Big Hands

As much as I have tried. . . for decades. . . I'm hoping this will be the year, but I was hoping the same thing last year. And, as I did last year, I will go whatever direction the bass take me.

I turned 65 this year, so I am officially a senior citizen that is eligible for a $9.53 fishing license in California. . . . provided I can show proof that I live in abject poverty and couldn’t really afford to go fishing. Otherwise, I get to cough up $61.82 for the basic freshwater license with no additional ‘enhancements’ just like everyone else. I could spring for the lifetime license for the princely sum of $679.75 . . . . plus $459.25 for the “privilege package” which includes the second rod “privilege” as well as ocean fishing, salmon stickers and other such privileges. Total cost: $1,138.50 . . . Probably not gonna happen, LOL. $61.82 it shall be!

Be mindful that changing hooks and split rings can, and probably will, affect the buoyancy and the angle that the bait sits in the water. For a Vision 110, this is a big part of the baits performance. I'm not saying there is always only one way to make it work, rather to say that changes are likely to alter the way it acts and you may, or may not, want to do that.

I suppose I haven't hid the fact that I love fishing soft plastics and that Keitech and Yamamoto are at the top of my of my favorite plastics to fish with. So, someone did their homework. Not only have I not fished any of these particular variations, I haven't even seen them before. And I am FIRED UP to get these out and see what turns up. They are all super cool and great colors, and that 10" Oki (floating) worm. . . . has night fishing written all over it. Not sure who my secret Santa is, but thank you!

For me, it's automatic and unconscious for me to flip the bail by hand prior to retrieving. So much so that I had to go fishing and pay attention to it to realize I was actually doing it, LOL. _____________________________ As for backreeling, it's not my style. There's plenty of ways to deal with a bait wound against the tip, and for me, that's way down the list for reasons I would care about a switch. But since everyone doesn't have to do it exactly like I do, I'm happy those that care about it still have options. It's also fine with me that some reels don't include it as it does add cost, complexity and another weather/water sealing challenge to the equation. No sense in everyone paying for that if they don't need or want it. Kind of like having an ashtray and a cigarette lighter in a car.

. . . . Feeling like the one that got their food brought to them first at the restaurant. Imma wait until they bring more food to the table. Anticipation is not overrated.

Just dropped it off, so it's currently "in transit!" More than likely sitting in a bin, resting up for the long journey ahead.

Looks like there might be hurt feelings being exchanged here, LOL.

Last year was a fun year for fishing once it got rolling. I don't remember having specific goals last year, but if I had goals, they weren't likely realized. The techniques, baits, and spots I thought were going to be happening for me simply didn't turn out that way. Techniques, baits, and spots I didn't see coming were the highlight of my year. In those respects, last year was completely upside down for me. My takeaway is that maybe my goals should be a bit more subjective: be curious be aware go with what appears before me not be afraid to get skunked be patient appreciate that I am blessed to spend time on the water have fun be safe I now also have one that is more likely to meet the criteria of being a SMART goal in that it would be specific, measurable, attainable, relevant and time bound: I believe we can make that happen. Is it "pre-spawn" yet?

My shopping is done. Staring at it as I type.

I have the 7'4" Tatula Elite TAEL741MHRB "Big Topwater, Spinnerbait, Bladed Jig" rod (not the TAEL741MHRB-G version, but it is a mod-fast-ish action they call "reaction"). It's rated for 1/4 to 1-3/8 oz baits and I use it for reaction baits like a Zara Spook, Sammy, 5/0 Flashy Swimmer (with a 4.8" Keitech Fat Swing Impact), Megabass Pop-Max, 117 Gunfish, 90-110-130 Whopper Plopper, S-Waver 120, single & twin prop buzzbaits, LV500/Rat-L-Traps, etc. with a Curado 200K loaded with 15 lbs mono. I can really pour the coal to it and reach out there to far away targets. It does a great job for bass and stripers, especially when you want to lean into them and has become one of the rods I usually have with me no matter what I will be doing because I always want to be able to throw a reaction bait when the opportunity presents itself. I tried other reels on it including a Tatula SV TW and others, but the Curado 200K seems perfect for it of all the reels I have tried on it. Looks like Daiwa recently overhauled their website and they no longer have it listed there. It used to be in the Randy Howell Tatula Elite lineup. It's not a rod I would choose to throw smaller baits with, such as it wouldn't be my first choice for a 3/8 oz spinnerbait, smaller chatterbait, or a Zara Puppy. I see them selling for $120 with free shipping.

