Bankc

Knife. Hold the tag end and knot in one hand and slide the knife through the loop between the two. Even a fairly dull knife will cut braid well. Scissors only tend to work when sharp, and they're a lot more difficult to sharpen. Especially small ones.

One more hypothetical to add to your hypothetical... what are you gonna do at night with it? Because if I was going across the country with one, I'd be weary of someone stealing it. If you're camping in a tent, then it's probably safe, as could hear someone trying to steal it. If you stay in cheap motels, you could probably take it down and drag it inside, assuming you request ground floor rooms. If not, I'd be afraid to leave it out overnight. Unlike a real boat, which still do get stolen, a kayak is a high value item that's not hard to steal and resell. As for transportation, do it however way you want. Other than time, it's little difference going 3 miles or 3,000 miles, assuming you travel the same speed.

You did everything right but trying to get them to touch a catfish. Those things are gross! And it was a good idea to leave when you did. Finish on a high note and leave them wanting more!

Plus it lets the other bass know you mean business.

Unless medical science makes some significant breakthroughs in human longevity, I won't be. All braid over here.

None. To be a collectible, it has to be both rare and desirable. Everything made today is made in too great of numbers and won't be desirable in the future. Technology will progress and make these current reels obsolete as users. There will still be too many of them on the used market to make them rare. And none of them represent any significant milestones in the sport. The old stuff that people collect today will still be collectible, because they never were made in great numbers, and show the evolution of the sport. They'll still be what collectors want. Now I say that, but if you had one of KVD's personal reels that he used to win the 2001 Bassmaster classic or something like that, then that would be very desirable and rare and increase in value over time. That's the kind of thing collectors of the future would go for. But as far as the regular fishing gear we all use, their value is going to continually be suppressed by the ever-increasing dump of newer reels onto the used market. Even the high end and special edition reels of today will be replaced with more high end and special edition reels in the future. Too much supply for too little demand.

One rod. I can do anything I need with either a M/F or MH/F. Some baits might be out of the question, but I can still catch the same fish with other presentations that will work with that rod. In fact, it's not at all unusual for me to go out fishing with just one rod. It makes me a better angler, focusing on how to get the most out of what I have instead of focusing on all of my options. Same with kitchen knives. Give me good chef's knife and can prepare most anything. It's not ideal for all situations, but I have 4 chef's knives for a reason, because they can do it all (and it keeps me from having to clean a knife mid prep to prevent cross contamination). I've also got a bunch of specialty knives, but they get used to make the job easier. They're not required to get the job done.

You never know until you try. Unless it's black and blue. Then you know it's gonna work because black and blue always works.

The worlds full of jerks. A lot of these jerks think they're being funny and believe you'll find them funny too when they pick on you like the two of you are best friends. They don't understand that you have to earn that type of relationship. When I run into someone like this, the best thing I've figured is to correct them the first time they say something like that with something like "well, that unnecessarily rude, wasn't it?". Don't get defensive and don't try to hurt their feelings back. Just let them know that they crossed a line and then move on like nothing happened. Let them know the boundaries, but let them make mistakes. Most people learn pretty quick what not to do. And if you forgive and forget immediately, they usually don't take it too hard. As for performance anxiety, well I have been the lead singer/guitarist in several bands, so I know a bit about that. I can say to just relax, but truth be told, that's easier said than done. Still, it's the best advice. Not relaxing is what causes those mistakes. What I always did is anticipate that first big mistake. Know it'll happen in advance, because it always does, and it's never as big of a deal as it seems at the time it happens. Look forward to it. Know that it won't ruin the day. And when it happens, just say to yourself something like "well, I figure this would happen. Now that I've gotten that out of the way, it's time to catch some fish". Acknowledge the mistake, find relief in it, and quickly move on. Usually, after my first big mistake, I could relax and play out the rest of the show without too much trouble. It's before that first big mistake is when I'm most nervous, because I know it's still out there, waiting.

Oxyclean or hydrogen peroxide. Both work the same way and are great for organic stains like blood. Also, and this is VERY important, wash in cold water. Hot water will set the stain and make it permanent. Blood needs to be washed in cold water. Also, don't throw it into the dryer until you've examined the stain and determined it has been completely removed. Again, the heat from the dryer will make the stain permanent. If it didn't come out after the first wash, treat it again, let it soak and give it another cold-water wash. Hydrogen peroxide and Oxyclean (dissolved in water) will foam up on contact with blood. So they're also good for finding blood stains you might have missed.

