txchaser

I have the helix. The automapping is really nice. Allegedly the SI/DI is better than most.

It won't solve all your problems, but I always put all the snaps on one of the snaps. They come off very quckly, and are easier to get out of the compartment. As an added bonus, they don't migrate, and you can drop a couple of sizes in a single compartment without mixing.

A gold colorado blade owner underspin is really effective when bluegill are on the menu.

For the next couple of strikes don't set the hook at all. Just start reeling. You'll get to feel what happens when they really have it or not, whether they spit it out, etc. I don't expect you'll catch those fish, but you'll be able to feel what's going on.

Okuma Epixor spinning reel, about $40. I have four, and Shimano CI4+. The Shimano is better, but it isn't 5x better. If I had to buy a new spinning reel today I'd buy the okuma and put better carbontex in it to get a smoother drag. The rest of it does just fine.

I was having breakoffs on 10lb Sufix advance, but never on the 12lb. Even on stuff like a light t-rig where I'm definitely not trying to hammer a big hook in. Frustrating because I loved everything else about the line - mostly that it sinks, it isn't stretchy, and it behaves well on a baitcaster. They are both sized big like big game, so the 10lb is probably 12+ lb diameter. I recalled something about them setting the test rating at the break strength tied with a uni knot. I have been using the san diego jam for some time now on almost everything, and getting great results, but I thought hey why not, might as well try it. I used the improved (two turns through the eye) version. Identical 3/0 hyabusa hooks used on both ends. Hooks rotated across knots to ensure there wasn't a problem in a hook eye. Pressure applied quickly like a hookset. Test 1 - SDJ vs Improved Uni - winner was improved uni, broke at the SDJ knot Test 2 - SDJ vs Improved Uni - winner was improved uni, broke at the SDJ knot Test 3 - SDJ vs Improved Uni - winner was improved uni, broke at the SDJ knot Wow! Ok, lets try a double SDJ and see if that helps. Test 4 - Double SDJ vs Improved Uni - winner was uni, broke at the Double SDJ knot Test 5 - Double SDJ vs Improved Uni - winner was uni, broke at the Double SDJ knot Test 6 - Double SDJ vs Improved Uni - winner was uni, broke at the Double SDJ knot Perceived effort to break was higher with the Double SDJ. I'm not going to try to explain why it worked, but if you are using Sufix Advance, you might try a couple of other knots vs whatever your standard is. EDIT: I decided to go dig around and see what HMPE really is. Sufix makes a big deal about it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-high-molecular-weight_polyethylene Same stuff as dyneema/spectra apparently.

Ah so not a Heavy. Thank you.

I've convinced myself that there's a 7'4' heavy daiwa tatula elite rod that one of the pros that fishes a lot of chatterbaits uses. But maybe I'm mixing that up with Hite, who I think is using an evergreen in a similar action? Can't find it anywhere. Anyway I've been thinking I want to try a H/mod (or something about like the tatula R action) because the grass where I fish gets a little nasty and doesn't break off easily. The MH I'm fishing it on now just doesn't seem like it has the backbone to snap it out very well. Which rod is it? Or have I lost my mind?

Bought a few packs of these as a result of this post. They worked really well, and the ROF with a weighted hook was about like a senko. And they fall head-down. The black and red ones look very much like a craw on the fall. Versatile, was pitching them at targets, and using for a good followup bait. Could even followup a missed topwater strike on the toad by just throwing at that spot and letting it sink. Like most Keitech baits, they catch fish really well, but they get torn up quickly. !@#$% bluegills eating the legs off mostly.

+1 these work

I have the deeper pro+ with chirp and used it a lot when I was stuck on the bank. You'll have more information than everyone else fishing around there. It also makes maps. Target separation is good. I still use it from the boat sometimes when I want to see what's up without dragging the boat over a spot. Mostly I use it for finding cover/structure, not for finding fish. It's castable on a MH rod with a lob cast, but be careful.

I'm in the market for a new H rod, at the same time I am putting a frog on I also need something punchy/flippy tied on... so it is time for another rod. If I don't do it I'll keep defaulting to fishing over the top of the weeds with a frog, and around the sparser edges. So I think I'll tie on a punch rig and leave it tied on till I figure it out... weedy at least six months of the year here in Texas, so I know I'm missing a bunch of the fish buried up in there when the sun comes out. I have a Kistler H3 H/F now, and was thinking about adding the Irod IRG754F (magic stick). The Irod seems to get a ton of great reviews, and I can't quite see how there's value in spending a bunch on a super sensitive rod for a bait I can see. Happy to spend more if it'll really make a difference, or use the Kistler as the frog rod and get something else for trying to dig around in the slop. Advice?

