Big Rick

When I get a short strike I go right back in there with a paddle tail swim bait on an underspin. I prefer the Owner Flashy Swimmer. I use the Colorado gold blade when fishing off-color water. I love spinnerbait fishing. But I never throw a spinnerbait without having a paddle tail rigged for short strikes. Works like a charm.

Damiki Vault Blade Bait. Two ways to smoke them: 1.) Long, bomb casts and burn it back just below the surface. Do this with your crank bait rod as you need the parabolic bend to keep them from throwing the bait back at you on the jump. 2.) This is my most effective way to catch bass when the bass have the baitfish pinned against the bank in a shallow float or cove and they won't hit a topwater offering. Cast it out and let it sink to the bottom. Hop it off the bottom with a upsweep of your rod from 9 to 12 o'clock. Now this next part is by far the most important.... Let it sink back to the bottom on a semi-TIGHT line. This does two things. It prevents the hooks from fouling in your line and it lets you feel the strike, because you will most definitely get the strike on the FALL. These baits are surprisingly difficult to hang up. And in most cases when you do just passing over the hang up allows it to pop free, as most of the time it's the heavy head hung up and not the hooks. YMMV

Pasted from a reply I made earlier in the month another thread. This is the age old problem of having the right technique but missing a piece of the puzzle. And it's very frustrating at times. As Tom suggested, often a change of cadence, color, size, or shape makes the difference. Pay close attention to what the fish are actually telling you. Is the frog being lifted into the air? Is it taken under? Is the blowup right behind the bait? There are many factors to consider. However, to simplify it I would first change my cadence. If that doesn't result in a hookup then change colors. And go directly opposite. If your frog has a white/natural bottom then go orange or chartreuse. Often times that is enough. Most of the time I am fishing a frog I can't replicate the casts with a trebled bait. In this instance, go with a solid body like a Zoom Horny Toad. It rides in the water differently and will sink on the stop. That can change everything. I'm not a big fan of trailer hooks on frogs. It often defeats the very purpose of the frog. And that is to get in the slop where exposed hook baits can't. One other thing to try is to insert rattles in your hollow body frog. This does two things. It makes the frog have a different sound and it also causes it to ride a little deeper in the water, which changes how it reacts to your rod twitches. This is very effective. One last thing, downsize your frog. Too often the fish are just blasting at a larger frog and will inhale a smaller one. The Jackall Kaera Frog is a great option here. Pic attached is my favorite color. f And for the record, I don't hesitate on the strike. Bass hits my frog, I swing immediately. HARD! I get my cues from Matt at Tactical. He's an amazing frog fisher with lot's of video evidence to prove his point. Hope this helps..

A nice stump will work in a pinch. Rear back on it and you'll know if the backbone was damaged.

This is the age old problem of having the right technique but missing a piece of the puzzle. And it's very frustrating at times. As Tom suggested, often a change of cadence, color, size, or shape makes the difference. Pay close attention to what the fish are actually telling you. Is the frog being lifted into the air? Is it taken under? Is the blowup right behind the bait? There are many factors to consider. However, to simplify it I would first change my cadence. If that doesn't result in a hookup then change colors. And go directly opposite. If your frog has a white/natural bottom then go orange or chartreuse. Often times that is enough. Most of the time I am fishing a frog I can't replicate the casts with a trebled bait. In this instance, go with a solid body like a Zoom Horny Toad. It rides in the water differently and will sink on the stop. That can change everything. I'm not a big fan of trailer hooks on frogs. It often defeats the very purpose of the frog. And that is to get in the slop where exposed hook baits can't. One other thing to try is to insert rattles in your hollow body frog. This does two things. It makes the frog have a different sound and it also causes it to ride a little deeper in the water, which changes how it reacts to your rod twitches. This is very effective. One last thing, downsize your frog. Too often the fish are just blasting at a larger frog and will inhale a smaller one. The Jackall Kaera Frog is a great option here. Pic attached is my favorite color. Hope this helps..

Only if you have the right rod with enough flex and your reel drag set properly to prevent a big bass from bending treble hooks out. Otherwise, it's no myth, it's a reality.

Unless I am frog fishing or putting a bait in the worst cover and punching through, I fish the lightest strength line I can. Too often we overlook the most important job of our lure. And that is to impart an ACTION that elicits a strike. Using a line that is too heavy or stiff greatly reduces that action and often costs us bites. It seldom has anything to do with the fish seeing the line. It often is the fact while we have spent gobs of money buying the best gear with the latest and greatest lure we lose any advantage gained by tying the lure to some winch cable that negates the whole purpose of the lure; and that is allowing the lure to shimmy and shake making that bass engulf it. So, focus more on diameter and flexibility of your line and less on the age old argument of whether a bass is deterred by seeing it.

