Jig Man

X2

You need a few months lead time to see what is out there in your price range. Start now. You need a lot of time to get some good ideas in your head. Go to dealerships and see what they have to offer. Read the newspaper and go look at boats. Check Craig's list for local boats. Go to boat shows. When you find something you need to really look it over because it is going to be several years old. Get in it and look inside all of the boxes. Check all of the switches and pumps. Get under it and look for damage. Check the transome for cracks. Look the trailer over from front to back on both sides for signs of weakness or bad rust. Check the insides of the wheels for grease indicating bad seals. Look at the tires for uneven wear. You will also need to take a test ride and have a qualified mechanic look over the boat and motor for you before you buy it. Don't be in a hurry because we are in a buyer's market and seem to be that way for quite a while.

4" tubes produce well for me in the winter. I only need 4 colors to cover the spectrum (smoke, green, brown, black).

I only have Shimano spinning reels and none of them are quick fire. The Sahara is a decent reel but the Symmetry is better.

I fish Jig Man jigs in many sizes colors and styles. I fish them because I have 100% control over all phases of production.

One of my buds quit bass fishing and gave me several hundred tubes and Yamamoto grubs as well as 25 packs of brush hogs. I won't need to make any baits for a year or more. Is turning the plastisol bottles upside down and right side up every once in a while enough to keep it ready for use or is there something else I need to do? I'd hate to have a couple of gallons go bad while I don't use it.

yes this is also a very very strong hook but tends to rust and get dull easy, thats the only reason i dont use this hook. jmo tho. I don't know how you are storing them for them to rust. I have some in one of my jig boxes that were made over 5 years ago and don't have any rust on them. Are you leaving a salty trailer on them?

I'v never used it in a boat but pour it down the traps in my RV. We don't even wipe it off the sinks or shower floor until next spring.

My Arke mold uses the Eagle Claw 730. It is a very strong hook.

I had some and they gave me headaches where they pushed against my regular glasses. I sold them Thursday to the guy in the back of my boat.

I don't worry about creeks and other feeder streams. I concentrate on the main body of water and the lower parts of reservoirs. The fish will be shallow especially on windy days. Sometimes they will be on points and sometimes in the backs of coves. My partner and I caught 42 bass Monday on main lake windy points in less than 5 fow.

I'd say spots but the first one looks somewhat like a meanmouth.

I am partial to Gloomis rods and Shimano reels. For me a must have is Gloomis 7' IMX or GLX MHF 843C and an 844C paired with what ever reel you choose. For me it is Curado's.

I to think too fast of a retrieve. Slow down and do some intermitten pauses and see if that doesn't fix the problem.

Word is that Lowrance has something coming out soon that may blow the SI away.

Aren't the direct prices from Do-It higher to encourage people to buy from retailers? Barlow's usually has the best selection of lead molds and hooks. Like someone mentioned you can usually use + or - one hook size in most molds. Allen I can save money with Do-It over the local retailers. I don't order molds from other sources.

If he fishes in the wind than at least a 65#. If he gets to the lee side than most anything will do. One thing rarely discussed is shaft length. Buy one at least 3" longer than original and you will be able to stay on windier banks without the prop pulling out of the water.

I have used a home made one. I had a 16' boat with no room in the front. It was nice to get back a little ways and have some room.

The hook size it typically a suggestion and bigger hooks will work. However, some molds won't take bigger hooks without being modified. Instead of buying from Barlow's why not contact Do-It and talk to them about the mold. They won't be any higher and will probably have the fiberguard and hooks as well. When I order that kind of stuff I get it from them and they have always been very helpful and sometimes offer a good savings for buying components in bulk.

Don't buy the drop until you get the boat. Install the hitch then find the boat and measure how far from the ground to level the trailer. Next, go to the truck and see where that is in relation to the hitch. Then you will know how much drop you will need.

Activity slows down here in MO for me when the temp of the water gets in the low 40°s.

If you are putting a receiver hitch on then you can get lots of different drop downs for it.

I don't throw anything but the double any more. It has out produced every other buzzbait partners have used whether I'm in the front or back of the boat.

I have never seen anyone fish FnF with a baitcaster. I might even pay to see it. ;D

Some people run a fogging agent into their cylinders but I would put a stabilizer in the gasoline and go run the motor letting the motor load up on stabilized gas. I would never run the motor out of gas. As for the lower unit, if it hasn't been changed, I'd change it. If it has been changed I loosen the lower screw and make sure there is no water in it. Then I'd cover the boat and if left outside put the motor in the down position so on winter moisture can collect in the prop area. If it is going to be for a long time then it would be best to take the batteries out so they can be recharged monthly.