Jig Man

The x510c is selling for $399 and the LMS 520c without the GPS is selling for $449 at Cabelas right now. There just weren't a lot of the lms 520c's left when I was there a week ago. The 520 is well worth the extra $50 for the convenience of having a gps at both places.

I had one at the console for 2-3 years (LMS 480). I probably had 20 wpts marked on it. I put 2 520s on last year and now have 500 wpts. It is so convenient especially in the wind to go wpt wpt and have that thing marked without having to run to the console or ask someone who doesn't have a clue to mark it for me.

;D ;D ;D ;D The only vegetation we have is a little moss on the ramps. I have read that the 2.4 version of software upgrade was supposed to correct any of those kinds of problems. I haven't upgraded from the 2.3 because that is not a problem that I have. Mine do loose the bottom for a few seconds around ledges especially if the drop is over 5' like from 32-37'.

I have 2 of them and they are networked and hooked up with an ethernet cable. They are not alike. Even though they are both looking at the same thing the screens are noticably different. Here are my settings (yours won't be identical but can be similar). Sonar Menu [ ] auto sens [ ] auto depth upper and lower limits set from about 10-20 below the deepest I expect to fish chart speed 100 % depth cursor visible overlay data on bow depth time temp overlay data on console depth enormous time sonar features [ ] amplitude scope ping speed on console unit 100% ping speed on bow unit when not etherneted 50% ping speed on both 75% when etherneted sounds off GPS setup [x] tracking smooth track up [x] auto zoom overlay data time (small) depth (enormous) Sensitivity is not a constant. It can be anywhere from 80-95% with color line in the 60s to low 70s. System setup [ ] popup help I hope this gives you a place to start.

X2

I don't know what any of those letters mean but if you are fishing grass then you will need some upmh in the rod. I use mostly good quality M F 6.5' rods but you may need a MH.

Some of my braid has been on for over 5 years. If you want to freshen it up then take it off and turn it around.

The 522 can not be tilted very much and still pick up sats. I think you should get a 520 for the bow.

I can not speak for the MH. I had a Gloomis MH and traded it for a M. I do have the Gloomis M and Avid M rods. I find that the Avid will handle heavier baits than the Gloomis but the Gloomis is a bit more sensitive. I wouldn't give up either one of them.

If you are buying them ready made use any paint you want. The fish don't care. I have caught many fish on unpainted heads, after all do you paint your sinkers on the front of Trigged worms? Color and paint is not nearly as important as presentation and type of retrieve. Paint is for the fisherman more than it is for the fish.

You will get all kinds of responses about what jig heads work best in what situations like football in rocks and arke in wood. The best answer I can give you is to try them out in your areas and see what works. One if my fav banks is a long rip rap. We caught 56 bass off it one day last week. I plan to lose at least 1/2 dozen footballs on it every day, and usually do. I have had good luck with banana heads (better than football) on this rip rap. I had an arke tied on from a previous trip and was too lazy to change, thinking it would be gone in a cast or two. Well, it is still tied on and I caught several fish on it that day. For some reason it came through the rocks just fine. I am planning to go back with arkes and see if that was a fluke.

I have carpal tunnel and have had to go to lighter rods and reels. I also have learned to cast with either hand so I alternate which way I fish to give my self a break every 20 minutes or so. I had tendonitus when I played golf and the arm bands did give me some relief.

Jann's Barlows Stamina Ztackle just to name a few.

I have trailers from 1" to 10" long. I try several every trip to see what is working that day. Sometimes they like is small and sometimes they like it big, just like OH never mind. ;D

Distilled water.

Tubes are the best sm baits I have ever used. I only use 4 colors (melon/pepper, pumpkin seed, smoke, and black neon). If they won't hit one of those colors they can go hungry. I use the 4" flippin' size. I have some smaller ones but rarely put one on.

Fishing that shallow I would only use 1/4-3/8 oz jigs unless it were windy so I'd use no more than a MH.

While that used to be true, with the advent of modern smart chargers in the last 20 years, if they have a maintenance float stage the batteries will not lose water. Not with my Dual Pro. I fish a few times a year for 3-5 weeks every day. I put the charger on every time I return to camp. In a couple of weeks my cells are low and I have to add water. Winter before last I contacted the MFG and talked to them about leaving the charger on for a couple of months while I was gone. They said under no circumstance should I do this. They said take the batteries to some one who will maintain them or get someone to come by and charge them every couple of weeks.

It all depends on the depth of the water and the size of the jig. I fish lots of ledges which are "off shore". I use M MH and H depending on the depth of the ledge and the size of the bait. Sometimes I fish 50' deep with a M and a 1/4 oz depending on what I am doing. I don't even own an extra heavy rod.

You don't state enough info. (glass boat, alum boat, outboard or electric only). If the trolling motor is a permanent bow mount then putting a ducer on it will be just fine. If it is one you take on and off I'd rethink that. I understand not wanting to drill holes in the boat. You can use a mounting board like comes with Lund boats and put the ducer on it. If you plan to use the unit to find and catch fish, save your money until you can get at least a 480X480 pixel unit. If you are only caring about depth then any unit will do.

I have 7 HMGs and they are very good and very sensitive but a little heavier than my Gloomis rods.

The bait was the same as I always use for sm a 4" tube. The water was the same because I was on the same bank all day. The water was 55.6 all day long.

It all depends on what I want to do. There are fish at both ends of the lake and they all have to eat. I have been fishing both ends of the lake where I usually go. The fish are biting at both ends on grubs, tubes, and jigs.

This morning 4 of the first 6 bass were smallmouth in the 14-16" category. Then we caught 49 largemouth and spots without another smallmouth. Then the last 2 fish of the day were smallmouth. All but one of these fish came off a 1/2 mile rip rap that has water from 1-70'. The fish were from about 10-30' deep depending on what part of the rip rap and what time of the day. I can't figure out why there weren't more smallmouth there and why early and late.

There are a number of ways to make a mold or you can start out with some from a place likes Jann's Netcraft. Since you are going to have to have plastisol, dye, glitter, softner, etc. you might as well spend a few bucks on one or more of their molds to use as you gain experience in making baits. I make my molds from Bondo. I use a non stick pan. I glue the baits to it. Spray them with cooking oil. Mix up the Bondo. Pour it on and go away until tomorrow. I take the mold out of the pan. Peel out the baits. Touch up the edges of the bait cavities with my Dremel and am ready to pour some plastics. When I pour plastics, I spray my molds before every pour with garlic spray. That keeps them slick and puts a scent into the baits. It isn't perfect but it works for me.