The Tatula 300 is a beast of a freshwater reel. I have a Tatula 300P (a real stump puller at 5.3:1 and 28.7 lbs drag) and a couple of Tatula 200's. The Tatula 200 is plenty beefy for what you're describing. A Shimano Curado 300 is like the between size of a Tatula 300 and a Tatula 200, and the Curado 200 is smaller than the Tatula 200. As for the drag, the Tatula 300 will absolutely take the Curado 300's lunch money. Same with the Tatula 200 vs the Curado 200.

Me: Sorry. Mama tried.

I had been putting hands on a variety of rods for months and by itself, there was something about that Whipsnake that spoke to me. One day, I went in to the local tackle shop thinking I was going to walk out with an Orochi XX Whipsnake. I had handled the rod by itself and thought it felt great. I brought a Fuego LT 2000S-XH (JDM) with me to assess the balance of the rod and reel together just to make certain I would like it. The funny thing was that once I put a reel on it, the balance didn't feel like I anticipated that it would. It felt tip heavy to me, which is weird given that it is what I would describe as a ML power fast action rod. I spent the next hour and a half trying several rods with my reel and others they had in stock. Lots of them from Phenix, St. Croix, Shimano, Dobyns, Daiwa and Loomis. To make a long story slightly less long (or will I. . .), I walked out with a Zodias 7' ML/F and a new Tatula LT 2000D-XH. I liked the Expride and a Loomis NRX a little better than the Zodias, but I was already pushing the limits of my budget dreaming about the Whipsnake (the Expride was (is) really nice, but I liked the Zodias nearly as much). The Loomis was next level, and I would not have regretted the fishing part of owning one, but I wasn't handling the $550 price tag very well. My Light action spinning rod is an 7' Expride (I bought used for $200) and I really like it. The Whipsnake is listed at 6'11" and the Zodias I bought is listed as a 7' rod, but from the reel seat forward, the Zodias is about the same length as the Whipsnake. This means the the Whipsnake has a shorter butt section than the Zodias, and I think this is at least partially why I didn't care for the balance of the Whipsnake. I don't think a L, ML or M spinning rod ever needs to feel tip heavy, and the Whipsnake did for me. There are too many other great choices out there IMHO. If they would. It took me a bit to adjust to the EVA grip as I generally prefer cork. I even considered selling it for that reason alone. But I have made my piece with the EVA grip section, and it has become one of my favorite rods to use for a variety of techniques. I always have 10 lb braid to fluoro leader on it and it has caught several nice fish for me. I'm not necessarily suggesting you buy a Zodias, but it sounds like it could make your short list given the criteria you list. What I do suggest though is to take try the reel (or one like it) on the rod and make sure that there aren't any deal-breakers that surface. Another time I also came across a spinning rod I bought that would not hold a reel foot securely. It had a proprietary reel seat. I really liked the rod other than that. That company makes an almost otherwise identical rod with a Fuji reel seat that I traded for and I no longer have the squirmy reel seat issue to deal with. Those two things serve as good examples of why I mount a reel on any rod I'm considering (especially relatively expensive rods) so that I can catch those issues before I plunk down my money. We all have our own somewhat unique things we like or we don't like.

Among other things: I learned that swimbait rods are a whole category unto themselves. I learned that the perfect Senko rod is different for different anglers. I learned a new phrase: "repertoire of confusion", and I like it. I have interpreted it to possibly be synonymous with 'system', only describing some systems more accurately. I learned that the thought of portaging a canoe through a forest at 3:00 am to fish bodies of water that might not even have a proper name intrigues me. A lot.

I have three rods that could be used for this purpose: 7'11" 8' 8'6" I wouldn't want to throw with less than the 7'11" for the relatively open waters I fish in, but your environment might be different. The 8'6" will sling a 1.5 oz soft swimbait a country mile and is appropriate for fishing a single hook soft swimbait IMHO. It's too . . . . 'studly' for treble hook baits unless they were very big and sturdy trebles. What's odd to me is that the 8' rod I have is a Dobyns 806 that's rated for 2-8 oz. It's a wimp compared to the 8'6" SB rod I have (unrated for lure weight for some reason) that I wouldn't throw more than 5 oz with. The Dobyns 806 is good for about 3 oz IMHO and not much more; a good all-rounder if I want to stay in it's wheelhouse. There you go; clear as mud, although I will say that for swimbaits, I would prefer to stay in the 8' range plus or minus just a little. For me, I wouldn't want a 7'6" swimbait rod. YMMV.