I have a kayak, but still do a lot of bank fishing. For me, the biggest difference is the direction you're pulling your lure (towards the bank instead of away from the bank), and how thoroughly you fish a spot. Other than that, they're not much different. With bank fishing, you're limited in what you can reach. So you often have to find a good spot and work it a lot longer. I also take less tackle and tend to focus on variations on my retrieve more, and less on switching presentations. That reduces the amount of gear I have to haul with me. But in also increases your focus and slows you down. On tough fishing days, I tend to do better from the bank. I slow down and focus longer on high percentage areas. In a boat, there's always the alure of a better spot somewhere else. From the bank, and with the thick brush that grows around our lakes, you're usually pretty limited in where you can fish, so you make the most of what you have. I find it's a lot easier to avoid the skunk from the bank. But it's also a lot harder to have a really good day, as you'll often wear out the best spots and letting them rest isn't as easy. And if there are a lot of other bank anglers around, it makes that even worse. Also, from the bank I almost exclusively fish a T-rig, shaky head, jig or topwater. Anything weedless, as weeds are usually a bigger problem from the bank for me. It's harder to get free if you can't get directly over your hangup.

My doctor is WebMD, a bottle of aspirin, jar of Pepto, and a tube of super glue. I don't know if he fishes. I never thought to ask.

I carry six combos with me in my kayak and take full blame for not catching enough fish. If I can't catch fish with those six options, it's not because I don't have enough gear. I get why pros would need a bunch. If your livelihood depends on it, it makes more sense to perfect everything down to the tiniest nuance. And you're probably getting all of that stuff for free or even being paid to use it. For them, a single missed fish over the course of a year could make a huge difference in their income. But for people like me, too much gear focuses your attention on your gear instead of on the fish where your attention belongs. They call it "good enough" for a reason.

Good. Then you won't need a "dual use" battery. A regular deep cycle will be fine. And even if you drain it all of the way, you won't be stranded. What kind of trolling motor do you have? Does it have stepped speed settings (like 5 forward and 3 reverse) or is it infinitely variable? If it has stepped speed settings, then it should be fine with the sonar. If not, then it might cause issues. But not every sonar and trolling motor have problems working off the same battery. Typically, if it does, the easiest solution is to hook up your sonar to a second battery. You can buy a cheap 7-12Ah 12v AGM battery for just the sonar. Unless you're using a particularly large and fancy sonar unit, they typically just pull around 1 amp, so a 7-12Ah battery will last you 7-12 hours. You might wear it out faster by draining it down all of the way so often (you're not supposed to drain a lead acid style batter below 50% capacity), but they're cheap enough that it won't matter. And the smaller, lighter ones are much easier to carry. Also, check out the lithium batteries they out now. Lighter, more power, and last longer. They're more expensive, but it could be worth it for you.

What size mainline are you using? I've never had issues with the FG and thinner leaders. But my braided mainline is always a smaller diameter than my leader. For instance, if I'm fishing a 10# leader, I won't use more than a 30# braid. And if I'm fishing a 6# leader, I'll use a 10# braid. I'll use the double uni when I'm in a hurry. But I don't trust it as much as I trust the FG and it's not as small of a knot. But it's a lot easier to tie if you're in a hurry and it holds well enough for most occasions, so it's a suitable alternative for me. Generally, I'll tie my leaders at home using the FG and leave about 10-12 feet of leader, so I have plenty of room to retie the next time I'm out on the water. The FG isn't a difficult knot to tie, but it does take a while and it's pretty cumbersome. I definitely don't like trying to tie an FG in my kayak if the winds are up.

Black at night (pretty much the only topwater I throw at night is a black jitterbug). Chrome or transparent when bright, high sun. White or orange any other time. And I don't even care about the color of the rest of the lure, just the belly, since that's all the fish really see. And to be honest, I don't even stick to those "rules" all that well. For me, it's more about pace, action, sound, and location than bait color.

You never know until you try. I'm sure there are days when that'll do better than a TRD. And other days where you'd be better off with a TRD. Like MediumMouthBass, I too have often been able stave off the skunk with crappie jigs while fishing for bass. You won't likely catch a giant doing that, and the hooks are small enough to be a problem sometimes, but some days that all that seems to work for me. And I wouldn't worry too much about trying to closely match their forage. Bass are opportunistic predators, and they'll often eat things because it looks like nothing they've ever seen before. I've got a ton of lures that look nothing like their natural forage, but they eat them anyway if you put the right action on them.

In my experience, a second change in the weather will often tell you when the bite comes back after a cold front in the summer. Once the cold front passes through, the bite usually shuts off here until there's a change in cloud cover, temperatures rise back up, or the wind changes direction. Often times, this is usually around the third day or so.

