Big Hands

^^ This ^^ You'll have plenty of time to obsess over line once you learn to adjust your reels and use them properly without birdnesting. Trilene Big Game has pretty good manners, and (unlike expensive line) won't hurt your feelings when you trash a spool of line.

I am only 65, but I have now reached that point where I am required to wear prescription glasses to legally operate a motor vehicle. I have been getting by with readers for far too long. One pair for reading, and a different pair for seeing things at a distance. I am thinking that I would like to get glasses that would serve me well (enough) at work (I am a teacher and do a fair amount of work at a computer), but also allow me to see better while I do thing things like, such as fishing, cycling, working on cars, and working at odd jobs around the house. I don't need the perfect glasses for computer work; good enough will be good enough for that task. My wish list would include: Progressive lenses Transition lenses Polarized Anti-Glare Durable Ability to order with longer temple arms I did a search here for "Prescription Glasses for Fishing" and it yielded "0" results. So, I would like to survey our members here on their experiences with prescription glasses, and how they relate to fishing.

Wow, the Kestrel Elite BFS is already tiny. I was mauling one at the shop last week. And, it is pretty light weight. Can you feel a weight difference between the Kestrel and the Hundo?

Also, it appears that they still do offer the Seth Feider 7'6 M-ML AGS version. It's just that the AGS versions are now listed in a separate section from the other Tatula Elite rods.

I like to put my hands on new/expensive gear at my LTS just to see and feel them for myself. Sometimes, I am relatively quick to set them back down. Sometimes that's because I immediately don't care for something about it. And sometimes, it's because it feels so good that I know it could ruin me for feeling OK about the gear I have. For example, I got the latter feeling when handling a Loomis NRX+ spinning rod. I also got that feeling when handling a Bates casting reel. I have some formulas I employ when making decisions about some things, and fishing reels are one such category. I think about criteria that are important to me such as: Weight Durability Performance Versatility Relevance Price Being that I am generally of the early majority type of consumer at best (sometimes late majority), and not usually an early adopter (for example, I have never stood in line to buy something, like an iPhone, when it is first released), I will be keeping an eye on the Bates reels before plunking down $300 to $400 for one (if I ever decide to spend that much on a fishing reel). Breaking it down, I currently view the Bates Hundo like this: Weight There is no doubt that the Hundo scores very highly in this category. My biggest curiosity being if the weight was saved at the expense of durability, performance, or versatility, and to what degree. Durability This is the biggest unknown for the Hundo. There is no substitute for it getting time tested by the masses to see how it holds up to all the different users and conditions that just don't always get accounted for in a lab or small sample sizes. Performance I have heard a lot of high praise for the Hundo so far, and maybe a smattering of issues (which is not unusual for even the most highly regarded reels). Versatility Some reels have a relatively narrow range of performance and durability where they excel, and it drops off quickly the farther you stray from their sweet spot. The claims I have read about the Hundo are that it has a relatively wide range where it performs really well. This may be a pro, and it may be a con, depending on an individual's needs. (For the sake of discussion, I will assume that the Hundo would be paired with a rod in the same general price category; I'll go with $350 here). For example, if I was a Kayak fisherman, the more versatile a combo is, that can cut down on the number of rods I need to carry in the limited storage capacity that kayaks offer. OTOH, if I am wanting to switch back and forth between a jig and a 7" Texas rig worm, and don't have storage constraints, having two combos that I spent a total of $375 on for both rod and reel, might be more advantageous. Specialty This is the other side of the versatility coin. If there is a certain type of fishing that I spend a lot of time doing, it could be worth investing more than for something I don't spend a lot of time doing. If the Hundo is as versatile (at a high level) as it is said to be, it might be a worthwhile purchase for some. Of course many if not most reels are advertised to be great for a wide variety of uses, so I would be my normal non early adopter self and take the wait and see approach when the price tag is $400. On a sub-$100 reel, I might be inclined to take a flyer. I'm not so inclined to take a flyer on a $400 reel, but that's just me and YMMV. Relevance Do I even care that I have a reel that offers what is being sold? Until I have a better idea of what the Hundo actually is, I have no way of knowing. Price This matters more to some than to others and is merely a personal preference for some with substantial discretionary funds, to being a very hard constraint for others with more limited resources. Thanks for posting your impressions, and I look forward to you checking in to report on your adventures with the Hundo as it (and other offerings from bates) is something I will be keeping an eye on.

