Bass Rutten

Cabelas makes a 2 piece 7'0" heavy/fast casting rod rated at 3/8-2 1/4oz lure weight, fish eagle series model FE54C706-2-B. I've owned and traveled with mine over ten years, I throw jigs and small swimbaits mostly with it and to this day it's still running about $70.00, great value imo.

Natural means matching the local forage in the waters you fish... bluegill, perch, shad, baitfish, crawfish, etc. I’ve found an easier way is to just match the color of the bottom of the lakes or rivers you fish as prey will be close to the color of their surroundings to blend in. In weedy lakes-green pumpkin or watermelon, clay bottom-red or orange, mud-brown/black, etc. Keep it simple, size, vibration, depth and speed of the lure are all more important than color.

Is this Dobyns sister company?

That's a real bruiser, great way to end the year, great lakes?. I tried throwing some jerks on casting gear last year (with mono) and it just didn't feel right, it may have been the line, I'm so used to the feel of braid with jerks, it just felt disconnected or something. The snapping action felt unnatural as well and I just couldn't get used to it. Maybe I'll give it another shot with some fluoro this time.

Thank you! I think I found a nice quick dirty solution, I looked up some crankbait finishing videos on YouTube and one of the comments mentioned nail polish, I happened to have some clear nail polish which I brushed a thin coat of over the affected areas, seems like it may do the trick, time will tell...

Hey folks, Pictured below is probably my best producing squarebill color last fall, the little reflective “scales” started coming off after some use and I was wondering if there was any sort of overcoat I could spray on that might keep them on while not interfering with the reflectiveness of them. Thanks in advance.

I believe I am in the minority by throwing jerkbaits on spinning gear as it seems most people are throwing them on baitcasters nowadays. I would like to hear some discussion about what set ups you use from rods, reels and ratios to lines and leaders if applicable. Having recently picked up some bigger pointers which may be too big for my spinning rod (1/4-1/2 rating) I was also curious about setups for anyone who throws heavier jerks like 5/8 to 1 ounce.

I love the rust restricting aspect of the box but that price is cray-cray considering I can probably get more jigs into a standard 3700. Change my mind ?

Caffeine shad

I have experimented with every method mentioned and have found this to be by far the best solution, clean, cheap, and simple, 2 wraps of 20 gauge wire.

Except that's not a solution for those who use clips. I use the same rod for squarebills as I do for spinnerbaits and prefer clips for quick bait swaps.

Fairly shallow, 3-7 feet, or about where the first weedlines grow in the lakes in my area, and I'll extend this tactic out across flats too. It's just a reaction bite much like rat-l-traps except really shallow. Keep in mind I fish natural, weedy, midwest lakes and this bite may or may not not exist on other types of waters.

One solution which I found to be better and longer lasting than braid, split rings, or tubing is to use a few wraps of 20 or 24 gauge wire, the same wire used for hand tying rubber skirts to jigs,works like a charm!

The first crank I tie on, right at ice-out, on day one of the fishing season is a manns 1-minus or similar wake-bait, sounds crazy but a friend of mine has made me a believer more than a few times, I’ve had very good luck with them mid-day in icy waters reeling them pretty quickly. Square bills I will throw nearly year round. I don’t cast shad raps much but I will troll them later in the season.

The answer to this question needs context, specifically what lure and what line. I wouldn’t dare tie a 7 or 8 inch rising son and its monstrous 10/0 or 12/0 hook on my 795 with mono. A smaller megabass magdraft or keitech impact? Maybe.

Ah well, looks like it'd have a similar presentation and action as shellcrackers which I have a few of

@Jig Rookie who makes that crappie wake?

G-Loomis NRX 804c - 6'8" Heavy/Fast Shimano Curado 71 - 14# Sunline Fluoro Used mainly for jigs, occasionally plastics. G-Loomis NRX 852s - 7'1" Med/X-Fast Daiwa Tatula 3000 - 10# Power Pro Plastics- Weightless, wacky, neko, jika, mojo. G-Loomis IMX PR8400s - 7'0" ML/X-Fast Daiwa Fuego 3000 - 10# Power Pro Mainly for jerkbaits, occasional dropshot. Dobyns Fury 705CB - 7'0" MH/Mod-Fast Shimano SLX 151 - 40# Power Pro Cranks, spinners, chatters, ploppers. Dobyns Fury 795c - 7'9" MH/Fast Daiwa Tatula 200HL - 17# Sufix Advance Mono Glidebaits, wakebaits. 13 Fishing Muse Black MBC79H - 7'9" H/Fast 13 Fishing A3 - 20# Sufix Advance Mono Weedless paddletail swimbaits. Other than the above I have 2 St. Croix panfish rods, and a St. Croix Mojo Bass 8 weight flyrod.

I see, my bad, the rod blank is somewhat parabolic which helps keep fish pinned.

I’m not following you about what’s conflicting about what i said, I personally find the 795 perfect for trebles and a little softer than I like for driving single hooks home, specifically weedless ones where a big ‘ol honkin hook has to be driven through a thick plastic body and then into the fish. I have not thrown exposed hook paddle tails on that rod but I have a feeling it would probably do ok for them.

Everyone’s got their own idea of what is ideal for all different aspects of fishing, go with what you got confidence in.

The 795 has a mod-fast taper, it is absolutely ideal for treble hooked lures and underpowered on weedless paddles you have to drive a hook through, I have a different rod with a true fast action for those... but that's just like my opinion man

Loaded questions there. I fish swim baits from 5-7” only because in the waters i fish 5+ pounders are few and far between. Most swimbaiters will recommend the 9 inch slammer, I use the 7 incher. I use clips myself, except on the paddletails, but it’s a personal preference. Where are you located?

You’re right on with this thinking, three lures can cover everything you need to do. It is a myth that swimbaiting is expensive, anyone that tells you that has either not delved into it or was not smart about it. The lures are generally higher quality, and last a lot longer whereas conventional bass fishing nickels and dimes you to death. An s-waver, an ms slammer, and a Huddleston is a very good starter kit for about $100 that covers all the bases, and the 795 will handle them all nicely. Of course losing them regularly will get expensive which is why your rigging, knots, line etc and all the little details are very important when chucking large baits for large fish, be mindful of these things and you’ll rarely lose them.

Nice try bait monkey, I know this your secret account