Maybe. The only way to know for sure is to try. For the lakes I fish, it's not so cut and dry. We tend to get a lot of stiff winds, and if the wind and current get strong enough, it'll keep the fish off those areas. They'll spend too much energy fighting the winds and current to justify any enhanced feeding opportunities. And the baitfish will just avoid the areas, as they're completely exposed and not strong enough to fight the current. They tend to be good spots for large schools of white bass, which will push baitfish into those areas, but largemouth don't hunt in coordinated schools as much. And even the white bass won't stay in an exposed area long. They'll usually just push a school of baitfish into an area, feed off them for a bit, and then the baitfish will work free of the area and the white bass will follow. So often times, I find that protected areas like coves near windblown banks are the better option. However, it depends on the lake and the wind strength and direction. I tend to look for areas that the current will funnel bait fish into, and then look for the safest areas just off that for LMB. Stuff like coves, the backside of a point, or even a channel deep enough to not be so affected by the wind can all be productive. And if the wind isn't too strong, sometimes the windblown banks can be good as well. So it's definitely a factor to consider. But it can work against you just as easily as it can work for you. And it can change from day to day depending on conditions.

Or do what I did. Put some PVC pipes of appropriate width into each rod holder and span a 1x4 board between them and attach it to the pipes with U-bolts and wing nuts. This way you can remove it without tools, since the original rod holders are angled, you won't be able to pull it out otherwise. Then, attach some 1-1/4" PVC pipes cut to an appropriate length and place them at spaced intervals along the board and attach them with U-bolts and regular nuts (these won't need to come off). That way you can carry more rods, put them upright (which lessens the chance of one getting snagged), and the 1-1/4" PVC pipe is just about perfect for a snug fit so your rods won't fall out by accident. Some rods with wider handles may need a 1-1/2" PVC pipe.

I do this a lot. It really helps you to focus in on what you're doing and makes you learn new techniques faster. It's also good for honing old techniques. The only real downside is you get too focused on the technical side of fishing and lose sight of the fun aspect. Once it loses it's fun, it becomes work and you burn out. So long as you're not "making yourself do it" and instead having fun indulging your curiosity, I say go for it! Just remember to enjoy the act of fishing.

I use crankbaits all of the time in dirty water. It's my go-to presentation. I'll often try to fish them above the weeds or around the edges. I've never had much luck with lipless crankbaits. And while I'll agree that crankbaits work best when bouncing against stuff, you can certainly fish them when they're not bouncing against anything. I mean, people troll with them doing this all of the time and catch fish. And I'll set up over a point or something and do this. Sometimes it helps to have an erratic retrieve. Just like a fraction of a second pause here or there, or a quick rod pop while retrieving. Honestly, I like uncomfortably small reel handles for this, as it kind of naturally keeps you from making a steady retrieve. Sometimes a steady retrieve works fine too. I'll often cast a deep diver out, reel it fast to get it to depth, and then reel it as slow as I can while still feeling the rod tip vibrate. Those aren't the best techniques, but they're techniques that work for me.

I use tungsten for anything over 1/4 oz. We're allowed to use lead here, and I rarely lose a Texas rigged worm, so the environmental impact doesn't worry me. As for when to use what weight? Well that just depends on a whole host of factors. How far do I need to cast? How much wind and/or current is there? How deep is the water? How active are the fish? What's the bottom composition? Though I probably use either a 1/4 or 3/8 for most of my fishing. It gives me enough weight for a far cast, fights the wind, and gets down to 10 feet of water pretty quickly, which is where I'm usually fishing with a T-rig. Plus, it's usually heavy enough to not get swept away in the current. I rarely use a 1/16, as I'll usually just go weightless at that point. Sometimes I'll use a 1/2 if I need more distance or am fighting denser weeds. But I typically only use a 3/4 or 1oz. for punching. And really, if I'm looking for a slower rate of fall, I'll usually just unpeg the weight.

No. I work for a small company, and if I take off, they'll call me constantly with problems they want me to walk them through. Plus, they don't really let us have days off outside of two weeks of vacation (which I can't take all at once). And I have to save some of those vacation days for if I get sick. Because I can get fired for calling in sick if I don't have any vacation days left. Also, no rollover on unused vacation days, so I often take some time off the last week of the year. Use it or lose it. I've never had a job where you could play hookie. I mean, you might be able to get away with it once or twice a year, but usually if you call in sick more than a few times a year, they start demanding you bring a doctor's note. The idea being, if you're well enough that you don't need to see a doctor, then you're well enough to work through it. After having more than 20 jobs in my life, I kind of thought this was normal. It's pretty much been the same at every one of those jobs. Now I'm thinking, maybe it's a regional thing.

I'll be nice, but not friendly. I don't usually start conversations and don't care to listen to what other people have to tell me. But I'll do the polite thing and hear them out anyway. Mostly because I don't trust anything anyone says. It seems like everyone at the dock is a pro angler but me. Though, to be fair I've had a few moments where I caught fish that made unbelievable stories. Like the time I caught a 14lb drum in a lake that doesn't have drums.