The 7'6" hair jig rod with the AGS guide train was rated M-ML (the Seth Feider model) and sold for around $270. That rod is no longer listed on their website. Instead they have assigned Feider-man a 6'9" casting rod for jerkbaits. The new Chris Johnston Tatula Elite 7'6" hair jig spinning rod is the one the OP has and is a pretty recent offering. There is also a 'regular' Tatula 7'6" M-ML hair jig rod too.

The Explorer Gill weighs 2.5 oz. That isn't going to be fun on anything you've ;listed, not to mention it could damage a rod like the XH Expride (that would bring me to tears). Rods that won't break the bank that would be very appropriate for such baits would include (some have already mentioned some of these): 7'11" - Okuma Guide Select 7'9" - Irod 794SB 8'0" - Dobyns xx806SB (Fury or Champion) Something with a moderate bend. I know Dobyns claims the 806SB to be a fast action rod, but I respectfully disagree with that assessment. I wouldn't even classify them as Mod-Fast. I think they are more of a moderate action rod.

31 years ago when Castaic was in it's heyday, I was off work due to 1) being between jobs and 2) recovering from carpal tunnel (wrist) and tendonitis (elbow) surgery, and was fishing quite a bit because my friend would take me out in his boat. We were hanging out with and helping a local jointed plug maker who shall remain nameless because he couldn't produce them fast enough. We would also fish quite a bit, trolling said jointed plugs on lead core line because 1) I couldn't cast, and 2) it flat out worked. We had a five day midweek streak (in February no less!) where we caught a 10+ pound bass each day, along with several other five plus pounders trolling those jointed plugs. Of all the fish we caught trolling those jointed plugs, only one weighed less than five pounds (it weighed all of 1-1/4 lbs), and EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM were caught on the front hook.

I am referring to his spinning reels being the models I didn't recognize.

Carefully, and take your time. My first double digit bass (10 lbs 10 oz) was caught on a 5'10" rod that would probably be considered ML/F by todays standard with a Shimano TX Aero ULS-A (probably about a 1500 size reel at most, rated for 2-6 lbs monofilament - I used 6 lb Ande). This would be considered at least BFS-adjacent (what I call 'finesse' by local standards), if not outright BFS by today's standards. For several years, this rig outfished everything else I had until the reel gave up on me. So, while I wouldn't regularly fish somewhere like the Delta or the tules in Clear Lake with gear like that, I imagine there are many bodies of water where you are where you wouldn't automatically get your feelings hurt fishing with gear like that.

Not sure that all of his reels were Shimano. Some of them I figured were probably Favorite as they didn't appear to be anything I recognized ;~) Some of them were looking pretty beat up as I recall too. . . .

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I found that after casting and retrieving lightweight baits in a few times, the line would wind on kinda loosely. Then, I would get bit, set the hook and reel in a fish. Then, when I would go to cast again, I would find that the line had dug in. Do you find issues with line-dig with 8 lbs PP?

I wouldn't classify what I do as true BFS. I would say it's more like classic finesse fishing like we used to do more of with spinning rods. 7'4" Phenix Classic BFS w/Curado BFS: 7 lbs Daiwa Samurai Camo Fluorocarbon Very much enjoyed it throwing 2.5" Zman Crawz Texas rigged with a 1/8 oz tungsten worm weight. Also tossed live shad with a bobber with this rig and had a good tussle with a 4.5 pounder. It fights three pounders real well. That 4.5 was challenging near the reeds, and was no picnic next to the boat. Very sporting to say the least. That's the stuff I got it for though, so I have no complaints. I may try a different spool in the Curado BFS, or possibly a different reel. I have a 7'1" Phenix Feather ML/F, but it wasn't quite working for me, which may have been because I was using 15 lbs braid. I was all over the place trying to find a way to make it work. I may need to give it another shot at some point.

