Jig Man

I don't profess to be a big bass fisherman but have caught a few. I find them in all kinds of water from 18" to 30' deep. When I am strictly fishing for big bass I use big baits (3/4 oz jig/7" craw trailer) and I fish deep. Some places hold big fish. There is one spot where we have caught smallmouth to 4# and largemouth to 7#14oz. All of them have been on a ledge off a secondary point 40 yds long.

Yup, I still do, got nuff lead weights to poison planet earth 2 or 3 times over and I 'm not going to change until I 'm out of them. Doesn 't mean that for certain applications I don 't use other sinker material like tungsten, brass or stainless steel but my main sinker material is lead. Me too. I have abut 200 lbs of lead left before I make any switches.

It doesn't melt but after a few years it will rot.

I have 2 favorites for tubes for smallmouth; 1. Gloomis IMX SJR 782 and St. Croix Avid 6.6 MF spinning rod.

For that depth I use tubes, salt craws and jigs most of the time.

I have been fishing a clear highland lake. I have found quite a good number of fish hanging in the 21-23' depth on bluff end ledges which were about 30-50' long. I fished four ways for them and caught them using 3 of the ways. In case I am missing something, I'd like to know how you guys would approach this situation. There were no shad deeper, shallower, or up the bluff from this ledge except for some suspended in deep water with no fish showing up around them. This is the kind of stuff I was seeing.

Your buddy is right. Just carefully drill them out and put new ones in their places when you are finished painting.

It sounds like you really are unsure at this time. I have seen a lot of people like you. I recommend that you take your time because this is a very big venture with you looking at new or near new units. If you are thinking new, look at new non current models. They have been setting around dealerships and the interest on the floor plan is paid every month. Some of them need to go away. Many of them can be bought for $1000-1500 below what they cost the dealership. Since you are slowing down a little in this process, if you really want to know what boats are good and what are not, then, the resale value is a good indicator. Pick out a model or two and check it out in NADA over a period of 5 year listings to see how the resale value has dropped. That lone will steer you away from some brands. What ever brand you end up with will probably turn into your pride and joy. Buying a boat should be a wonderful experience if you take your time and learn as you go. When you buy make sure to only buy from someone who will take you to the water and teach you all you need to know about unloading, loading, and operating the rig in a safe manner. Good luck in your quest.

It all depends on what type of boat you have as to what type material. The man made stuff if not carpeted would have the potential of being slick and maybe causing some problems. I only use treated lumber when I have to replace a bunk. I get the measurements and prepare a new one, put it in the truck and head for the lake. I let someone fish with my boat while I am changing the bunk. It usually only takes a few minutes.

I wouldn't worry about the warranty. A two year old engine should have already shot craps if it were going to. If warranty is a real concern then you can buy extended ones. If this is a dealership boat and not a consignment, then they might offer you some kind of warranty. As for the 150, I think that is the max rating on that boat.

Never haveing owned a Pfleuger I can't comment on the reel. I only have Shimano reels. I do have 4 St Croix Avid rods and I rate them just under the Gloomis IMX. So based on my experience I recommend a Shimano Citica or Curado reel with a Gloomis IMX or second choice St Croix Avid rod. For best all around performance I would get a 7' MHF in what ever brand I chose.

This rig is listed for $2,150 under the average price for that age and model of Skeeter. Either the depressed market or a problem with the unit could make them start out lower than the average value. If you are really interested, you might make a heck of a deal on this one. I'll bet you can get it for $16,500 if you deal hard.

Very good advice. Once you buy a boat and think you are done the costs have just started (sales tax, licenses, titles, insurance, etc) If the economy doesn't improve by next year you will have a very good chance of buying a lot of boat for a lot less money than this year.

There are also a bunch of cheap digital scales on the market. I went through a bunch of them and couldn't find any that would give me a consistent reading. That is why I own a Boga Grip now.

Without knowing the age of the boat/motors/trailer it would be impossible to tell what would be a good price. If you can find that info then you can look it all up on NADA and know if the seller is in the ball park or way over the fence. When you get right down to the deal on anything used, the actual value is what the seller will take and the buyer will give but right now you are on the wrong end of the stick because you don't have engough info.

If it has no license plate get the title from the seller. If you can't get a title then get a bill of sale before you start pulling it down the road. I had a trailer with no number here in MO. The license bureau would not title it for me. I took it to an inspection shop where I know the guys and they said since it had no numbers I could call it homemade. So I had it inspected as a homemade trailer and got a title. I could have also gone through the county sheriff's office and got a sherriff's title which would have been about the same as homemade but would have taken several weeks longer.

I have the 520c units in my boat and have had for nearly a year. My electronics dealer recommended it over the 522 because of the way I use my units. I have them in all kinds of angles and directions and he said the 522 antenna would not work in all those positions. You can network with the other unit but only for temp. I bought Lowrance because I have a good Lowrance support system from guys who have a vast amount of knowledge in use and interpretation of Lowrance.

I have one called the Flatfoot. I wish it had been there when I bought the boat. It is much easier to run the boat with it installed. What ever you buy, be sure it fits your foot control because there is a big difference in the size from brand of tmotors.

If you have white bass in your lake it could be them. They make raids on baitfish and drive them around all over the lake. It is hard to keep up with how fast they move. They are like a bunch of 13 year old boys.

There is nothing wrong with it except I think it is a carb engine and some EPA restrictions are banning carbs from some waters. If it is carbed than most any wrench turner can work on it. Take it for a test drive, check the looks of the lower unit fluid, and have the compression checked. If he hasn't changed the impellor then do it if you buy the boat.

Contrary to what you are doing. It is not a good idea. The cheapest thing you can have on a fishing rig is a good battery set.

My trolling motor battery seems that it isn't lasting as long as it used to. Anyone know of any tips to prolong its charge or do I just need to buy a new battery? The best way to do this is to make sure it is fully charged before you use it. Does it harm a battery to be partially discharged and recharged often or would it be better to fully discharge it before recharging it again? Deep cycle batteries are not made to be fully discharged. They need to be used and then charged back up within 24 hours. Is it alright to leave it on the charger continuously (it's an automatic charger). Some do, I don't because it will cause the water to evaporate more quickly. Will it harm a deep cycle battery to recharge it off a car engine with jumper cables? It won't harm it but you can't get a full charge with jumper cables. When buying a new battery, are the deep cycle marine batteries worth the cost to use on just a trolling motor or will a regular auto battery work just as well? Yes they are. Regular cranking batteries are not designed to operate trolling motors. They are designed to give you a quick output to start an engine not give a low draw over time.

A friend of mine did it with marine plywood to a bass cat about 10 years ago. It is still working great.

I use their spinnerbait and buzzbait boxes. They are nice.

You are only as good as your worst battery. 2 1/2 years old, I'd buy 2 and feel secure instead of wondering what will happen every time I go out. Be sure to get large 185-200 reserve amp deep cycle batteries.