The Anglr button is 20-30 bucks and is one click to log location, weather, and that you caught something. If you are willing to pick up your phone it is a couple more clicks to add length/weight/lure. I was sure I didn't need it and could remember everything. I was wrong. Now I just need to remember to use it.

I have the sherpa and the cal coast. The cal coast is a better carrier, but it is harder to get an individual rod out of it. Great for transport though. The sherpa is nice to fish out of since you can get to everything without unsnapping and disassembling, and you don't need rod socks. At this point 90% of the time I'm just using a pair of rod wraps and getting on with it.... but I don't have a use case where I need to get just one rod out at a time either.

Not an expert but I fish braid to a leader a lot. I like it long enough to not be inside the first guide when casting. Ends up about the length of the rod. You see the long leaders on a spinning reel. Make it long enough to go all the way in your reel and if it is a train wreck you can just cut it shorter.

Lots of fish this summer on chatterbaits in Texas. But you often need to run it very near the slop, deeper in the weeds. Enough so that I'm hunting for a heavy rod to make shedding grass easier. They are living up in it, and if they are in the mood it seems to make a great weed line bait. That and a keitech fished the same way; just more gentle.

Everything in the new 100 platform is spotty with grease. Take the 10 minutes and put some in the gears and you'll be happy. It is BS that they ship that way, but /shrug. Other than that they've been great.

You need 3600 or 3700 platform?

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-NRTHLTT.html?from=basres These do a nice job of sitting on top of the weeds, if that's what you are going for.

The SV will do everything the 100 does, and does it a lot better. Can pretty much skip over everything in between. In particular since you are only carrying a rod or two, getting as much versatility as you can will matter. SV was the next thing I bought after getting a fuego. Fuego is fine, but the SV really shines throwing light baits or throwing into the wind, and will sling a rattletrap or a jerkbait a loooong way. 20mph wind might have you turn up the brakes one click and cast lower to the water. And if you forget and do a big overhand cast into the wind you'll get a little fluffing from the wind but nothing major. Tatula 100 should be 100-110 on sale, SV's around 150-160. The 2017-2019 SV is really nice, and you can likely pick one up used for a great price. The 2020 is a nicer form factor (smaller) but doesn't feel as well-built. IMO a used 2017-2019 is probably the best buy out there.

Yes that is the hat.

@James Niggemeyer

The Huk Icon X shirts are amazing. Different than the Icon. They both have cool dots in them that apparently hyper-evaporate. I'll fish all day long in Texas heat, so I'm really serious about sun protection and overheating. These shirts are so good at the cooling I got dehydrated because didn't realize how fast they were offloading the sweat. Wide brim hat - columbia cooling Fingerless columbia cooling gloves Icon X shirts. Barring that get the icon or at least the ones with vents on the back. I have shirts from three or four different makers and the Huk ones really are better. A lot better. Bag of senkos better. For me, this particular item makes more difference than anything I wear - whatever wide brim hat is probably fine, as an example. Neck gaiter - columbia with cool dots - I only wear this when I'm getting a lot of reflection off the water on my neck in the front - sunscreen isn't enough when that happens. Pants - still searching for the best pants. I want to feel the wind through them, and most of the technical pants aren't really built that way. Socks ( yeah seriously) - I tried out short ankle socks this summer and it made a difference. Second best is coolmax socks. Shoes - lightest most breathable shoes I can find that cover the tops of my feet. Frog Toggs seem ok. Not perfect but I'm not on the hunt for something different. Dipping the hat, gloves, and gaiter in the water will make a difference when it gets really hot. I promise you all that if you pre-game some electrolytes you'll feel much better in the heat. And gatorade is a train-wreck with all the sugar in it. Dilute it 50/50 with water or buy g2. Or use Nuun tablets. And if you feel yourself dragging ass, drink some more. It'll feel like your first cup of coffee in the morning.

Anyone have ideas on where to get good information on either of these (fishing license sales by state for 2020) or tackle sales in general?

https://www.vistaprint.com/signs-posters/metal-signs It is amazing how easy it is to order metal signs on the internet, and even more amazing how official they look.