Alrighty then. . . I'm in!

Congrats on the new boat. I'd concentrate on the maintenance items first. The steering cables can go from bad to worse very quickly, so that would be the first thing on my list. ======================== Uncle Big Head here has some suggestions for you, many of which are from experiences I have had or witnessed others having. Sounds like you may already have a fair amount of boating experience, but it looks like you might also be ready to go out on your own soon. If you already know this stuff, just call me 'boomer' and go on with your day. OK, off we go: Create a document that covers your game day routine from start to finish. This includes having a policy and rules for anyone that sets a foot in your boat. They need to know that you are the captain, and they may need to be relied on to do certain things and follow your instructions in an emergency. Have a friendly chat to go over these things before you get on with your day. Never forget to check that the plug is in the correct hole at the back of the boat right before you back the boat into the water. Keep the document loaded onto your phone. There is a LOT of comedy and tragedy that takes place at launch ramp. Don't expect others to know much, or anything at all about how things should be done and every boat and ramp could have something unique about them. Feelings can get hurt in a few seconds and that could ruin the rest of your day, if not far beyond that. Preparation, discipline, composure and grace are your friend and will serve you well at the ramp and in the marina. Somebody else may need a brief hand or assistance too. REMEMBER THIS FOR THE REST OF YOUR BOATING LIFE: It is super easy to get distracted at any point, and that is when your day gets bad in a hurry. ======================== I'd repack the wheel bearings, adjust them properly, and get them covered if the caps are missing. Replace the impeller in the outboard so you know it's going to be reliable. It's not very difficult to do it yourself if you have any mechanical experience. Check out the trailer wiring, plug, lube the jack, give the winch and it's strap a good looking over, and put some grease up in the coupler. Make sure the safety chains are going to do their job correctly as currently configured. Buy a spare plug and put it in the glove box. Also, a #2 Phillip's screwdriver, a crescent wrench, regular slip joint pliers, a small pair of locking jaw pliers, pliers, a roll of electrical tape, a utility knife, and a small can of WD-40 or other lubricant. Buy a spare nut, washer, and pin that fits your trolling motor and your outboard, and make sure you have the tools to remove and replace both the trolling motor prop and the prop on the outboard. ALWAYS have a spare key for the boat ignition with you (don't ask how I know that one). Make sure your documentation is up to date and kept on board. Know the rules for life jackets and personal floatation devices. Make sure your kill switch game is on point. Keep a spare for any parts that are needed for the kill switch system to work properly. That can leave you stranded if you don't. Make sure you know how to avoid flooding your motor, and what to do if it happens so you can recover quickly. A battery booster/jumper is an excellent thing to have if your battery ever suddenly won't start your big motor. Make sure all of the screws/bolts that hold the seat pedestals are tight. Make sure the screws that hold the seat to the pedestal base are tight. Make sure there are extra fuses in the glove box (at least two of each type). Clean any corrosion off of your battery posts if there is any. Always bring one more layer of clothing than you think you'll need. Make sure your cleats and dock lines are set up to work well and quickly. Depending on the facility you use an set of fenders could be helpful. I recommend an anchor that will be effective for the waters you use. I like a section of chain just above the anchor as it acts as a bit of a shock absorber that will help you stay in place when things get ugly. I like to have a gallon jug with a built in handle on board. I sometimes use it as a float for an anchor line if I need/want to leave my position briefly so I can avoid having to pull the anchor in if I need to un-snag my line or whatever else comes up. It doubles as an emergency 'container' for those of us with external plumbing fixtures that were raised by savages. Pro Tip: Never drink from any gallon jug on my boat. Stow an extra hat and sunglasses in your boat for those times you forget them at home (you will). Make sure your fire extinguisher is up to date and correctly mounted. A throwable cushion, a paddle, and a whistle may be required equipment and you could get turned away if you don't have all of your safety equipment. Keep a bow and stern light in your tow vehicle or stowed in your boat (it could be required to launch on a foggy day). With winter coming on, make sure you can get back into your boat (if you fall overboard) in heavy winter clothes if you'll be boating then. A swim step on the back could save your life. Then go after that carpet, and take care of the gel coat. Make sure the bunks on the trailer are sound and well covered. Get it all fluffed up and looking good. A lot of this stuff is going to take more labor than money, but it's all important to protect your investment and to make sure your craft is reliable. As you do these things, that is often how you discover other potential issues. For backing up the trailer: Put the tailgate down on a truck (unless it will interfere with the mast on the trailer). If you have an SUV, open the window and put the tailgate down, especially when the trailer is empty as you are retrieving the boat after using it. Put your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel. Small corrections early are much better than larger corrections after it really gets wonky. As you are backing up, move your hand (that's at the 6 o'clock position) toward the side you want the trailer to go to. Boats are notorious for not working at the most inopportune times, but you can greatly reduce those occurrences with regular upkeep. Be safe and have a ball.

