Jig Man

So does Stacy King, but those guys get them for free. I'd fish from a Nitro if they were free and I didn't have to eat the depreciation.

Working with fiberglass on the inside of stuff is basically a nobrainer. If you have room and a dremel tool, you should be able to cut away the old fiberglass and take the remaining wood out and redo the whole thing with new resin. You might be able to get a piece of aluminum or stainless to replace the wood.

I haven't checked the NADA guides lately but Nitro used to be the fastest depreciating boat on the market.

If you plan to fish big or windy water then go fiberglass. I have been in all kinds of alums. of sizes to over 20'. Some of them ride like glass boats when it isn't windy. When it is windy they beat your guts out. They are also hard to control when fishing in the wind. I have had some of both and don't plan to leave the glass world again for many years.

I run and gun after I find some type pattern. I start out in a good area hitting points, pockets, etc. When I find fish on a couple of like places, I start moving around to other places like them. I won't run over 15 or 20 miles to a new spot though.

This seems to be the slowest site on the net. Is it just me????

totally *** backwards. fill from the bottom.

I use a modified San Diego Jam for all types of lines including fluro.

I am not drilling holes in a $12000 motor. I am willing to try it out for the neighbor if I can find the proper connectors. I don't need a hole shot. Just helping out the guy next door, maybe.

There is a top screw and a bottom screw. Take the bottom one out first then the top one and let it drain into a container. It takes a small amount to refill it. Buy you a bottle of your oil and a pump. Screw the pump into the bottom hole and pump it till it comes out the top. Replace the top screw unhook the pump and replace the bottom screw. Wipe it down and you are done. You should do this at least twice a year. You should change your impellor every 3 years.

Yes they do!! I keep hearing that so I called 3 Wal-Mart Super Centers in 3 different towns. 1 of them had no deep cycle batteries at all and the other 2 had one choice each, a 160 reserve amp 27 series. That is not really a very big reserve battery IMO.

The guy next door has one he wants me to try out. It has no documentation and no mounting hardware. I wouldn't mind trying it out but don't see how I can keep it on my motor. Anyone got a clue??

The key thing to remember is reserve amps not cranking amps. Get a deep cycle of 185-200 reserve amps and you should be fine. I have used several brands and have very few complaints.

I agree that the transducer placement is the probably culprit. You are shooting craps unless you grind out the top layer of glass and get to a good surface before putting the transducer down.

For me fishing is all about boat control and positioning. If your boat is not where it should be for you to make good casts you might as well be at home. Therefore, I fish into the wind about 90% of the time. I also try to find windy places and fish where the wind is the strongest. One of the guys I sometimes fish with fishes with the wind and we rarely have a good day when in his boat.

I have been using a TE 82 for 5 years hauling around a 20.5' glass boat. It does a great job because I use only batteries with lots of reserve amps. I had 200 reserve amp batteries for 4 years and they did a great job. Last fall I replaced them with 185 reserve amps and they are working out just fine. Get good reserve amps, keep them watered, and charge them within 24 hours after each use and they will really haul that 17'er around.

Unless I am missing something, you have never stated the boat size.

For a four stroke that is not high hours, especially if they troll. It does seem a bit pricey for a boat that is close to 9 years old. You might want to look at the nada guides before you turn loose of your money. http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-24-38-5692-0-0-0&l=1&w=24&p=38&f=5694&gc=MR&gtc=MR&m=0424&y=1999&ml=C http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-24-38-5692-0-0-0&l=1&w=24&p=38&f=5694&gc=MR&gtc=OB&m=0010&y=1999&ml=H http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-24-38-5692-0-0-0&l=1&w=24&p=38&f=5694&gc=MR&gtc=TR&m=0001&y=1999&ml=B

Your boat wieghs in at 1450 pounds. You motor is +- 420 lbs. Your trailer is probably at least 750 lbs. Add 50-75 per battery, 30 for tmotor and 8 lbs per gallon of gasoline and you will be in the ball park.

UMMM I'm thinking maybe it is the other way around, not enough trailer in the water. Experiment with depths until you can drive your boat on the trailer, let is settle on the bunks, trim up the engine and drive it till the eye makes contact with the front roller or what ever you have on the trailer. Once you have the magic depth, remember it and do it every time.

I have Frog Toggs--- I hate them. I only wore them once and gave them to my wife as a wind suit. I have Red Head---gortex cammos for hunting and fishing. They work pretty good. I have 10 X---gortex for warm weather fishing. They work pretty good. When I really want to stay dry, I pull out my 100 mph gortex. They are the best I have ever worn!!!

I have been using a Magellan for 4 years. I use it for marking spots on the water, navigating on water and land, biking, hiking, and geocaching. I have 2 software pkgs with it and several sd cards. I also have a topo map for 95 lakes. It has been with me from MO to MX to Canada. I rarely go anywhere without it, except Wal-Mart. ;D

Your #11 pork frog probably is the all time best producing trailer for a jig. The only problem is keeping them wet when more than one rod is rigged. I have a general rule of thumb for jigs: 10-20 fow 1/4 oz jig, 15-25 fow 3/8 oz jig, 20-30 fow 1/2 oz jig, deeper than 30 a 3/4 oz.

Jack it up and take one wheel off. It will look a little tacky and be a little inconvenient but it won't go anywhere.

About $150 to start out Lead-----------$2 per pound Lead pot-------$50 mold-----------$25 hooks----------$20-100 per 1000 weed guard----$5 per 100 paint------------$2.50 per oz skirt material---$20 per lb I buy my stuff at Shorty's Hooks, Ztackle, Jans Netcraft, Barlows, Bass Pro, Cabelas, Do-It and Stamina.