionally? No. On purpose? Yes. Keep in mind I fish from the bank, not a boat. I've had topwaters like Whopper Ploppers break off and targeted them with other lures to snag and retrieve them. A few months ago I had a line break and lost my favorite buzzbait. I tied on another one and used it to drag the area where the first broke off, snagged the line, and was able to hand line it in.

Sorry bud, no sympathy from me. Your 30's should be some of the best years of your life. Still young enough to play sports and not feel like every muscle in your body is burning the next day. If you played your cards right you've got a decent income and career. In your 30's the world is your oyster. You're young enough to do anything but hopefully a bit wiser and more experienced to not do stupid things. I will pass on one piece of advice - if you don't have kids don't wait too long to start a family. I was 42 when my son was born and now that he's a teen he's getting bigger, faster, and stronger while my body is slowing down. I can't keep up with him anymore when we go biking. We're a baseball family and I can't catch for him anymore because I can't handle his fastball and breaking ball anymore. If I had understood how much fun kids were I would have had a family much sooner. One more thing: put something - anything - away in a 401k every paycheck.

I had the same thing happen to me. Picking out a backlash and a catfish picked my spinnerbait off the bottom.

I bank fish as well and there's no way I could do that. I bank fish like a boater - I'm constantly on the move like a boater working the trolling motor. If I'm in the Lowcountry hopping lagoons I can cover miles of ground. Even here in the Upstate I generally fish one place where I can walk the perimeter of the entire lake. I tried using one baitcaster and one spinning rod but it turned out to be a pain. I would wedge one rod between my back and my backpack but it was not only uncomfortable I had to worry about overhanging tree branches. Now I just take a 7 ft MH baitcaster and it works great. I catch more than enough fish so I don't thing I'm losing anything by using an all purpose rod.

Gators. Multiple encounters.

Walnut is great, but I'd save it for more of a showpiece project instead of a fishing rod holder.

I have 5 or 6 Home Depots and about the same number of Lowe's in my area. Sometimes I have to hit a few of them to find the quality I'm looking for. Someday if I hit the lottery I'll buy a planer and a joiner and start building things using more expensive hardwoods.

I like poplar but if you want to stain it you really need to be complete in your sanding and make sure you pre-treat the wood. I did not pre-treat the fishing rack I made and that left me with a bit more sanding and touch up after I stained it. The big box stores have Select Pine which is usually straight and mostly knot free. But you pay a premium for it. I use cheap wood because it's cheap to replace if I mess up. I just made this display platter the other day out of pine. Next up is a shadow box for some of my son's old baseball bats, jersey, and photos. I'm still sketching some plans and working on different ideas.

You may also want to look into getting another rod with greater sensitivity. I never gave that much thought before and had success fishing an Ugly Stick for years. But when I picked up a new Lew's rod I was amazed at how much more feedback I felt. You don't need to spend $400 on a rod that transmits more sensitivity. Ask around the forum and I'm sure you'll get a ton of feedback in whatever your price range is.

I just made my own the other week. I used poplar so the cost of the wood was about $30. Pine would be about half that. No special joinery required - just wood glue and a few wood screws.

I think each instance is unique. Some of it may also depend upon whether cover is available or not. But I will tell you that if I get a short strike if I throw back in that general area there's a good chance I get another strike. If I'm reeling one in and lose the hookset I rarely get another strike on a followup to that same area.