matbellon3

I use a similar method to Tackle Advisors video. I think it is fun to do but it is in no way necessary to do. With a polished drag surface the drag is noticeably smoother and has a more consistent startup. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfHrLUsl5Lo The reel never stopped working. As for polishing the teeth of the gears it doesn't make a super noticeable difference in smoothness of higher end reels but on say on a Curado or Tatula it does make them feel slightly smoother. But with the bantam and antares I've done it to it just makes them have a slightly lighter start up on the retrieve.

I've done it on a few reels I honestly don't think it makes anything necessarily smoother it just ads a little bit of glassiness to the retrieve.

I wasn't expecting it to look any different as I have been polishing my drag surfaces on most my reels for a few years. I was posting so people could see what it looks like after use. The Bantams drag washer only makes contact on the inner portion of the gear the outer 3/16" is exposed

What are some of the must have/ must try jerkbaits? I have never really fished them that often but it is one of the techniques I plan on working on this year. I already have few One-Tens but other than those I am lacking in the world of jerkbaits.

Polished the drag surface on my bantam when i first got and this is what it looks like after countless bass and quit a few large rainbow and walleye.

Ice finally came off one on the smaller local reservoirs and was able to get the winter purchase out.

Right side so I can see the screen when using the buttons. On my sportsman 120 I pulled out the rod holder to have access to install a mighty mount and the wilderness systems through hull wiring kit.

I would recommend getting a some what decent full size(230-260cm height & kayak width dependent) paddle. I can recommend the Carilisle Magic Plus Angler. They come in at about $120 and have decent blades and a fiber glass shaft. The only downside is they not the lightest paddle but that may not matter as it is not your primary propulsion method.

All my t-wing reels will pass a leader knot just fine and handle using 10ft+ leaders. As far as a specific reels that I feel pass leader knots well are the 2013 Metanium and 2016 Metanium.

Another for Curado

Micro-Chatterbait has been slaying it lately.

In most cases no. But come just before Ice forms and just after ice off I will when fishing bottom contact.

The Twins.

Nothing to fancy. Reel- Daiwa Tatula SV TW 103 H Rod- Dobyns Champion 684c Line- 30lb Berkley X9 Lo-Vis Green to 15lb P-Line Halo Jig- Keitech Model 1 Casting Jig 3/8 oz Green Pumpkin

I would change the knot. I personally use a San Diego Jam knot for most my lure/ hook connections. I would also keep the leader has I like to have a little bit of shock absorption for hook sets.

I've been using P-line halo for most of my braid to leader needs. Prefer it over Blue Label because I've been able to get better knot retention. I always use a PR or FG knot if in a rush alberto.

Daiwa Fuego LT is pretty decent and can regularly be found for under MSRP. If you are willing to spend about $20 more and you could get a Shimano Spheros SW 3000 it is essentially a Stradic FK with some of the bearings replaced with bushings. Still a smooth reel with a nice drag.

Sunline Super Natural has been my go to for awhile for the few techniques that I use mono as my mainline on a casting reel. Though when Suffix Advance came out I picked up a few spools to try out and have found that I prefer it for all my needs because it also works well as leader material. With the Suffix Advance I have found that its best to shop by your preferred diameter not pound test.

The lower gear ratio is it. From what I have read and heard every thing else will be the same as the standard Curado K.

Most likely it will have the same 90mm handle as the regular Curado and the HG.

https://www.americanlegacyfishing.com/shimano-curado-k-low-profile-casting-reels.html Looks like they finally added a PG to Curado K line up.

If you don't want to do it your self I would say "The Tackle Trap" or "DVT".

With the spool tension I have mine set to have no tension but just to eliminate side to to side play. On the dial I use 7 or 8 for zombie casting and use 4-6 for more distance. Having to use your thumb to stop the spool when your lure hits the water is normal and has to be done with most reels unless there is some spool tension. As for skipping with this reel I use use whatever setting I'm using and just use my thumb to control the cast/ skip.

Doesn't exist. Closest is DC but in my opinion they are not that great for skipping as sometimes on short skips the DC system doesn't have time to kick in. Why not just get an SV reel?

Bait Finesse System. It is a specialized bait caster with a shallow spool(about 45yds of 6lb mono), light weight spool(sub 10 grams) made to comfortably cast lures that weight 5 grams or less. The BFS rods for bass are usually marked UL- ML but they are not like a common rod in those power ratings. Most of them will have a soft tip allowing the angler to easily cast the weight, but then have a really good back bone allowing the fish to be fought.