Pogues2300

Just a quick question is the idea behind bfs using bait casters to replace spinning or more to it?

I use 30lb suffix 832 to16# sniper fluoro for chatterbaits with that rod. Don’t feel I’m pulling the hook from the fish but maybe I’m old and slow lol

Does he love it?? That would explain a lot to me about these forums if he does.

I’ve used mh/fast many times for a swim jig and it works well. And as someone stated if you are in thicker cover I think that’s the way to go. Lately I’ve been throwing a swim jig on my nrx+ 844c mbr (this morning most recently) and really like it. Enough back bone to set the hook and a little give to help keep fish pinned. Probably could strike a similar balance with mh/fast with mono or just mono leader.

I use poison adrena 7’3” versatile which is mh/mf and I love that action. I think it strikes a good balance of being able to rip it through grass and still some give to help while fighting the fish. I know some people use glass but that wouldn’t feel right for me.

Pretty sure the Seth feider or Randy blaukat video explains it honestly some comes down to trial and error

The biggest increase in sensitivity for any fishing I’ve done is when I went braid to fluoro on my spinning rod all your numbers measure that?

Why? Moving baits many times produce reaction strikes. I’m basically a novice in bass fishing compared to many of you but I’ve caught my biggest 5 bass speed cranking around 14 ft on an 8 metanium mgl b … so I think there’s something to it

If you aren’t using live scope and playing video games and casting over and over at a target watching how they react I wouldn’t worry about the subtleties. I’ve fished with friends in kayaks using that technology and I literally only use navionics on my phone sometimes they catch more sometimes I do

So I use 30 See you on a vast amount of threads I look at. I know you love big game… wondering if you also think you need slow gear ratios to fish. I’ma fan just asking

Cool topic I have no clue! I’ve had a 25#Muskie fight less than a 5lb bass a few times but on occasion the Muskie took my kayak for a cruise…. Sorry a bit off topic

Pretty sure it’s easier to slow down than speed up. I use high gear for everything and apparently the bass don’t mind. In the past the technology made it much harder to reel deeper cranks on higher gears… I use metanium 8 for my depths up to 16 feet because I like to speed crank and it’s effortless. Another reference is Google Aaron Martens high gear…. Pretty sure he said he uses 8:5:1 23 out of 25 setups… he was one of the best of all time

Check out hair jig Seth Feider on YouTube. Randy Blaukat did a video talking about them recently as well. I tried Seth’s take on it last fall and had a blast in Minnesota! Zero trailer

I don’t fish anywhere where I need every inch of dive a bait needs I just adjust the bait per depth. I’d gladly trade a foot of depth for the versatility tying on a leader of various needs. That’s just me though, thanks for the point of view

Just curious what the advantage is of straight fluoro, I use braid to leader, never once had a knot fail and like braids manageability. Am I missing some advantage? This forum has provided a ton of insight for me and I appreciate it.

Frydog you have some great posts

I personally prefer graphite and my favorites for that are orochi flatside special and imx pro 845 cbr but those are higher than you want to spend. I know a couple people who like st croix mojo bass glass 7’4” mh for 1.5 square bills. It’s around your price point.

Hello and welcome

Medium heavy fast rod

Now I’m more interested in what happens to the line if you use straight anything…. Seems using a leader that was less lbs would help keep the integrity of the main line but I guess I’ve never seen any topic on it. Maybe if I tag it with # big game I’ll get more answers lol

Don’t mind fishing straight braid in shallow water from my kayak making shorter casts although most of my straight braid usage is probably top water. I’ve literally NEVER had my fg knot fail I can’t be alone here. But many people say they don’t use a leader because it’s one more thing that can fail. I understand that in principal but in practice it’s been a non issue. I have snagged on part of a bridge before and was pretty happy I was using a 12lb leader. Also this part I’m curious about. For those who said something like this is why I use mono…. How much of the line is compromised after pulling to break it at a random spot or doesn’t it work like that?

He stated he already owns a Sierra 735. also I fish from a kayak and do a mix of standing and sitting and all my rods are 7’ and over longest being 7’6” and have zero issues with those lengths setting the hook or working the bait standing or sitting but suppose everyone is different.

I’m sure plenty do depending on how they have it rigged. I just wanted to identify a rod you didn’t already own that could be used for a fluke as well as many other techniques. Personally if I had to only pick three rods a medium heavy fast casting rod would be one. I probably use that the most now that I think of it along with a crank bait rod and a medium spinning rod.

Because it is such a versatile rod. I fish weightless flukes on my nrx 873 crr although I do use a super line ewg which is just a bit heavier than standard hook. It’s a 7’3” medium heavy fast rod. They have Dobyns series just below or above your price point or there’s Daiwa Tatula . Tons of techniques you can do with those rods that would fill holes.

I personally would get something in the 7’-7’3”ish range in medium heavy fast casting. If I knew your budget could recommend some or if you already like Dobyns pick one from whatever price range you want although I’ve never personally owned one.