I love the War Eagle baits. There are so many options and styles to suit every situation. In the fall I use the Screaming Eagle. It's a 1/2 oz. bait on a 1/4 oz. ounce frame. This allows me to adjust to the changing conditions as the bait moves about, as it is so likely to do in the fall. I can cast it a mile, burn it near the surface, slow roll on a drop off, and it's tough as nails. War Eagle offers it in several models, including a painted blade option that works great in low light, cloudy or muddy situations.

The Tatula Elitę P&F is an absolute beast. I use it for frogging, punching, and heavy jigging. It pitches/flips like a dream, can skip a frog easily, and the handle is perfect. Paired with the Mojo is should make you very happy as a jig/chatterbait/texas rig.

Hey Mobasser, shad and chrome are colors, not sizes....? kidding..

This^^^^ The earlier in the morning the better as clear water fish will roam a bit before the light gets too bright. An orange bottom on a popper will get it done. Don't let it set still too long.

A visit to my chiropractor, who also fishes, sets me right regardless of the techniques that wore me down the day before. I have learned that maintenance on my physique is much more rewarding than ignoring what my body is telling me. That said, I abhor deep diving crank baits. I know they catch fish but the incessant pressure of the bill while reeling is very tiring. And regardless of your physical condition doing any laborious exercises for hours on end is tiring. Still, I love fishing too much and push my limits to the point I have to go see doc to get the old bod realigned. Worth it....well worth it.

Haven't seen this one mentioned and it is the most consistent for me as of the past couple of years: Zoom Ultra Vibe Speed Craw in Junebug. Zoom makes a special run of Candybug every so often and it is even better.

Congrats on the longest post title!

Nothing that about 7 minutes in 350 degree peanut oil won't solve. It also seem these parasites are temp sensitive. I don't see them in cooler times of the year.

The longevity of any machine is dependent on regular fluid changes and lubrication. Change out your fluids and filters and you're golden, in most cases. Following the OM's suggestions on maintenance is a lost art. People these days seldom even crack open an OM, much less follow the maintenance guidelines.

That's when I grab a Horny Toad and get busy.

I love that Nolan's Sharp Cheddar ad!

You'll get differing opinions right down the party lines. Shimano and Daiwa fans are often very opinionated and brutal. That said, I own both brands and enjoy them both. I do not own a DC reel as I have no use for it. A good set of brakes and bearings is sufficient for me without some circuit board monitoring and interfering with my cast. I'm sure there are others who have a differing opinion and I respect that. I just don't see the need. I do enjoy the SV line of reels due to the fact they allow me to cast much lighter baits into the wind and with better accuracy. The SV spools are not designed for distance, IMO. They really shine with T-rigs, spinner baits, buzz baits and the like that often cause issues when casting into the wind. They also are great for skipping jigs and paddle tail swim baits. YMMV.

Thanks. 4 boys in a row, then 3 girls in a row with a baby boy surprise on the end. I'm a richly blessed man. And I just met my first grandson yesterday evening. And so it moves forward another generation. Time to go hook to the boat. Another mouth to feed!

I've raised 5 boys and 3 girls on bass filets. And like @Catt, when Mama says she wants fish it's time to hook up to the boat! I will say that sometimes she mojo's me by saying that, but I always try to keep extra in the freezer just in case my trip doesn't turn out as planned.

Jerk baits are a Pandora's box. The possibilities are truly endless. As bad or worse than finding that perfect crank bait. Jerk baits suspend, float, rise slowly nose up, sink slowly nose down, and all sorts of other actions depending on retrieve and rod action. The actions vary wildly as well. Some are more finesse (110) some are more aggressive (Jackall Rerange). So, no one jerk bait will always catch fish. You'll just have to dive in, read a ton of info, watch a ton of videos, buy a few different ones, and go fishing.

And therein lies the difference between a Pro-V and a lot of other aluminum bass boats. My boat has NO storage behind the bench seat. I have a large live well, gas tank and battery compartment. Not the best setup, but the price was at the point I wanted to pay for the other features that I deemed more important. Again, rods on deck are a MINOR hassle that I give no thought to. I fish very shallow lakes and am afraid a Pro-V would draft too deep. However, I am very interested in a Renegade for my next boat. Seems to be a well thought out rig. OP, sorry to hijack your thread. And to that note, I've fished glass boats and they have a lot of benefits and detriments. I wish you the best on your choice.

When your rod storage is in the center then your tackle storage is not. Thus, when your rods are out and ON the deck they're also on top of your tackle storage lids.. A minor hassle for me since a center rod box allows for longer rods, at least on my boat. YMMV