Jig Man

I am partial to Gloomis rods and Shimano reels. For me a must have is Gloomis 7' IMX or GLX MHF 843C and an 844C paired with what ever reel you choose. For me it is Curado's.

I to think too fast of a retrieve. Slow down and do some intermitten pauses and see if that doesn't fix the problem.

Word is that Lowrance has something coming out soon that may blow the SI away.

Aren't the direct prices from Do-It higher to encourage people to buy from retailers? Barlow's usually has the best selection of lead molds and hooks. Like someone mentioned you can usually use + or - one hook size in most molds. Allen I can save money with Do-It over the local retailers. I don't order molds from other sources.

If he fishes in the wind than at least a 65#. If he gets to the lee side than most anything will do. One thing rarely discussed is shaft length. Buy one at least 3" longer than original and you will be able to stay on windier banks without the prop pulling out of the water.

I have used a home made one. I had a 16' boat with no room in the front. It was nice to get back a little ways and have some room.

The hook size it typically a suggestion and bigger hooks will work. However, some molds won't take bigger hooks without being modified. Instead of buying from Barlow's why not contact Do-It and talk to them about the mold. They won't be any higher and will probably have the fiberguard and hooks as well. When I order that kind of stuff I get it from them and they have always been very helpful and sometimes offer a good savings for buying components in bulk.

Don't buy the drop until you get the boat. Install the hitch then find the boat and measure how far from the ground to level the trailer. Next, go to the truck and see where that is in relation to the hitch. Then you will know how much drop you will need.

Activity slows down here in MO for me when the temp of the water gets in the low 40°s.

If you are putting a receiver hitch on then you can get lots of different drop downs for it.

I don't throw anything but the double any more. It has out produced every other buzzbait partners have used whether I'm in the front or back of the boat.

I have never seen anyone fish FnF with a baitcaster. I might even pay to see it. ;D

Some people run a fogging agent into their cylinders but I would put a stabilizer in the gasoline and go run the motor letting the motor load up on stabilized gas. I would never run the motor out of gas. As for the lower unit, if it hasn't been changed, I'd change it. If it has been changed I loosen the lower screw and make sure there is no water in it. Then I'd cover the boat and if left outside put the motor in the down position so on winter moisture can collect in the prop area. If it is going to be for a long time then it would be best to take the batteries out so they can be recharged monthly.

I have been using Symmetrys for years. I have 7 or 8 of them in sizes 1000, 2000, and 2500. They are very close to the Stradics that I have. I think it is one of the best buys for the money.

I'd check the seals on the box lids. That is the most likely place. Laquer thinner is a good product to make the old carpet turn loose.

Shop vac for the inside and Bass Boat Saver for everything else (seats, fiberglass, trailer, tires, windshields, motor)

I have tried them all and the Alberto's knot is what works best for me.

I have one and wouldn't be without it. But having one depends on the boat and how it is used. I launch a lot by myself and have to park the fiberglass boat on concrete ramps. A keel guard is a must for me. If you beach a boat in campgrounds, etc. it has little use since you are only protecting a small portion of your hull.

I have been using jigging spoons since way before you were born. Any line be it mono, fluro, braid, etc will work. The key is watching the line as the bait falls and having a good enough rod to detect a strike. I am currently using Power Pro braid with a fluro or mono leader. I never go on the water without at least one jigging spoon tied on.

Build yourself a jig to hold the blade then drill what ever size holes you want. Use a file to smooth the back side then give it a try. If it doesn't work there is always JB Weld.

Check the line to see if there might be a small nick in it. That can cause all kinds of trouble.

My rods never come out of the boat. They are either in a horizontal rod rack in one locker or in rod sleves in the bottom of the other locker. Some of them are 10 years old and I have seen on adverse effects from their method of storage. I wouldn't be afraid to take the reels off and put the rods under the bed for the winter.

I hose mine down really good than use a shop vac. It gets a lot of gunk that the hosing didn't take care of.

I am not sure of the proper key strokes for that unit so check your manual and try a soft reset. If that doesn't work then try a hard reset. Back up your waypoints on an SD card before you do the resets.

The thing to do when looking for trolling motor batteries is to make sure that you are getting a DEEP CYCLE trolling motor battery with lots of RESERVE AMPS not cca. Get 185-200 reserve amps and they will last all day. Treate them properly and they will last for several years. I buy from marine dealers or boat accessory shops because they have knowledgeable people who work there. Many discount store workers and auto parts guys know nothing about what a trolling motor battery is.