txchaser

This is the spro prime snap. I use these on bigger swimbaits sometimes. What size are you using for regular size bass baits?

My understanding of the gold color was to have -less- flash, since bright flash on a cloudy day would be out of the ordinary. /shrug

Generally I would say if you are worried about straightening a hook on a a-rig you aren't using the right jigheads and you need heavier hooks. In your particular case, being able to bend out a hook could help you a lot if you get snagged, otherwise you are in a bad spot if you are on braid.

I really like Daiwa's "regular" action for cranks, at least in the carbon fiber rods.

Sometimes it is just little bass just unable to get the frog, especially close to the shoreline in small waters. I don't agree with the video's comment about waiting, but the slow-mo is really good. What works the best for me is to start reeling when the frog dissappears and swing as soon as I feel the fish.

I use snaps on most moving baits with trebles, and anywhere a loop knot would be a good choice. I just cut the split ring off. IMO loop knots are scary on flouro. HOWEVER, after buying at least 20 different styles and brands trying to find the right ones, it's down to two, and they are both paper-clip style. They can't pop open and the physics of how it's built make it almost impossible to bend open - not enough leverage. Owner makes some good non-paper-clip ones but they are too long/large and aren't an upgrade anyway. I'll even use them on frogs, and a full body frog hookset won't bend the p-line ones at all. Bigger diameter wire makes for stronger knots on flouro. If you aren't diligent about retying, it'll cost you, but that's not the snap, that is on you. p-line for heavier/bigger presentations, size 1 https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/P-Line_Technical_Snap/descpage-TPBB.html tactical anglers for most presentations including crankbaits - get the micro in 25lb. https://www.amazon.com/TACTICAL-ANGLERS-Power-Clips/dp/B07QX94G98?th=1&psc=1

Z-man trout head 2/0 will fit 3.3 size baits really well, and it has a big eye on it. I prefer gold eyes. IMO the eye makes a difference especially in clearer water where I'm fishing more natural shad colors vs a straight white. The hook is really stout for a 2/0 - I haven't had any bend out even a little bit. I'm trying some other things like the dirty jigs and the 6th sense (gluing eyes on these). I have a hunch that at the end of fiddling, I'll find that it doesn't really matter that much except for eye or no eye. ps: 2.8 seems really really small for a full-size a-rig. Not saying they won't work, but may get overwhelmed by the blades. Let us know what you find out!

I'm often swapping out from working lures to either try to upsize or to learn what else they might bite. Some days it is a bad idea and I feel like a dummy, some days I get huge payoff in fish or in learning.

Beetle spin adds almost no weight or size to a fishing kit, and catches about everything. Was thinking a mepps (inline spinner) but it's kind of snaggy fishing it off of some random pole one cut from a tree. I like your straw idea! On my bucket list is to catch a fish with gorge. Probably pretty inefficient but seems like a good challenge.

Yep, although I'm likely to stay a little longer at the target and see if I can dig something else out. https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-3006-6794-BoatTector-Vinyl-Coated/dp/B014HEW1BK I use this anchor in 18lbs, and clip a 10lb kettlebell to it when I need more weight. I notice a difference between this one and the mushroom style anchors. Anchored everything from a jon boat to a skeeter with it. Seems like lots of people don't carry anchors anymore because of spotlock. Worked for me up to an including "son, you should seek shelter" level of winds. Ps get an anchor rope, most of them float, and they shed water really well vs random rope you have laying around. And you want enough diameter to comfortably pull it up with a bunch of gunk or weeds on it without bothering your hands too much.

In my opinion merino wool is the real deal, and I haven't found a synthetic I like better except in the one case of very high output activity where I really need a wicking focused base layer. In that case an ultralight synthetic is a little better. https://nomadoutdoor.com/collections/sale-tops/products/nomad-durawool-pullover-moss https://nomadoutdoor.com/collections/sale-tops/products/nomad-durawool-baselayer-camo-hoodie-mossy-oak-migrate https://nomadoutdoor.com/collections/sale-bottoms/products/nomad-durawool-baselayer-camo-legging-mossy-migrate The ones I linked are all on sale from Nomad, which is the sister company of Huk. https://nomadoutdoor.com/pages/special-deals 15% signup discount, or 20% veteran/first responder I recent bought some of their durawool bottoms to check it out and because I needed a different weight (in my case a little lighter), and it looks like Smartwool brand quality.

https://www.gore-tex.com/technologies/outerwear While there are plenty of competitors to Gore now, gore-tex is likely still the standard. But the line has split a lot in terms of the breathability<>waterproofness spectrum, as well as how durable the fabric is. I'd bet if you picked which of the gore approaches work for you, it would help you narrow it down. For what it's worth, here's how I do it: Summer - Patagonia Houdini Jacket ($100)- it's really lightweight, more of a running jacket, and packs so small it'll fit in a pocket. I actually carry it because it is small. It won't save me from a four inch downpour, but summer rain here is usually fast and it is no biggie if I end up a little damp. Better than sweating my tail off. No rain pants in the summer, I wear superlight pants and they dry fast. Spring/Fall - Simms Rogue Hoody, got it for something like half price. ($59) Windproof and gets at least an hour of rainproofness. If I sealed the shoulder seams it would probably get two. Little bit of insulation is perfect for brisk mornings. It is quiet, which matters a lot - I'm not a fan of crinkly nylon. Random rain pants to go with it if needed. Winter - Gill OS3 - got it for half off ($150?)- it is very heavy fabric, has wrist seals, etc. I think it's sailing jacket or something like that, as it is nearly overkill for everything but some nutty offshore squall. But totally wind and waterproof, and I've done cold and hungry and I don't need anymore of that in my days Huk rain bib pants to go with it. Be forewarned, the XL in those pants feels like a XXL and I had to go down a size.

