PhishLI

Yeah, not with the heavier line(s) and leader(s) you'd be using with it. Would bug me too. I'll be using straight mainline, so IDGAF.?

For sure, but run, don't walk if the content creator calls any particular part a "thingy".?

That's cool, but they happen to be anyway. I measured the Elite's tip top ring at 1.61" or 4mm. RingLock Micro Tops (mudhole.com)

Yes, but once those big post spawn females begin munching bedding gills glued to their spots...Whoa, buddy! Just be there, especially at night.

My 6'9" H does. The top 4. Can't say about the other models. Left- 13 OB2 6'7"MHF tip top, Ring size 6. Right- Tatula Elite 6'9"H

I agree, of course, but it shouldn't need to be driven out, and if I'm reading what he wrote correctly, he'll need to drive it back in. They're often a tight slip-fit, but no tighter than that.

They're showing a clip retainer for the bearing in question. Is there a groove to accept it in the counterbore/bearing pocket? If that's the case, there shouldn't be an interference fit like you have now. This suggests that the plastic frame has outgassed over time and shrunk which is why you needed to press it out.

Take a look at this rod on sale at Midway. Only 2 left. Click the 'Rebate Available" icon highlighted in green. Daiwa TAEL731HFB Takahiro Omori PITCHIN' H F 7'3" 1 14-30 3/16-1 1/2 Fuji®Alconite

Hmm. It's like they made it as a one-and-done. Good thing it wasn't glued in. So, the bearing acts as the retainer for the copper lash pad? Is a gap left between the face of the bearing and the pad so that the inner race isn't rubbing on the pad? I imagine the bearing must be pressed in to a specified depth as to avoid that being an issue. And yes, with a bearing that small I'd avoid pressing it in by the inner race. A no-no for sure. The tool you'd need in order to press the bearing back in is simple enough to make on a lathe. Turn the shank of the tool to a diameter where it'll fit in the chuck of your drill press, and you can use it as an arbor press. Shouldn't be an issue since the frame is plastic. What's up with the missing magnet?

Cool. Balances well?

Which bearing is pressed in and into where? Have a schematic? I couldn't find the exact one. Only various other early Procasters.

Your email is on file, so create a login. Your order(s) will be in the drop-down menu. Print your invoice which will serve as your receipt.

But of course. ?

Don't forget you have a $60 rebate(s) daiwa-huk-tatula-shirt-offer-form.pdf (mwstatic.com)

I'd pay cash money for that! It's 29 here.

Flying one's flag on a fishing hobby forum is unnecessary. I come here for fishing convo. Not that chit. Wanna signal to your tribe? Do it via pm. P'S. I was just going to pm you about 3 Custom Pro blems available at Midway. Less than half price. I remember you were bummed after you missed the 50% off flash sale a few months ago. I'd email them to find out what the nature of those issues are first before you pull the trigger.

Not a catalytic converter in sight. Oh yeah

Who gives a flying...

You get a $60 value rebate. Print the invoice on their site. daiwa-huk-tatula-shirt-offer-form.pdf (mwstatic.com)

I think you'll be good. Going by feel, it'll load just fine with a 3/8oz + trailer.

If you haven't yet thrown big baits, which can tumble and helicopter which then catches wind, you're missing a key point. Mono and fluoro tend to simply fluff then recover if your brake settings are in the ballpark and you're aware. Braid, on the other hand, needs only to throw up one errant loop, usually during the ascent, which will instantly lock your spool which will shock the terminal knot. This is why I mentioned earlier that a long leader is the better choice here if you feel you must use one. You need the extra length for more stretch. Your braid to leader spinning setup makes a lot of sense, but that logic doesn't really translate to a big bait casting setup. Line twist isn't a factor with casting reels. It's a different thing, and line invisibility goes out the window using a heavier fluoro leader than you'd ever use on spinning gear.

Yes. It's a heavy.

134 grams=4.7 ounces, Balances right at the front of the reel nut with a Fuego CT. I'll be using a Tat 150 which is heavier by a skosh, so it'll be perfect. Top 4 guides are micros. I fish straight mainline, so fine with me. Guides are nice and straight. No bow in the blank. I prefer a downward facing loop hook keeper, so bully for me. It's a true fast, not x-tra F, so that's good too. Liking it. We're dropping into the 20s later and tomorrow, so a stress test will have to wait a minute.

Nope. People have different perspectives on everything. This happens in most hobbies. Ultimately, I listen to myself. If I hadn't, I wouldn't be happily using much of what I own. Note: I'm excluding all of the thoughtful and wonderful regulars who post here on BR. I think a lot of bad reviews are due to the fact that a lot of dumb people who don't have the aptitude to participate in more technical hobbies choose to fish.

Stuff from BPS. "Needed" to burn some gift cards.? Tatula Elite from Midway. That reel platform is badazz! Looks like business too.