ResoKP

How is the balance point of Daemos with Aldebaran? You don't find it too tip heavy?

I haven't fished Exprides but looking at the 7'6" H lure rating of 7/16 - 1 1/2 oz, looks like a 3/4 oz & bigger jigs if you want to use it for jigs... But the 7'6" MH at 3/8 - 1 oz looks like a nice 1/2 oz jig rod... I'd probably lean towards the 7'6" MH for a jig rod

Daemos is going to fit your list better than FMJ. For frogs, you'd probably want to get a separate, cheaper combo with heavier power and straight braid

You could probably just buy the spool itself to try it out (I don't know if the Steez A spool will fit in the new Morethan PE 1000 though) unless you really need another reel. I would make sure they are interchangeable first though and if they are, wouldn't be a bad idea to have both reels (I got both but my Morethan is on its way...)

I think trailer hooks are very important on spinnerbaits. All of my spinnerbaits have trailer hooks on them. Better chance of hooking ones short-striking...

That 6'9" MH/XF Carbonlite LCG mentioned is a special rod. This would be a sweet combo and should last you a long time before feeling the need to upgrade: Daiwa Tatula Bass Rod 7'1" MH/F Daiwa Tatula 100 7.1:1

Seems like the MH is for you

Niceee!

I do on St.Croix Avid X 6'9" ML/XF but I find it a bit tip heavy. But in the winter, I put it on my ice rod and the 1000 spool lets me get down to 80-120 ft for Lake Simcoe whitefish/lake trouts

But would you use #8 Sufix Siege fishing jigs in brush piles tho I'm in Canada btw. we catch those salmons with 6# lines no problem lol. I've also caught them on 20# straight braid too ?‍♂️ I thought this thread was about jigs.. A jay posts a cool double digit catch video but i see no jigs in there and now we got salmons ?

Yea, line choice seems very personal. Also, I think waterbody conditions in each of our local zones play a big factor too. Though, it seems like some people here are fishing swimming pools with 12lb fluoro if they're managing not to break off or retie so often fishing jigs...?

lol I think we're all on the same page regarding Tatsu as being the best. Nobody is denying that. I'm just surprised so many people use a super stretchy line like InvisX as their go-to line for JIGS that's all. InvisX is a great line but for jigs? No way I'd ever spool it. But I kind of get it. I'm sure there's someone out there that prefers XXH rod fishing a weightless senko and is better than all of us here so he swears by it since it's worked for him the past 200 years.

InvizX is a great line but I cannot stand the stretch using it for jigs/bottom baits. Personally I use FC Sniper 20# for jigs if I'm going the straight fluoro set up. Else, Sufix 832 braid 30# with 15# Blue Label leader. I'll happily use InvizX for finesse stuff like dropshots but for setting the hook with a jig or big single hooks... no stretch is better (for me anyways... apparently I'm alone in this? lol)

I guess how much "noticeable" a bend is can be subjective to each person. I'm probably seeing all those "less than 3/16 of an inch of tip position" because I'm too OCD. Recently spent 4 hours at a fishing show checking out 100's of rods... Saw lots of bends lol. Actually bought a rod there. Had to ask the guy to bring out 4 of the same rod so I can pick the one I like. Retailers probably hate guys like me lol. As a rod builder, do you find higher-end blanks have more curve to them because the blanks are more "raw" ?

lol okay, you do your thing man but if you start to break off constantly or have issues setting the hook or not getting the sensitivity you were expecting, don't blame it on fluoro... ?

... maybe should've gotten AbrazX instead?

Megabass Destroyer FMJ

Not trying to be a D but almost all rods do have a visible bend. If you ask any rod builder they will tell you almost all of the blanks (high-end, low-end doesn't matter) will have varying degrees of noticeable bend. Only a very very very few are arrow straight. I'm sure if you look closely you will see slight bends on all of your rods. If not, have someone who has a trained eye take a look at them. Rod manufactures try hiding it as much as possible building on the straightest axis, etc but really, a perfectly straight blank is almost next to impossible to produce. Honestly the most stressful part of buying a new rod is because of this for me. If I cannot inspect & compare at least 3 of the same rods side by side in person, I usually don't buy it. I know it doesn't affect performance but it bothers me if the bends are "too" noticeable or in the left/right direction.

Fast action

??

It's up to you really... You can learn it the hard way like me first trying the bulk spool (non-leader) only to break off a ton of fish and eventually switching over to using actual leader materials... But maybe the body of water in your area are more forgiving to line abrasion and you'll be fine... Ultimately, it comes down to what you value more: your wallet or "potentially" losing more fish I'd say if you already have some decent spare mono lying around, just try with that first

Leader materials are harder, stiffer, and more abrasion resistant... Non-leader/bulk spool fluoro is softer and more limp to cast better

I thought Gary Yamamoto recommends 3.0 offset round bend worm hook no? Is 4.0 EWG better?

If you go with fluoro, make sure to use actual leader material fluoro. There is a big difference.. For example, use Seaguar BLUE as leader and not Seaguar RED.

Maybe I'm weird but I use both spinning and baitcaster for senkos... I prefer spinning for wacky rigged and baitcaster for texas rigged... Just me or..?