Last bottle made it a couple of years before it started to get thick, and it was almost gone by then. It gets subjected to extreme heat, because "Texas", but doesn't get frozen out.

Get one and plug WireShark in and let us know what you find out! -------------------------- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NMEA_2000 I don't think it is TCP/IP given the data rate spec of 250kbps and 50 device max. But maybe some mfgrs are also running their own conversation over the same hardware as the NMEA bus. The article above will probably lead you to the protocol details. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DeviceNet Looks like NMEA is all done at the data link layer, which makes sense for a closed network, no need to anticipate routing. But I did see mention elsewhere of port 2112, which is odd. From looking at the humminbird switch, it's custom cabling that looks just like the devicenet connectors. Probably a standard chipset for a dumb switch wrapped in a waterproof box with marine connectors vs an RJ45. Here's a video of a guy that networks garmins that have Rj45, using a netgear switch. IMO if one spends $2500 bucks on livescope, skimping out on the switch and putting a netgear in a tupperware box is just a terrible choice. But it is clearly possible. Some detail here too. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/259337915_NMEA_Communication_Standard_for_Shipbo ard_Data_Architecture_NMEA_komunikacijski_standard_za_arhitekturu_podataka_na_brodu

If you haven't spent much time setting a hook through a standard weedguard, consider starting with 6th sense axle or trashmaster jigs as they set up like a t-rig. Or the picasso shooter jigs that have light wire weedguard. All of them will be easier to set, especially sitting in the canoe or on stretchy line. For more traditional swim jigs, the sieberts, 6th sense divine, or if you want to overpay for an amazingly good jig, the Evergreen Grass Ripper comes in the same skirt and head colorings as a jackhammer. At least for me the practical differences are pretty minimal, and in details like how the trailer is held on, or skirt colors. Now with all that said, if you aren't already fishing those paddletails on an owner flashy swimmer (or some other weedless underspin) it's a good enough presentation in weedy or small waters that I have a dedicated rig for it, tuned around the 3.8" trailer with the 3/0 flashy swimmer. Sometimes I'll use a gold colorado blade instead of a willow if it's more bluegill as prey than shad.

I hope they aren't catfish

One other thing - watching pros and ex-pros in their 70's cast on video was really helpful for me in terms of form - almost perfect economy of motion. Watch how little work he does here and how none of his body moves except his arms; doesn't need to rock or flex or tense up at all. Also one of the casts is a sidearm but he's sending the bait up instead of parallel to the water for more distance. He does stick his arms out at the end /shrug

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Optimum_Boom_Boom_Weedless_Swimbait/descpage-OBBWS.html With a 8/0 or 10/0 weighted beast hook, both the 6" and the 8". The 6" is really forgiving in terms of the rod, but the 8oz is a big hunk of plastic and needs a serious rod to throw it right. I think the actual weights are on the optimum site. You will need to open up the slit in the bottom further towards the head of the bait or hooksets won't work right. Also it's worth the time to pop the eyes off and superglue them down. This color sort of looks like an offshore/pale bass, or maybe a big shad. Also, I've had some luck during other times of the year if I see what you are seeing above with a near silent deep crank, when couldn't get bit on a rattling one. And the z-man giant TRD in smelt on a 6/0 grip pin hook and a 1/2 oz weight. Stands up like a ned, big and meaty. Edit: on the big swimbait lets them stun it first - don't set the hook early, usually you'll feel them get it and pull as a second action.

-3.3 Keitech on a flashy swimmer, it seems to present as pretty small vs a 3" shad -Blade bait isn't just a winter bait, ripping it like a spoon has worked for me when they are chasing tiny shad -and I haven't fished it yet, but I just bought a 6th sense duke lipless - 5/8oz but only 2" -my favorite has been imitating the dinks chasing all the shad with a 6" or 8" swimbait low and slow and catching bigs TBH a ned rig with 'the deal' color swum at the right depth would probably be effective too

I think it depends a lot on cover and trailer. Weeds, 1/2oz with a zako, is like .83oz, casts better on a light-ish heavy and fishes better too. Braid to leader to snap weeds off. No cover, 3/8oz with a small trailer might make for a MH glass rod with 12lb flouro. Anyway my point is what worked for me was to just keep trying different stuff, because theres so much personal preference and situation in the decision. IMO there are a couple of setups that are bad ideas - stretchy line on a floppy crankbait rod, and braid/leader on a broomstick. I find that my swimjig setups and chatterbait setups are pretty much the same thing.

This video is really cool. 100% chance I'd need a helmet for the roll pitching though.

Seconded - having the right rod matters so much with an a-rig.

I’m more so concerned with line capacity for when I use it for A rigs, which even that I’m not too sure really matters as much as we think it does ??‍♂️

Good thing you don't reel with your feet! Seriously though, wife notices that I get a little grumpy if I don't get to fish. There's nothing quite like being outside, especially now that summer is done around here. I hope it heals up fast for you.