What kind of shape is your ex-buddy in?

Is the Duracell Group 31 AGM a deep cycle rather than an actual starting battery? I actually use just two Duracell Group 27 AM for my 24v trolling motor as well as tapping off of one for 12v to run my 40 hp outboard, so I am not against using deep cycles to start outboards, but mine is only a 40 horse. I did have a 19' Ranger BITD with only two 6v golf cart batteries to power everything including the 200 hp Merc and the 12v Mercury Thruster trolling motor. Just not sure what the requirements of a modern 250 hp outboard are.

That's the one I have and it is one of my favorite rods. I use it with a Curado 200K (with 15 lbs mono) for hard baits up to an ounce or a little more.

If there is a particular Daiwa rod that you want, I would call them directly and ask if they have any in their warehouse.

I'm about a year and a half away from retirement. One year, five months, and twenty days. . . . three hours, and ten minutes. Nine minutes now.

I have an extra fast action ML spinning rod that is one of my favorite rods. I had a extra fast action M spinning rod that I didn't care for at all. I think I know why. An extra fast ML rod will have that extra fast tip section, but will also have a little more bend that my 2000/2500 spinning reels with #10 braid to 7 lbs fluorocarbon leader plays very nicely with. It is so light in the tip that I can have a low-key tug of war and the bass don't seem to know I am there, but if has just enough backbone to set a hook yet it easily keeps hooked fish pinned. Whereas with the extra fast M spinning rod with that same #10 braid and 7 lbs fluorocarbon it only had the tip section working for me to keep a fish pinned. The rest of the rod just had too much backbone for that setup.

Yes, but you only have 10,000 lakes to choose from. That must be overwhelming, thus the reason for such a deep discount. And we do discount the cost of a license for low-income seniors (age 65+) to $9.53, but only if you can prove that there is no way you can afford to go fishing.

But wait, there's more: They said that it is but one of the many imaginative ways they are able to demonstrate love and respect for their constituents. And, we are currently able to do so between the hours of 7:00 am until 5:00 pm, but: If you aren't willing to get in line an hour before they open, it will take 30-45 minutes to get through the kiosk. You have to answer a list of questions, initial four check boxes, and sign your name. Your boat has to be on the trailer half an hour before they close the gate. It only costs $25 to launch and 'park' your vehicle each day. They call the fees 'launch' and 'park' because it is illegal for them to charge people to enter a county park. I do volunteer work and attend monthly meetings to be able to qualify for a lake pass, or I can pay $285 per year that will allow me to use the facility without paying. . . . except for holidays. . . then you still have to pay $25. I do like to 'fish vicariously' by hearing about all of the different waters my BR friends are able to access. Sorry for the sarcastic tone, but it's the only coping mechanism I have been able to use to temper my true sentiments.

One. My duly elected overlords and their faithful minions have determined that there are three bodies of water I could fish that would not require me to endure long quarantine periods (30 days), and one of those I don't particularly care for most of the time and still have to wait eight days before I can attempt to get inspected and then be able to fish my home water. . . . if I pass inspection at that time. The other one, I don't have to get inspected when I return, but I do have to wait eight days before I can launch my boat. So, unless I get an opportunity to fish with someone else in their boat, or travel to Texas to fish with a friend. . . . one it is.

If you buy the lifetime fishing license here, you can buy what they actually call a 'privilege package' that includes the second rod validation. This means that you can fish with a second rod at the same time as your original. For example, if you were anchored in one spot fishing for catfish, you could have two of your rods with the line out instead of one.