papajoe222

I have two rods that are acid (spiral) wrapped. The only guide that is on the top side of the rod is the first one. The next two spiral around the blank until the remaining guides are underneath like a spinning rod. There is little difference in casting performance and IMO, the overall sensitivity is enhanced. I highly doubt a couple of guides slightly off center would make a difference.

Mepp's in-line spinners. The Aglia and Squirrel Tail versions will catch just about anything that's worth catching.

We have a WINNER!!!

WOW! I didn't know they could swallow something that big.

Ardent Reel Kleen. I'll go through a 16oz bottle in a season.

So far, mine has been uneventful. A combination of less time on the water and tough conditions when I was able to get out have been the reasons. The light at the end of the tunnel, for me, is the fact that summer isn't over and my outboard should be up and running in a couple of days.

I do the camo deal on my Hi-Viz braid. The last 18in. or so gets it. The super clear visibility of my favorite lake had me doing the fluoro leader for a couple of years. I haven't noticed any difference since I changed. Straight Hi-Viz was never an option.

Seeing as bass rarely do what I feel they should be doing, I try not to. Needless to say, I fail at not trying.

same here

I learned my lesson using snaps a few seasons ago. I found out the hard way that you need to retie often no matter your connection, be it a split ring, snap, or direct tie. I still use snaps for everything blade baits, cranks, jerkbaits, topwaters, most treble hook lures. I just make sure I retie before every outing and whenever I question the knot's integrity.

I've been using Lucas products. Their reel grease is sold under the Lews label and the oil under their own. Cal's is all I use on my drags.

This is an easy one. Only counting bassin' combos, 15. I also own another 16 rods that get limited use, so I just swap out reels when I do use them. Please don't ask about crankbaits and if you get around to soft plastics, I'd have to answer in pounds, not packages.

Sounds to me like old line or line that wasn't stored properly. I purchased a spool of this line that was bad and blame myself because of where I purchased it from. Wasn't a high volume sales shop and it was likely sitting on the shelf for too long.

For me, it's all about the fight. I've gotten more enjoyment from a 15in. bass tugging and jumping, with that don't give up attitude, than I have from some 22in.+ bass that make a run for deep water and once I turn them, the fight is basically over. I love the big girls, but some just lay there and you do all the work. It's the main reason I love smallmouth, no matter the size, it's a fight to the finish.

I've been C-rigging small cranks and Rapalas for decades. It took a while to get the cast down so those treble hooks didn't get tangled up with the line. Bass rarely see small minnow imitations in deeper water and I believe that makes it more successful than a deep diving crank and a lot easier on the old forearms and wrists.

A Fat Free Shad is one of my favorite cranks and I've only changed out the hooks when they became dull. I'm a big fan of TrippleGrip trebles for replacements. Many anglers struggle with hook-sets and keeping fish hooked when first getting into crankbait fishing. Adjusting your hook-set to more of a sweep set to the side and up and using a rod with a Moderate action will help reduce the number of fish that come unbuttoned. As mentioned, though, you will loose fish. I've had bass choke a crank and somehow come unbuttoned.

Daiwa, Shimano, Lew's, Abu, you choose, but the gear ratio (IPT) should be what you look at. If you do a lot of deep cranking, something in the 5-6:1. If you'll be using it to burn 'em, go with a 7.1:1, otherwise a good old 6.3:1 will serve you well.

Catfish on a ChugBug Muskie on a lipless crank Dogfish on a RocketShad Crappie on a FatFree Shad Northern pike on a french fry worm Walleye on a buzzbait

The good news is: a) You had the joy and memory of fighting a giant. b) That fish is still there to be caught again just as if you'd landed it and released it. c) See (b), She'll be there to catch again, so fill your dreams with the battle and your fishing time trying to stick her again.

With rain (and wind), there is a point where it's too much work for me even though I own 100mph gear. At what point I make that decision is dependent on how well the fish a biting.

I fish a small (60acre), deep lake just over the boarder that gets very little fishing pressure. There are only three homes on this lake and it's crystal clear. I caught a big gall, 24in. that I figured to be around 7lb. Just a guess on the weight as I didn't carry a scale on that trip. When talking to one of the homeowners, he said he regularly pulls 8lb. LM out of the shallows off his dock. Hmmm, sounds like wishful thinking to me, but who knows. I make sure I hit that dock two or three times every time I'm there.

I'm the oddball here as I don't like EWG's for Flukes. I switched to offset round bend worm hooks after loosing too many fish. Haven't tried screwlocks, but I have some 4/0 and will give them a try.

I want to emphasize an important piece of info; Be familiar with the body of water you'll be fishing after dark. It's easy to get disoriented at night, even on a lake you frequent. I installed a compass on my boat 20yrs ago and got ribbed by my then fishing buddy as my home lake is only 120 acres. Sure enough, one night we got disoriented after fighting and landing his PB. That compass paid for itself, of course my phone has one now, but that one on the console is still there.

This is something I do a lot in the summertime, but unlike many, I'll use it under tough conditions, when I only expect a bite or two an hour. I go with a lighter jig with a big trailer like a RageTail Craw for a slower fall. I know this sounds counter productive for this technique, but think about this. The reason for the stroke, or double stroke that I use, is for that reaction strike and the jig's weight doesn't come into play, but the lighter, bulkier combination has a slow, enticing fall. So, I see it as a one two punch and many times I'll get hit just as the jig settles back to the bottom and not just after I pop the jig. I'll switch to a heavier jig and a less bulky trailer if that's when I'm getting hit, or under better conditions. So, what's your jig/trailer choice for this technique and do you ever use it under tough, post cold front conditions?

My vote is for the EagleClaw hook. TruTurn hooks were made of thinner diameter wire.