Finessegenics

International hockey competitions and hockey played pretty much anywhere outside of North America are a little less thrilling. They play on a larger rink so less contact between players and a slower game.

If I’m adding weight to the stick bait (a Texas rig or a flickshake jig) then I’ll use the senko alternatives. I noticed the senko alternatives usually have better action when they are falling faster through the water column. Weightless and it has to be a Senko for me. Nothing compares. I whine about durability and price too but they just work.

Hockey but for the sake of discussion im not gonna count that one. The half pipe for both skiing and snowboarding is really cool.

i think OP would be better served by answering his question rather than arguing semantics

I never understand why rods pushed as punching rods were Mod Fast…My guess is with that huge weight which is pegged the bass has a lot of leverage to spit the hook. So a more parabolic rod should keep the fish pinned longer since it’ll take more for that fish to “straighten up” the rod to where it can break loose since there is not as much tension on the line. I don’t punch much but I use a 7’4 H/F. In my eyes it is a true “Fast” rod and works fine.

I don’t have the knowledge to honestly answer any of those questions. I can only talk about what I have seen first hand with the different braids. From my experience the 8 strand braids are smoother and more limp than the 4 strand. If you run regular power pro through your fingers and then an 8strand like suffix 832, you will know what I mean. In theory the 8 strand should cast further then but I haven’t noticed a difference in my fishing. I actually prefer the 4 strand. The 8 strand has been more prone to weird breaks in the line and especially wind knots. The wind knots are probably my fault though. Just something I’ve noticed. I have some 8strand in 50# that I will put on a frogging rod this season. We’ll see how that goes. Hope this helps. We have some line gurus on here who get really technical so hopefully they chime in.

Best analogy I’ve heard. I find lure ratings more indicative of a rod’s strength but even at that…some brands like to overestimate what their rods can do while others underestimate. And even my conclusion that they are under/overestimating is subjective. So it comes to down personal preference.

Only when I’m catfishing!

I’m a finesse fisherman by nature but I don’t have the patience to fish a wacky or weightless senko deeper than ~ 8 feet. More than 10 feet and I will begin using a dropshot rig as mentioned here. A long leader length is key so the wacky rigged bait has time to do and space to do its shimmy. I imagine a Carolina or split shot rig will have a similar effect but I’ve never tried them.

I’m partial to the Johnston brothers the way you are to Seth . For bucket A it’s between them 3 and Drew Cook. Speaking of Feider, I think he will go back to back on AOY. Who else has made an AOY prediction? There are a lot of anglers who are consistent at the SJR. You won’t make a bad pick out of bucket A but everyone has a stinker every once in a while.

Been switching my picks in bucket A and E for a while now. So many good guys to pick in bucket A it’s hard to narrow down. I have 3-4 in mind.

I use a MH but I don’t fish heavy cover really. In the rare event that I am (and around me heavy is just thick vegetation), I will use the H. My MH rod which I use for jigs is rated up to 1 oz. So a 1/2 oz jig + trailer + skirt + weedguard is still fine for the rod to handle. I suggest that your rod’s rating be in line with what you’re throwing and that’s it, unless you have a reason to step up to a H.

It’s hard to narrow down a rod for that versatile of fishing. I think a 6’6 - 7’0 M/F baitcaster setup would be your best bet as others have mentioned. I like the Mojo Bass. The 7’1 M/F Mojo is a versatile rod but is a little long for fishing jerkbaits, and I imagine that can be uncomfortable in a canoe. Maybe take a look at the 6’8 M/F. While both M, i don’t know if the 6’8 has the same power the 7’1 does. The 7’1 Mojo feels like a “M+“ compared to other St Croix rods I’ve tried. Reels are hard to mess up, if you feel like splashing a bit of cash the Curado K is a favorite of mine. At a more affordable price there is the SLX which is awesome and I also added a Daiwa Fuego to my Arsenal this past year. It’s an awesome reel. I’d look at something in the 6 speed. For line I’d go 12# mono. Or you can use braid too and tie on whatever leader you need.

That’s cool. Didn’t know they existed!

I hope all goes well. The amount of boat thefts I've been hearing about is absurd.

Like already mentioned, it really depends on the lures you're throwing and the cover you're fishing around. For the species you detailed, I imagine a MH/F will be your best bet. You can throw spinnerbaits, spoons, chatterbaits and crankbaits which work well for both species.

I do read reviews but I always double check with you guys first ? and good point @NYWayfarer. Even if something has good reviews but I see a few complaining about the exact same problem, I try to steer clear.

I've been looking to pick up a Victory for some time now. I'm having a hard time deciding between 3 of the models though...My question is uber specific so any input on any 3 of the models I mention would be greatly appreciated. This rod I'm looking to get will be replacing/doing the same job as my 7' MH/F Avid X (3/8-1). I throw swingheads up to 1/2 oz, lighter wire jigs up to 1/2 oz, texas rigs, swimbaits, sometimes spinners and chatters. My question is which of the following Victory rods would you prefer for these applications, and how are they different from each other? There are a number of models which spec-wise aren't so different. (I haven't been able to fiddle with them in store yet, but I'm planning on doing so next week). Thanks in advance. Here they are: 7'3 H/XF, 3/8-7/8 7'3 MH/F, 5/16-1 (probably my best bet) 7'1 MH/F, 3/8-3/4

I like smaller chunks too. I don't even tip the hook, I usually thread them onto the keeper if the chunk has enough meat. So I do get away with some standard size ones because I thread them on, the presentation stays compact. My favorite so far has been the KVD Chunks, both Jr and Sr. They don't have crazy action but just help the jig look alive. They float down slow and subtly when hopping or dragging the jig. They're pretty hard to find nowadays but I still have a few left. If not, the Paca Chunk Tiny or Standard is what I use for a more aggressive approach. Those are readily available just about everywhere. I think it's hard to screw up chunks, most of the ones I've ever tried are nice and you only need two different styles.

So a neko rig... ?

Welcome!

I've heard of them being used for pretty much just about anything. Personally a mod-fast is what I like for spinnerbaits, chatterbaits and squarebills, though medium heavy is my choice for those applications instead of a heavy. I think a jig and chatterbait would do well ?

Anything from those sizes will be fine but to truly appeal to any species, I’d stay closer to the 2” side. An 1/8 jig would be fine but I don’t know how many you can find that will fit a 2” plastic. You will have to search for panfish/trout specific terminal tackle. For panfish, I like the Bobby Garland stuff, my favorite is the 2” slab slayer. I would ditch the bobber and tie directly to the jig. I use a gliding retrieve, where I turn the handle twice then let the bait fall, all while keeping the line tight.