Literally, word for word what I scrolled down to write. I have been out on Lake Mead in both sizes. The difference between an 18' bass boat and a 19' bass boat in rough water is significant in my personal experience.

How does a boat like this located in New York for $6,000 sound? 2005 Skeeter 180 2005 Yamaha 130Hp 2 stroke ( max ) Minn Kota bow mount trolling motor 3 brand new battery’s 2 fish finders 2 rod lockers Tons of storage compartments 2 live wells Seats are in amazing shape Carpet is in amazing shape Boat is ready to go Just serviced at Lime Lake marina last month Boat’s mint and ready to fish right now Personally I think it sounds like a pretty good deal. Pics look like it has been garaged. Let me know if you want a link.

I caught my first double digit on 6 lbs Ande monofilament on a spinning rod that would probably be considered M-ML. My rig of choice was a 4" Roboworm paddle tail on a Gary Klein Weapon hook, 6 lbs mono, a Mojo slip sinker with a small piece of natural rubber band double knotted around my line as a sinker stop with about 24" to 30" between the sliding sinker and the hook. Basically an ultralight Carolina rig. I tried 4 lbs and 8 lbs monofilament for split shot and slip shot. My PB (just two ounces shy of 13 lbs) was caught on 10 lbs Ande monofilament. Other I have caught were on heavier line and rods. I considered 10 lbs monofilament to 'heavy line'. I did finally get a 6'6" Fenwick trigger grip straight handle and it was wonderful to fish with. Pistol grips were the rage (5'6" to 6', LOL) and I kept hoping that somebody would wake up and ditch the pistol in favor of what is still in favor today, the straight handle trigger grip casting rod.

Hi Daniel, welcome to the site. I have several Phenix rods, along with rods from Daiwa, Shimano, Dobyns and one St. Croix spinning rod. I went on a vision quest for the perfect Senko rod a couple years back. Specifically one that would excel at throwing weightless wacky 5" Senkos, mostly in the #297 color (not that the color impacts the performance of the rod in any way, LOL). I was throwing w/w 5" Senkos more than everything else combined, so I felt it was worth it to find a combo that really performed well. At the end of that journey, the biggest takeaway for me was to realize that the perfect Senko rod for everyone simply doesn't exist. There are so many ways and environments to fish a w/w Senko in, and I would just say that I would like to hear more about the conditions you fish in before I would offer a suggestion. If you fished in similar conditions as I do, I would happily tell you what I have found. The fact that you're considering a light power rod tells me that you might be.

I occasionally re-shuffle the deck so to speak. In between those times, I will swap around here and there. Once I find a combo that is 'magic', I try to leave those alone.

R.I.P. Bob Crupi I ran into him once BITD at the Turner's Outdoorsman (local hunting/fishing chain here in SoCal) in the San Fernando Valley and chatted with him for a little bit. He was nice enough to talk to me for a bit. I have seen that he had been selling (maybe breeding) pythons for sale and had ads up on a python website. @Team9nine you've been to the Mobile Mini Mart back when it was the Mobile Mini Mart? 🤘 Excellent! @WRB showed me the spot earlier this year where Bob landed his history making behemoth. I had mistakenly thought it was on the other side of the cove, but it turns out it was the exact same point I caught my own PB on in 1993. Those were the days!